March 30, 2005
Au Fil des Saisons
GO:: Au fil des saisons had been on my to-try list for a while: I had been told good things about the chef, his use of fresh products and his "homemade everything" approach (including bread and sorbets). I had dinner there with my friend Marion a few weeks ago, when it was still remarkably cold -- hence the wintery menu choices as you'll see below.
The restaurant is located on a teeny tiny street off the Place de la République, and the room itself is very small too, no more than fifteen tables, in a "country inn" décor with bare brick walls and dark wood furniture. Not necessarily my first choice aesthetically speaking, but it is welcoming enough and goes well with the food.
EAT:: I started with the Aiguillettes d'agneau, purée d'aubergine et asperges: tender strips of lamb, a little mound of eggplant caviar and a few al dente asparagus. Perfectly seasoned and a great mix of flavors.
I went on with a Fricassée de pigeonneau, sauce au porto et au romarin: a pigeon stew in a porto and rosemary sauce, served with a delicious gratin dauphinois (potato gratin). The meat was very tender and juicy, and the sauce was aromatic enough to hold up to the strength and gaminess of the pigeon.
For dessert, Marion and I shared a Trio de fondants au chocolat: three small coquetiers (eggcups) filled with a velvety, semi-cooked chocolate cream -- crusty on top, liquid inside -- in white chocolate, milk chocolate and dark chocolate. My favorite was the dark chocolate, the other two were a tad too sweet for my taste, but this was still the perfect dose of chocolate to end the meal. I even dreamt about these a few nights later -- that has to tell you something!
PAY:: Chalkboard menu. 26€ for two courses, 31€ for three courses.
FORGET:: I would have liked a little more warmth to the service: while it was efficient and diligent and professional, I like a few more smiles sprinkled on top. The lady was waiting on all the tables by herself and maybe it just wasn't her night, or I irked her with my curiosity and questions -- that happens. But we had a nice little chat with the chef before we left (he was sharing a post-service drink with a few friends) and this attenuated the impression.
REMEMBER:: The skewers of mini-loaves of homemade bread, fresh from the oven. The careful -- yet not showy -- plating. The deep and well-rounded flavors of all the dishes. The mix of tradition and creativity, the respectful use of quality products.
RECOMMEND:: A great place to go for traditional French with a twist (especially for meat-lovers) and an excellent value meal. Now I have to go back and see what Spring brings on the menu!
AU FIL DES SAISONS
6 rue des Fontaines du Temple
75003 Paris
01 42 74 16 60
M° Temple ou Arts-et-Métier
Never miss a recipe!
Sign up for the Chocolate & Zucchini newsletter to receive monthly news and a digest of recent entries.
Print me! | 
Send by email
| 
Comments (12)
Permalink | Posted by clotilde in Paris City Guide - Restaurants
This sounds fantastic, Clotilde. I can't wait to try it out. And any place with lots of meat is a good thing. Also, it's so much fun to go to restaurants whose menus really change with the seasons. You know the chef is constantly recreating. Sounds like a great meal!
By the way, I love your site. Been reading it rather regularly since October and have turned my Mom onto it as well.
Posted by Lady Amalthea on March 30, 2005 3:13 PMthe chocolate sounds perfect, although I'm not too sure about the rest of the meal. One more place to put on my 'to go' list for when I finally get to Europe.
Posted by Alex on March 30, 2005 4:38 PMoh I love fricassée'd anything and this dish sounds very interesting. Did the porto and rosemary overpower the wee pidgeon? Just curious...
Posted by JK Ruddy on March 30, 2005 6:03 PMthe first course - I could taste it as I read it.
Clotilde,
Thanks for the wonderful review. A place to add to my list of must visit restaurants. Hope to be able to enjoy their menu de printemps when I get there in May.
Keep up the wonderful work you're doing with the site. I can't mention enough times to let you know how enjoyable it is!
Posted by Lilia Dignan on March 30, 2005 9:55 PMWhat an interesting, insightful and wonderfully written blog...thank you so much for the time, care and sharing of yourself and your interests and experiences that goes into this site. Our family of four living on Bainbridge Island in Washington state are leaving on the Day of Fools for 3 months in France and staying april and may in Lourmarin on Rue de la Juiverie. We look forward to the adventure and SURE DO HOPE that our weak dollars will find some creative ways to allow us to sample the fares of the country. best in blogging, anne
Posted by anne on March 31, 2005 1:54 AMHi
I agree. your Blog is just great. It's apleasure reading it. Just wonderful.
Dancing With Tears In My Eyes
Matthias
Posted by Matthias on March 31, 2005 2:39 PMThis sounds like exactly the sort of place I'm always searching out in a town or city that I don't know well. My last trip to Paris, I ended up eating at a horrible tourist trap on the Left Bank, and at the Tour D'Argent as well: from the ridiculous to the sublime, indeed. Your blog is a wonderful resource in so many ways, Clotilde...not the least of which will be all the great places to try when next I land in Paris. Who knows when that will be...sniff sniff.
Posted by Julie on March 31, 2005 4:35 PMhmmm yeah it's great and verything, even the favicon is super stylish... hmm i'm sort of jealous that you know this place, and now spreading the word, i live right next to it and i just feel like "sh*i now some blogers will overcrowd the restaurant.." mutter...
;)
Posted by schuey on March 31, 2005 11:35 PMThanks for the recommendation. I ate there last Saturday night with 3 friends. I made a reservation for dinner as the place is small and you have recommended it. We really enjoyed the meal : my entree was salade de langoustines avec tuile de pavots. The langoustines were served on a pile of shredded leeks, which had been poached in some intensely flavoured stock, with a hand made wafer scattered with poopy seeds. Delicious attention to detail. My main course was pave du thon which was served with brocolli and dried tomatoes - a bit less of a success as I found the tuna overcooked rather than seared as I prefer. And of course I had the gorgeous trio fondants du chocolat served in three white egg cups. A nice St Emilion accompanied our meal. Others at my table had melt-in-the mouth foie gras and then brochettes de rognons de veau - all highly praised. The menu was extensive and it was hard to make a choice... I would go again ! Thank you !
Posted by Cheryl on April 4, 2005 7:10 PMWe followed several recommendations to Au Fils Des Saisons. We had a nice welcome, but I spent the whole of the next day regreting my choice of Canard Mal, as it became to be known. Im sure it was just a one-off, but I've been put off the taste of Duck Breast and Lavender for a long, long time. Perhaps it was the snails, but they were so hot I doubt it. Undercooked/bloody duck breast probably isnt that good an idea (I like my steak that way, and I felt pressured by the cook, who was very nice, to have it done that way).
Posted by Winton Davies on April 16, 2005 7:32 PMOK - here's the thing. I am lucky enough to live in Australia and yet come to Paris many times (I have family here). So it was with delight that I first sampled the food at Au Fil Des Saisons and now on many occasions since. As a reasonably seasoned Paris visitor I know many restaurants and this one stands alone for many reasons. It has a menu that is gorgeously, passionately French in a way you don't often find now, simple but the best of everything. Despite comments to the contrary, I adore the decor and the piece de resistance is surely Stefan - the chef and owner. Rarely do we see such dedication to quality, such zealous passion for the food of his ancestors and so impeccably carried out. This is a man of immense passion. To say it is worth a visit is to underestimate this place. I don't think it is hyperbole to say that if you do not eat here, you have not truly tasted French food. Long live Au Fil De Sasions and Stefan - if you ever come to Sydney, please make sure that you open a restaurant near me, OK?
Bisous, Becky. xxxx
Posted by Becky on June 22, 2005 2:31 AMThank you for recommending Au Fil de Saisons. I went there a few weeks ago on a recent trip to Paris and it was absolutely wonderful. Service has improved and she was absolutely lovely and efficient. It is a bit of a hidden treasure, eg. small street and no sign indicating the restaurant's name but well worth the trip into the Marais and especially reasonable and memorable food. I will absolutely return. Enjoy, Carol
Posted by Carol on November 29, 2007 11:16 AMPrivacy. The email addresses you enter will not be used for any other purpose than the sending of this message.