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Chocolate & Zucchini

December 30, 2003

Crumble de Courgettes aux Champignons

Crumble de Courgettes aux Champignons

[Zucchini and Mushroom Crumble]

On Christmas day, Maxence and his mother joined us for lunch at my parents'. My mother and I cooked for this meal too, preparing most of it the day before.

As a first course, we served a Zucchini and Mushroom Crumble, a recipe we had come up with a week before, during our Christmas-menu-brainstorming session. Elaborating menus is one of my favorite activities, and practicing it with my mother was a lot of fun : the ping-pong mode we fell into, throwing different dish ideas into the air, catching them, morphing them, and throwing them back, keeping an ingredient but changing the method of preparation, staying with a theme but putting a different twist to it, until we settled on a combination that suited our needs in terms of taste, festiveness, ease and fun of preparation.

After this, we served a roasted turkey, which I unfortunately didn't get to photograph before the carving, stuffed with a walnut chestnut stuffing. I had never made stuffing before, but my mother had numerous times, and the walnut chestnut idea was from a magazine clipping. But as we started making the stuffing and I was asking about ingredient X or Y or some step the recipe called for, I quickly realized and pointed out with a laugh that she needed no recipe at all : what she really intended to make was her usual (delicious) stuffing, adding walnuts and chestnuts in the mix. And I can't really tell you how it was made, as I spent the entire recipe-making time chopping walnuts and chestnuts, sneaking teeny bits in every now and then. We served the turkey with a celery root purée, a traditional Christmas meal fare in France, and a sweet potato purée with maple syrup, inspired from the Thanksgiving meals Maxence and I were lucky enough to partake in back in the US. The turkey was fantastic, moist and flavorful, and the trimmings were equally wonderful.

Next came a cheese course of dry goat cheese, Mont d'Or (a.k.a. vacherin, served in its pine bark with a spoon as is the custom) and Etorky, a sheep's milk cheese from the Pyrénées.

Finally, we served an excellent store-bought chestnut and vanilla cake called Carré Marron Vanille, brought to us by our friend Monsieur Picard.

Crumble de Courgette aux Champignons

- 6 medium zucchinis
- 500 g mixed mushrooms
- a quarter of an onion
- 1 tsp flour
- olive oil
- 50 g oatmeal
- 50 g breadcrumbs
- 50 g butter, diced
- 50 g grated cheese (parmesan, comté...)
- thyme and dried herbs of your choice
- 6 leaves of curly parsley
- salt, pepper

Wash the mushrooms under clear water, dry on a towel, and cut the large ones in smaller pieces. Dice up the onion quarter finely. In a large skillet, heat up some olive oil, and put the onion in to cook for a few minutes over medium heat, until it starts to get translucent. Add the mushrooms, season with dried herbs, and cook for about ten minutes, until the mushrooms have shrunk and they have released their water. Add the flour and stir to thicken the mixture a little.

Cut the zucchinis in small pieces, preferably in little matchsticks, using your mom's bright orange mandoline. In a large skillet, heat up a little olive oil over high heat, put the zucchinis in, toss to coat, season with thyme, salt and pepper, and lower the heat. Cover and cook for about twenty minutes, until the zucchinis are tender, but not limp.

Prepare the crumble : put the oatmeal, breadcrumbs, butter and cheese in a medium bowl. Blend this all together using the tips of your fingers, until it resembles coarse sand. Season with salt, pepper and herbs.

The vegetables and the crumble can be prepared the day before.

Preheat the oven to 220°C (430°F). Set out six ramequins, preferably the wide and shallow ones used for crèmes brûlées. In each, spread out a layer of zucchinis, then a layer of mushrooms. Distribute the crumble mixture evenly on top, and place a parsley leave in the center. Put in the oven to bake for 10 to 15 minutes, until the crumble is golden. Serve immediately.

Every body raved about this. It's a light and tasty dish that leaves room for what comes next, and the combination of soft vegetables and crispy topping is an excellent one. And I particularly liked the little dried parsley leaf! The crumble topping can of course be used on other combinations of vegetables, and I used it once successfully in a main dish of salmon and leek crumble...

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 Print me! |  Comments (14)
Permalink | Posted by clotilde in Recipe Inside! - Starters
 Comments (14)

How inventive -- I love the idea of a courgette crumble!

Just out of curiosity, is celery root the same thing as celeriac?

And the carré marron vanille is too beautiful. Some foods are so gorgeous that it seems a shame to eat them!

Posted by Jackie D on December 31, 2003 4:25 AM

Jackie - yes, celery root ("céleri" or "céleri-rave" in French) is the same as celeriac. And I just discovered (thanks to foodsubs.com) that it's also called celery knob, turnip-rooted celery, knob celery, Germany celery, soup celery, turnip celery. Amazing the number of different names veggies tend to have!

Posted by clotilde on December 31, 2003 2:35 PM
 

Hah! This is a nice, clean, family blog, so I won't tell you why I find some of those alternative names for celery root so amusing!

I've never had celeriac, though many restaurants here serve celeriac mash. (I loathe raw celery, though I like it cooked, and am curious to try celery root now.)

Posted by Jackie on December 31, 2003 10:00 PM

very nice photo! using a very narrow depth of field gives a feeling of majestuosity!

(i am sure this was totally delicious, though...)

bises!


j

Posted by j... on January 6, 2004 1:34 PM

J - Glad you like the pic, it's one of Maxence's favorites, too! I'm sure you would love the crumble as well : why don't you whip that up for a little candlelit dinner with Marine? :)

Posted by clotilde on January 6, 2004 2:48 PM
 

I'm going to make this tonight for dinner -- I just wish we had that gorgeous Carré Marron Vanille to have with it!

Posted by Jackie on January 7, 2004 4:06 PM

Jackie - Well Picard does deliveries, so with a little lobbying, you might get them to send their stuff over to London! After all, this cake has to be thawed for a few hours, so a trip on the Eurostar would be just the thing for it!

I'm glad you're trying this tonight, I'll look forward to the blog entry!

Posted by clotilde on January 7, 2004 4:12 PM
 

Actually, Clotilde, on my next day trip to Paris (which I hope is soon!), I have a whole host of things that I want to bring back with me -- thanks to reading your blog! Stopping by Picard to pick up one of these? Pas de probleme, as we used to say in high school French class.

I made this tonight, as promised: chalk another point up for C&Z (and C&S -- Clotilde & Sylvie).

http://shorterlink.com/?0KUSQJ

Posted by Jackie on January 7, 2004 11:10 PM

Jackie - On your next daytrip, I will be taking you on a personal food shopping tour! :)

And of course, I'm thrilled that you liked the crumble too!

Posted by clotilde on January 8, 2004 12:35 AM
 

I'll take you up on that! And I will step off at the Gare du Nord with an empty stomach in anticipation!

Posted by Jackie D on January 8, 2004 12:47 PM

having an appalling lack of rammekins, I am left to ask - have you tried assembling this intriquing dish in an oval baker (or other larger dish)Any suggestions? Do you think the larger American zucchini will produce the same results? I would ask more, but my mouth is watering and I can't form sentences any more . . . . .

Posted by kate on June 6, 2006 8:43 PM

My family loves this dish, so much so that I usually make a double batch.

To answer Kate's questions, american zucchini works fine, and you could probably use any oven-safe container that was deep enough to maintain the layers-- I've made big batches in 9x13" baking dishes...

Posted by dwardio on November 9, 2006 8:36 PM

Merci pour les recettes! I am excited to try them all out! I read an article on the NYT about your website and I am in heaven!

Posted by Kajmicka on April 25, 2007 3:10 PM

Very nice recipe Clotilde!
Thank you!

Posted by Marie on April 24, 2008 7:25 PM
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