France is such a beautifully diverse country, I want to make sure you see and taste the best it has […]

  • 1
  • September 22, 2016
Fennel Soup with Lime and Cashew Cream

Would you believe this recipe for fennel soup with lime stems from my once entering a giveaway for a three-day […]

  • 20
  • September 13, 2016
Oven-Roasted Ratatouille

I pulled the produce drawer of my fridge open, and realized with delight that I had everything I needed to […]

  • 37
  • September 6, 2016
Laguiole Pocket Knife

All right, I’m back! Technically, I have been back from my vacation for ten days, but as soon as I […]

  • 57
  • Favorite
  • September 17, 2007
Elbow Macaroni with Comté Cheese and Baby Spinach

Coquillettes au Comté et Pousses d’Epinard A lot can be learned about your cooking self by considering what you eat […]

  • 63
  • Favorite
  • September 4, 2007
Soy Sauce Roasted Cashews

I love the bulk section at my local organic store. I love that it allows me to cut down on […]

  • 22
  • Favorite
  • September 24, 2014

Best Eats in Lyon, From a Local

France is such a beautifully diverse country, I want to make sure you see and taste the best it has to offer! When it comes to Paris I’ve got you covered, but there are many other cities with exciting and delicious things for you to experience. So I’ve asked a team of French bloggers from different cities to share their favorite spots, and I am offering them to you in this series.

QuentinIn Lyon, Quentin recommends…

Our guide to Lyon is Quentin Caillot. A lover of food and travel, Quentin created the blog Geek and Food, which focuses on culinary trends, dining recommendations, and urban agriculture. He is also the co-founder of a communication and culinary creation agency, and the first culinary coworking space in Lyon, La Food Factory.

A market or food shop: Bahadourian

The Bahadourian location in Les Halles de Lyon-Paul Bocuse

The Bahadourian location in Les Halles de Lyon-Paul Bocuse

I could certainly send you to the Halles de Lyon-Paul Bocuse, but this gastronomy mecca is already well covered by guides. Instead, I recommend you visit the long-established spice shop Bahadourian, in the Guillotière neighborhood. It’s a paradise for lovers of spices, herbs, Asian flavors and world cuisines. (20 Rue Villeroy, 69003 Lyon.)

Where to go for sweet eats: [Goûter] par Sébastien Bouillet

Gouter

Sébastien Bouillet is an internationally celebrated pastry chef, star of the macaron from Lyon to Tokyo. He is Lyon’s best-loved pastry chef and he recently opened a new store dedicated to the most important time of the day: le goûter!* There you can find some of the chef’s best-sellers, as well as recent creations. (16 place de la Croix-Rousse, 69004 Lyon.)

Where to get tea or coffee: Slake Coffee House

Slake Coffee

Looking for excellent fresh coffee? Right this way! Slake Coffee also offers excellent snacks. The menu may list banana bread, carrot cake, cheesecake, and various pastries and sandwiches depending on the team’s inspiration that day. They all have one thing in common: they’re tasty, fresh, and homemade, with natural ingredients. (9 rue de l’Ancienne Préfecture, 69002 Lyon.)

A fun restaurant for dinner with friends: Shack BBQ

Shack BBQ

If you and your friends are hungry as horses, and you’re in the mood for American food, I recommend Shack. They serve a New Orleans-inspired cuisine and really good IPAs [India Pale Ales]. I love the pulled pork burger. (4 rue Terme, 69001 Lyon.)

Or… a Lyonnais bouchon: Daniel et Denise

Daniel et Denise

If you’re looking more for a more traditional bouchon but you’re understandably worried about tourist traps, head over to one of the three Daniel et Denise restaurants in Lyon. They are run by Joseph Viola, a Meilleur Ouvrier de France** class of 2004, and you’re guaranteed to experience fresh, masterfully created Lyonnais dishes of highest quality.

Where to go for an intimate dinner with a date: Les Apothicaires

Les Apothicaires

Not only is Les Apothicaires the it-restaurant in Lyon right now, it is a great spot for non-stuffy gastronomy. If you’re not too keen on pretentious restaurants and uptight servers, this one’s for you! Created by Tabata Bonardi, who was a contestant on the French Top Chef in 2012, and her husband Ludovic Mey, Les Apothicaires will provide a memorable dinner in a warm and elegant setting. (23 rue de Sèze, 69006 Lyon.)

Wild card spot: Café Gadagne

The Gadagne Museum is part of an architectural ensemble that’s a UNESCO World Heritage site, and is home to Lyon’s Museum of History as well as a museum of world puppets. What few people know is that it also houses a restaurant on its top floor.

Café Gadagne is accessible to everyone, not just visitors of the museum, and the terrace always makes an impression. The quality of the cuisine varies depending on the guest chef, but I just love the charm of this hidden and romantic spot, right at the heart of the Old Lyon neighborhood. The ideal location for a first date or a dinner for two! (1 Place du Petit Collège, 69005 Lyon.)

Thanks so much for sharing, Quentin!

Want to read more about Lyon? Read what my assistant Anne had to say about her visits here and here! (This and the main photo are from her blog.)

You’ll find all of Quentin’s recommendations mapped out below. Do you have your own favorite spots in Lyon? We want to hear about them in the comments below! And is there a particular city or area you’d featured in this series in the future?

* “Le goûter” is the quintessentially French afternoon snack. More about it here.

** Meilleur Ouvrier de France (MOF) is a designation awarded to the best crafts(wo)men in the country after an exacting series of tests and examinations. It is from MOFs that you can get some of the best artisanal products in the country.

Flammekueche (Alsatian Pizza)

Flammekueche (Alsatian Pizza)

When we get to spend time at my parents’ vacation house in the Vosges, a mountain range in the Northeast of France, one of our favorite daytrips is to drive over to Colmar, a historic Alsatian town on the other side of the mountain.

We’ve been going for as long as my parents have had the house, a little over twenty years, and though Colmar is as gorgeous as Alsatian towns get (i.e. very), with paved streets, pretty canals, and amazing architecture, the capital-D Draw for me is the flammekueche we get for lunch.

Also known as tarte flambée, the flammekueche (pronounced flam-küsh*) can be described as the Alsatian pizza: a super thin round of dough topped with cream, finely sliced onions, bacon strips, and sometimes mushrooms (la forestière) and cheese (la gratinée), baked in a woodfire oven until the edges are golden brown and crisp.

Sitting at one of the outdoor tables outside our favorite restaurant in Colmar, we make conversation as we wait for our tartes flambées to arrive, and our collective joy vibrates through the air as the waitstaff brings them out, all hot and fragrant, on wooden boards.

Continue reading »

Christine Ferber Jams

Christine Ferber Jams

Over the summer, Maxence and I spent a few blissful, brightly sunny days hiding out in my parents’ vacation house in the Vosges mountains. One day, we took a day trip to Alsace, the region just on the other side of the mountain famous for its wines, its storks, and little houses with pointy roofs and exposed beams.

We went on a pilgrimage to Niedermorschwihr, the Alsacian village where Christine Ferber, whom I’ve mentioned before, officiates. This is where the Jam Fairy makes the best French jams, and this is where she sells them, in a little bakery named Au Relais des Trois Epis.

I had been dying to go there ever since I learned about it, and grew increasingly excited as we neared the village. We parked on the tiny church square, got out of the car and were instantly knocked off our feet by the intense fruit smells. They were coming out of a small ground floor window in the back of the shop, through which we could see the lab where the magic happens.

{A cat is hiding in the picture. Can you spot it?}

Somebody’s pet is hiding in the picture. Can you spot it?

Continue reading »

Fennel Soup with Lime and Cashew Cream

Fennel Soup with Lime and Cashew Cream

Would you believe this recipe for fennel soup with lime stems from my once entering a giveaway for a three-day juice fast, and actually winning?

(I know. Some of you can’t get their head around why I entered in the first place, but what can I say? I’m curious, and I like cold-pressed juices.)

Presented with the option to do an all-juice fast, which I’d done once before and didn’t love, or to opt for the slightly less challenging, juice-and-soup combo, the latter is the one I chose.

I ended up not doing the actual fast — I was really very hungry — but rather incorporated the juices and soups into my regular meals, sharing them with my family and enjoying the nutrition boost. (Also, the ah-ma-zing convenience of having three days’ worth of ready-to-consume fruits and vegetables delivered to my door.)

Continue reading »

DIY Cake Stand (Genius Trick!)

DIY Cake Stand

Today, I have the neatest idea ever to share with you: how to turn any dinner plate into a DIY cake stand.

I was at the coffee shop the other day, waiting at the counter to pay for my Ethiopian filter coffee (so good), and I noticed the barista rearranging the baked goods in the display case. He picked up a plate of small cakes, slipped an upturned bowl underneath it, and all of a sudden, before my very eyes, a cake stand appeared!

I stared at him, speechless with wonder. What a genius trick! (He shrugged one shoulder, all “doesn’t everybody do this?”)

I was so excited I couldn’t wait to tell you about it; I even did a video and animated gifs to show you.

DIY Cake Stand

Continue reading »

Get the newsletter

Receive FREE email updates with all the latest recipes, plus exclusive inspiration and Paris tips. You can also choose to be notified when a new post is published.

View the latest edition of the newsletter.