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Chocolate & Zucchini

May 11, 2004

Rhubarb Jam : What it Says about You

Confiture de Rhubarbe

And here you thought, ingenuously, that a bunch of rhubarb was just a bunch of rhubarb.

But no. A bunch of rhubarb, or any other delightful but fleetingly seasonal fruit, is in fact a test that life puts before you. Think Cosmopolitan meets Jean de la Fontaine : are you a grasshopper or an ant?

The grasshopper will enjoy the rhubarb now, and make a compote, a cake, a crumble, a tart, a pie, a buckle, a grunt, a cobbler, or hey, maybe even a slump.

The ant, however, will be good, will be wise ; the ant will show foresight and will prepare for the winter months. The ant will make jam.

Although I would love to claim that I am a grasshopper -- much more glamorous, no? -- our brimming kitchen cabinets certainly state otherwise. I will settle for a cross between grasshopper and ant, if such a thing is even possible, DNA-wise.

In any case it is the ant in me who decided to use the rhubarb and lemon I had in the fridge to whip up some Confiture de Rhubarbe, following yet another recipe in Christine Ferber's trusted little book "Mes Confitures". Organic rhubarb jam at that, since the rhubarb and lemon came from my Campanier basket.

No tasting notes as of yet : jam should be kept in a dark and preferably gloomy place for a few months, it builds character. But what I can already tell you is that it looks lovely, with its shades of baby pink and pistachio green. As you can see on the pic above, the rhubarb pieces all bobbed up to the surface of the syrup, which would probably put Christine to shame and make the jars unfit for sale in an upscale gourmet store, but guess what, that is not quite the destiny I had in mind for them.

I three-quartered the recipe below to adjust it to the amount of rhubarb I had, and was delighted to see that I had very precisely enough to fill three Bonne Maman jars. Not a drop more, not one less.

And this, of course, makes my inner ant very happy.

Confiture de Rhubarbe

- 1.2 kg rhubarb (1 kg when trimmed)
- 800 g sugar
- the juice of a lemon

(Makes 4 jars if you're using the Bonne Maman size)

Rinse the rhubarb, trim the ends, halve the stalks lengthwise and dice. Christine notes that she likes to use young and slender green stalks, and doesn't peel them, to keep the rhubarb chunks whole.

Combine the rhubarb pieces, the sugar and the lemon juice in a ceramic or glass dish, cover with parchment paper, and let rest overnight.

In the morning, the sugar will have drained the juice out of the rhubarb. Put a saucer in the freezer. Wash the glass jars and their lids carefully, then soak them in boiling water for 10 minutes, and set them out to dry upside down on a clean kitchen towel.

Pour the rhubarb mixture through a sieve. Bring the syrup you've gathered to a boil, cover and let it boil for five to ten minutes. The goal temperature, if you have a candy thermometer, is 110°C (230°F).

Add in the rhubarb, bring back to a boil and let simmer for five to ten more minutes, stirring gently from time to time.

Take the saucer out of the freezer, and put a drop of jam on it. Tilt the saucer, and see if the jam is set. If not, let it boil for another minute, then test again until you've reached the desired consistency.

Pour the jam into the jars until they are full, wipe carefully if there was any spillage and close the lids tightly. Let cool to room temperature upside-down on the counter, then store in a cool and dark place for a few months.

Disclaimer! This jarring method (boiling the jars then closing them tightly and letting them cool upside down) is one that's been commonly practiced in France for generations and generations. However, using a sterilizing machine and rubber-lidded jars is the only way to be absolutely safe. For more information on home-canning, click here.

More Entries Like This One:
~ Rhubarb Compote with Pink Champagne Cookies
~ Red Onion and Rhubarb, Fresh Cheese and Quince Mini-Tartlets
~ Pink Compote
~ Raspberry Rhubarb Grunt

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Permalink | Posted by clotilde in Jams & Dips - Recipe Inside!
 Comments (28)

Jamais recette de rhubarbe n'a été racontée avec autant de panache, j'en suis sûre. Thanks for a pleasing morning read!

Posted by Martine la banlieusarde on May 11, 2004 12:16 PM

Clotilde, what a clever idea to use a saucer from the fridge to see how it is setting - I've never heard of that! Do you put wax on top of your jam, or just put them in the Bonne Maman jars with no sealant?

Posted by Meg in Paris on May 11, 2004 1:04 PM

This looks fantastic Clotilde! I'm a huge fan of rhubarb jam (in particular, rhubarb and ginger) but I've never tried making it myself. Do let us know how it tastes when you try it.

I'm not sure that I'm a pure grasshopper though!! I'm eagerly awaiting strawberry season so that I can make some liqueur and also a few pots of jam :)

Posted by Angela on May 11, 2004 5:21 PM

hi clotilde, i seem to be a bit of both - wonder what a cross between an ant and a grasshopper would look like, probably not very attractive! I have recently posted a recipe for rhubarb and raspberry jam on my own foodblog, if you want to have a look (www.thepassionatecook.com). As I will be getting about 20kg of organic rhubarb out of a friends garden soon, I will be trying yours for sure!
greetings from london

Posted by johanna on May 11, 2004 6:00 PM

I suppose I tend more toward the combination ant/grasshopper -- my ant side comes out more strongly when I actually have something in quantity. When I have only precious, small amounts, I suppose I go for more immediate gratification.

When I was a child, we lived in a house that had a Montmorency cherry tree -- the very bright red sour cherries. We made pies (some of which we froze, like good ants), cherries in syrup, and our own cherry preserves, since we had all that bounty...sigh...now if I'm lucky, I'll sometimes find that same sort of cherry at the farmer's market for a week or so at the end of June. But they are usually so costly that buying enough to make preserves is prohibitive!

Posted by Julie on May 11, 2004 6:05 PM

Clotilde, I ordered two books you mentioned: Mes confitures and Soupes du jour from Librairie-gourmand (rue Dante) and arranged a gift certificate for you. Amy Prevost will email you when it's set. I want to contribute to you and C&Z. In the future I'll use your Amazon wish list or Paypal, but this seemed efficient because I can also support Amy. My rhubarb is almost ready so when Mes confitures arrives I'll be ready.

Posted by John Chypre on May 11, 2004 6:59 PM

hi clotilde!

just wondering, are there any recipes or discussions in the jam book about making jam with less sugar?

Posted by isabelle on May 12, 2004 9:01 AM

Martine - Merci beaucoup pour ce joli compliment!

Meg - No, no wax, I just close the lids tightly while still warm, and hope for the best! My mom tells me that the amount of sugar preserves the fruit...

Angela - I've never tried the rhubarb ginger combo, it must be really nice. Christine's book includes a Rhubarbe, Abricot et Gingembre jam, I think.

Johanna - Congrats on starting your own blog! I've added it to my list...

Julie - Those cherry concoctions sound luscious. Some people think it strange to *buy* fruit to make jam, as it was originally just a way to preserve fruit that would otherwise rot, uneaten -- but us city kids, deprived of any garden or orchard, have to make do with what's in store!

John - Oh wow, thank you *very* much, what a kind and thoughtful thing to do, I'm delighted! I'll let you know when Amy gets in touch with me. And I hope you enjoy the books you've ordered -- actually, I'm sure you will!

Isabelle - No, I don't think there is. Christine Ferber's recipes are very much about making jam the traditional way, and that involves putting in all that sugar to preserve the fruit even at room temperature. Also, I've learned at the Salon Saveurs (at the stand where you bought the little babas) that anything with less than 60% sugar can't be called "confiture". More info here : http://www.roumaniere.com/fr/dtsf.html

Posted by clotilde on May 12, 2004 5:05 PM
 

My family's rhubarb conserve includes orange zest and walnuts.

Posted by Kris Hasson-Jones on May 12, 2004 8:54 PM

Kris - That sounds lovely. Do you have a recipe to share by any chance?

Posted by clotilde on May 13, 2004 6:07 PM
 

I will definetly try this. I have just moved recently and have found a nice little patch of rhubarb.

Posted by Donna on May 17, 2004 2:43 PM

I enjoyed your site. It's always fun finding someplace new to visit.
I am passing along a great site about rhubarb. It will tell you all you need to know about rhubarb and more with some good looking recipes. www.rhubarbinfo.com
Linda

Posted by Linda on May 25, 2004 10:42 PM

Donna - Lucky you! It is my dream to someday have a garden and grow rhubarb in it!

Linda - That website looks like a well of info, thanks for passing it along.

Posted by clotilde on May 26, 2004 3:39 PM
 

I looked; there's no real recipe. Take equal volumes of rhubarb (about 1/4 inch slices) and sugar; grind up an entire orange; boil together, stir in chopped walnuts. Pour into jelly jars.

It's heavenly. I adore it.

Posted by Kris Hasson-Jones on May 26, 2004 11:24 PM

Kris - Thanks a lot for the recipe guidelines, it does sound like a great pairing.

Posted by clotilde on May 28, 2004 1:41 PM
 

Miyagi made me into The Grasshopper I am today...or perhaps it was my father's 'variations on the theme' of cumquat jam that ensures I dare not tip my hand to the fine art of jam-making.

Is there a way of making jam without permanently embedding the smell in the walls?

Posted by Kate Anne on August 18, 2004 4:56 PM

Sadly I failed with this recipe. It took more than 20 minutes to reach 110 degrees then all the rhubarb broke up, then the jam caught on the bottom of the pan before a set was achieved. I believe my hob is not fast enough (electric) though I just can't stop trying and have a cupboard full of various types of jams and chutneys which set (eventually).

Posted by Jen on September 5, 2004 11:24 AM

was so happy to read the rhubarb recipes. I've been making rhubard-ginger jam forever (and I'm a very senior person!) --used my mother's recipe - 3 cups sugar to 4 cups of fruit - cooking 'til 220 degrees - the fruit is all mashed, and the ginger gives it a lovely brown color - sometimes I add raisins. My family loves the results.

Posted by Gwyn Lyon on January 30, 2005 11:23 PM

I have an important question about the harvesting of the rhubarb plant. Can I cut and use the stalks of the rhubarb if the plant is flowering? Are the leaves the only part of this plant that is poisonous or the entire plant is dangerous because it is seeding?

Posted by San on June 1, 2005 2:19 PM

Rhubarb must be the perfect plant! Tart & sweet, a wide variety of uses, and virtually indestructible to boot. Everything else in my yard dies, but the rhubarb comes back every year - bigger & better. And it's not so seasonal as people think - I just harvested some for jam in mid september. (BTW-in answer to the harvesting question-if you let your plants go to seed the fruit is still edible. But you'll get less and what you get won't be as good: tougher and less flavorful.) I've got just enough still growing for some preserves and, if I'm lucky, maybe enough to try the rhubarb-ginger jam.
This is my first foray into preserving. When I looked out my back window a few days ago and saw what I knew would be the last bunch until spring, my inherent ant nature kicked in. I thought about how good a rhubarb meringue would taste in December. I thought about pirozhki with reven in February. I knew I had to act.

Posted by Jim Moon on September 22, 2005 10:28 AM

Again, I'm years late with my comments, but I'm wondering:

a) if it's really necessary to age rhubarb jam. My mother, who I listen to on everything, says she never heard of such a thing.

b) how your recipe turned out. You must have eaten the jam by now. I've just put up a batch following your recipe (actually I made three batches: one following your recipe, one using strawberries and rhubarb, and one with strawberries, rhubarb, and a little ginger.

Related to a), I think your inner grasshopper must have been very disappointed at your recipe exactly filling three jars. If you'd had a bit more, you could have used it right away, and previewed the future results, kind of like with Beaujolais Nouveau.

Anyway, I did lick the spoon, and the early results are very, very positive. I'll know even more the day after tomorrow (I have to wait until then, since I don't have any fresh bread, and won't until then, and I don't want the first taste of my new jam to be on two-day-old bread!).

Posted by Ray Gossen on July 17, 2006 11:24 AM

I just harvested some for jam in mid september. (BTW-in answer to the harvesting question-if you let your plants go to seed the fruit is still edible. But you'll get less and what you get won't be as good: tougher and less flavorful.)

Posted by tramadol on March 17, 2007 4:28 PM

I have an important question about the harvesting of the rhubarb plant. Can I cut and use the stalks of the rhubarb if the plant is flowering? Are the leaves the only part of this plant that is poisonous or the entire plant is dangerous because it is seeding?

Posted by purchase tramadol on April 24, 2007 9:18 PM

was so happy to read the rhubarb recipes. I've been making rhubard-ginger jam forever (and I'm a very senior person!) --used my mother's recipe - 3 cups sugar to 4 cups of fruit - cooking 'til 220 degrees - the fruit is all mashed, and the ginger gives it a lovely brown color - sometimes I add raisins. My family loves the results.

Posted by cheap soma on April 30, 2007 8:05 AM

I'm sure you know this... letting the finished jam sit for a few minutes before spooning it into the jars makes the fruit less likely to float to the top. Thank you for the recipe. Rhubarb is one of my favorite things, and this recipe highlights the flavor well.

Posted by Elizabeth on May 3, 2007 8:52 PM

Hi Clotilde! I am so glad I found this recipe because I had no time to make a dessert with the rhubarb before IT would go bad. The jam is fantastic! I just placed the glass jar in boiling water as well... which has worked fine for the last couple weeks.

Posted by Kova on June 7, 2007 4:39 PM

I just harvested some for jam in mid september. (BTW-in answer to the harvesting question-if you let your plants go to seed the fruit is still edible. But you'll get less and what you get won't be as good: tougher and less flavorful.)

Posted by tramadol on April 29, 2008 3:26 PM

I once made a batch of "Blubarb" jam ~ blueberry/rhubarb. I don't know how the blueberries and rhubarb were ripe at the same time, though. Maybe I used frozen blueberries. Anyway, it was really delicious.

Posted by Gwendolyn on April 20, 2009 4:34 PM
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