August 3, 2005
Ricotta Maison
[Homemade Ricotta]
The minute I read Heidi's post about making your own ricotta and her comment that "this ricotta tastes and smells like the milk it is made from so use the best and freshest dairy you can find", I instantly thought what a perfect use it would be for the bottle of raw milk that Christoph and Susanne gave me for my birthday as part of their superb farm-fresh gift basket.
I set to work in late afternoon the next day, slightly incredulous as to whether this would actually work: I mean, heat up some milk and surely what you get is hot milk, not cheese, right? I must say I am pretty baffled by my own tendency to be the St Thomas of food chemistry -- I'll believe it when I see it. Where does that come from? I shall write myself a prescription to carefully read the entire revised work of both Harold McGee
And sure enough, everything went according to plan. When the combined milk and fermented milk reached the magic temperature (I was merrily using the candy thermometer I acquired months ago and never ever used, not even once), curds started to gather at the surface: this was my cheese! I carefully ladled first the whey then the curds into the prepared dishcloth and sieve, waited a bit, gathered the dishcloth into a bunch, tied it to the faucet with a string and a shoelace knot, waited some more, and reopened the dishcloth to collect my pretty ball of fresh ricotta. Does it get any easier? I think not.
Later that night Maxence and I tasted it on its own, then spread it on little Swedish crispbreads, and again in the morning on slices of toasted bread under a thin layer of Christine Ferber's blackcurrant and violet jam, and declared it to be among the best fresh cheeses we had ever had, one in which the real tastes and smells of the milk and the barn and the happy cow all explode in your mouth -- a far cry from the muted fluffy thing that they sell as ricotta in grocery stores here.
Maxence requested that I make a fresh batch for him every day.
Ricotta Maison
Recipe here.
Metric measurements:
- 4L whole milk
- 1L buttermilk / kéfir / fermented milk
Yields about 1 L ricotta.
The temperature to watch for in the milk mixture is 80°C.
Recipe notes:
- Buttermilk isn't readily available around here, but kéfir (fermented milk) is and that's my usual substitution whenever a recipe calls for buttermilk. It works beautifully here.
- Since I just had one bottle of milk, I fourthed the recipe and used 1L milk with 1C (250ml) kéfir and this yielded about one cup of ricotta.
- I didn't have cheesecloth on hand. Heidi sugested using a pair of (clean) tights or nylons, but I used my non-terrycloth kitchen towel with a cheesy Montmartre pattern on it, thinking it would be most appropriate. It worked, but I think it is a bit too closely knit to be really efficient, the liquids seemed to have a hard time seeping through it.
- In French, cheesecloth is étamine, whey is petit lait (literally "little milk", isn't that cute?) and curd is caillé. Just so you know.
Never miss a recipe!
Sign up for the Chocolate & Zucchini newsletter to receive monthly news and a digest of recent entries.
More Recipes Like This One:
~ Ricotta Meat Terrine
~ (Not So) Chique
~ Fresh Cheese and Cilantro Dip
~ Bacon and Cantal Cheese Clafoutis
~ Aged Gouda and Dried Pear Scones/Biscuits
Print me! | 
Send by email
| 
Comments (40)
Permalink | Posted by clotilde in Cheese & Dairy - Recipe Inside! - Starters
Don't you love it? Isn't homemade always better?
Posted by pmatthewbrown on August 3, 2005 11:42 AMhomemade is always better... even if it takes time to prepare ! Homemade ricotta is an amazing idea... i must try your recipe !
Posted by fallenangel on August 3, 2005 11:56 AMooh.. just caught me on a dismally boring and uninspired day
Posted by binky on August 3, 2005 12:33 PMthank heavens, we shall be making ricotta today and cheesecake tommorow!
Homemade ricotta is one of the tastiest things ever. My mom made it when I was little and keeps trying to get me to make it for myself here in New York. Because in America everything is pasteurized, she had to tweak the recipe for pasteurized milk when we came to the U.S. I should ask her for the recipe and share it. Because it is incredibly tasty and good for you!
Posted by radish on August 3, 2005 12:40 PMSuperb! I shall definitely try this myself.
Good to learn some new French words, too. (Although why I already knew étamine is a complete mystery to me... I don't remember having ever talked about cheesecloth in France before.)
Posted by Ant on August 3, 2005 2:28 PMWhat a wonderful description - I'm sure you now have a whole bunch of converts to homemade ricotta - and the photo is so sweet.
Posted by Annie on August 3, 2005 3:44 PMI've been missing out.
Posted by Pope Benedict XVI on August 3, 2005 4:02 PMThanks for this recipe - I've always wanted to try home-made soft cheese, but, like you, never quite believed it would work :) I'll have a go now. Is there any use for the whey? It seems a shame to let it go down the drain? Or am I being too frugal? :)
Posted by Stephanie on August 3, 2005 4:14 PMwow thanks for the recipe. Will definitely try this.... considering how much I use ricotta. I make paneer (the Indian cheese) for my palak paneer (spinach+cheese) almost the same way.
Posted by Lisa on August 3, 2005 4:23 PMHappy belated birthday,Clotilde and glad you are still enjoying those deliciosu and amazing birthday pressies!
We make mozzarella and cheddar at home using either raw milk (it is available in the US, you just have to find a friendly dairy) or organic milk. We haven't tried ricotta yet. I really enjoy your site.
Posted by Sabrina on August 3, 2005 5:04 PMSabrina: I'm intrigued, how do you make mozzarella and cheddar?
Clotilde: Félicitations et Joyeux Anniversaire - I'm new to your blog and am extremely impressed. It's inspiring. Thank you.
Posted by Casey on August 3, 2005 5:13 PMNice! I have been making cheese at home with pasteurized milk for a few months now and we do enjoy it a lot!
http://www.yogurtland.com/2005/04/29/cheesepeynir/
Posted by fethiye on August 3, 2005 6:34 PMDuring your studies, you may enjoy Shirley Corriher's COOKWISE. (She shows up on Good Eats all of the time.)
Great interview here:
http://www.iceculinary.com/news/article_21.shtml
Posted by sciencegrrl on August 3, 2005 7:23 PMEvil, evil woman. I've ruined my waistline with your chocolate cakes, your stuffed zucchinis and now I'll have to add the ricotta.
Oh well, I have a large butt, but it's a happy, well-fed butt!
;-)
Thanks for the wonderful site!
Posted by Lisa on August 3, 2005 8:18 PMclotilde, did you do anything with the whey?
I'm trying to make my own kashk, the persian whey paste that is crucial to several of our dishes.
Posted by Fatemeh on August 3, 2005 8:31 PMSciencegrrl - Thanks for the recommendation, I'd never heard of Shirley...
Sabrina - I second Casey's request for more info regarding the mozzarella and cheddar!
Stephanie and Fatemeh - I threw out the whey, not knowing what to do with it, but if anyone has suggestions I'd love to hear them!
Posted by clotilde on August 3, 2005 9:04 PMInteresting. I made paneer not too long ago (using lemon juice rather than buttermilk) but otherwise the process is nearly identical. Does that mean that paneer and ricotta are nearly the same thing, merely formed into different shapes and then paneer is eventually cooked? Must research...
Posted by Catherine on August 3, 2005 10:47 PMHi Clotilde
you know what, this has got to be one of the most delightful moments in my life... (have I gotten too far?) I have checked that post about home-made ricotta by Heidi, and felt turned down because I can't find buttermilk over here in Japan, either. And now you have opened up the door - I know I can get kefir! Hooray!
Now do you think I can make home-made creme fraiche, using cream and kefir instead of buttermilk, as well?
Posted by chika on August 4, 2005 1:05 AMI recently borrowed the revised edition of the Harold McGee book from my library after seeing an old copy on a friends bookshelf in Sydney . It is such an intersting read I've decided to buy my own copy. I make a similar spread to the ricotta using low fat milk and yogurt which I have on my morning toast with a rhubarb jelly. The two flavours match really well.
Posted by Barbara on August 4, 2005 1:08 AMCatherine,
Posted by Lisa on August 4, 2005 1:15 AMyupp I use Lemon too - lemon+buttermilk+fullcream milk, hence the almost. I didn't realise you omit lemon and get ricotta!
I used buttermilk for better structure and flavour of the paneer.
Sounds so simple!I think I may give it a go, and try making the paneer as well.
Posted by saffron on August 4, 2005 2:11 AMWhat a fabulous experiment, Clotilde! Thank you also for including the vocab words / phrases, here and in your newsletter.
That reminds me of an "L.A. Times" article I thought you all might like on French food-based idioms (link below). A favorite: "Tu as le cul borde des nouilles"! (Literally, your bum's surrounded by noodles, meaning you're lucky.) How on earth did that phrase come into being?!
http://www.latimes.com/features/food/la-fo-frenchbox13jul13,1,6910257.story
Posted by Jenji on August 4, 2005 2:18 AMthat's amazing! i'd love to try your recipe out as i've a major weakness for fresh ricotta and homemade mango jam on fresh-baked bread!
Posted by Midge on August 4, 2005 6:45 AMthe whey, I bottled it to use for bread
nice loaf, honey and whey
heat the whey slightly, then whisk in a couple of spoons of honey, two tsp active dry yeast (or fresh, whatever is to hand) and 250g flour. leave to go bubbly for half an hour.
add in 250g more flour, 50g melted butter and a couple of tsp salt.
knead, rise, knock back and bake as per usual.
it's good with ricotta and some honeycomb spread on top. loosely adapted from "the handmade loaf" by dan lepard.
course, you can just sub whey into any recipe you fancy. buttermilk pancakes for instance.
Posted by bnky on August 4, 2005 2:36 PMyum, fresh ricotta! it reminds me when my mom used to make it for her ricotta pie. I would always eat the ricotta after she added sugar to it....:-)
Posted by Antonietta on August 4, 2005 3:36 PMbnky, you're must be reading my mind :)
Posted by Stephanie on August 4, 2005 3:38 PMi was just thinking, if i make the cheese, i really should make the bread to eat with it!
I have made my own ricotta for many years using our goat milk. We have had much fun experimenting with adding spices and fruits and yes, even chocolate.
Posted by Patricia on August 4, 2005 3:44 PMSo good to eat !
Clotilde (and Casey) -
I would be happy to share the information on making mozzarella and cheddar at home. The book we use is called "Home Cheese Making" and it was written by Ricki Carroll. She also has a website where she sells home cheese making supplies - www.cheesemaking.com. This link shows how to make "30-minute mozzarella" http://www.cheesemaking.com/includes/modules/jWallace/ChsPgs/1Mozz/Index.html. I'm happy to write more of a description of how we do it (with less equipment at least for the cheddar) if you can tell me where to send it. It will be too long for a comment.
Posted by Sabrina on August 4, 2005 6:07 PMI read this post yesterday, I today I stumbled across this recipe to make buttermilk!
Ingredients:
1 oz yeast
1 oz sugar
4 pts water
1 pt milk
Method:
Posted by Ami on August 5, 2005 2:04 AM1. Cream sugar and yeast
2. Warm the water slightly and mix with milk
3. Gradually stir milk and water until the milk smells like buttermilk - slightly sour but not unpleasant
4. Strain through muslin and use for bread and scone recipes calling for buttermilk. From the following site:
http://www.irishcultureandcustoms.com/2Kitch/rBeverages1.html#Buttermilk
I AM inspired to try this at home - Perhaps you have gotten over your distrust of chemistry? You can try bread making now!
Everyday Maxence?? Everyday??!!!
Posted by Alisa on August 5, 2005 1:55 PMI have had homemade ricotta a few times while working in italy, and it is absolutely fabulous, especially if made with some goat and cow's milk combined. It adds just enough earthiness to give it a bit more flavor, and still goes great with bread, olive oil, and salt, or some fresh honey!
Posted by Kate on August 6, 2005 3:37 PMClothilde, did you know that they exerpted this post in the Independent late last week? They credited chocolate and zucchini but they labelled you "anonymous blogger" !!
Posted by thalia on August 8, 2005 12:27 AMHello from Toronto! I've just stumbled upon your blog, and I'm completely addicted. I've already sent the link to 3 friends.
Posted by elaine on August 8, 2005 5:45 PMI love the efforts you go to to make things like fresh ricotta cheese. When I was in my 20's, i came upon a similar recipe for making fresh cream cheese (not the Philly kind, but real & creamy) Your article has inspired me to dig it up and resurrect it although it's more of a winter recipe, because it involves leaving the mixture sitting on a warm radiator overnight.
Best wishes.
Elaine
A simple way to make buttermilk can be found in Paula Deen's cookbook, "The Lady & Sons Savannah Country Cookbook." Add one teaspoon distilled white vinegar to 1 cup fresh milk; let sour for five minutes.
Posted by Kathy on August 10, 2005 3:32 PMSomething to do with the ricotta is to make Torta di Ricotta, also called Torta Nonna:
Pastry (pasta frolla):
260 gm. all purpose flour
225 gm. unsalted butter at room temperature
30 gm. sugar
pinch of salt
zest of one lemon
4 egg yolks
5 cl. sweet marsala
Combine the flour, sugar, butter, salt, and lemon zest in the mixer on low speed; add the egg yolks one at a time, then the marsala. Mix just until it coheres, then wrap in plastic and refrigerate at least 1/2 hour.
Filling:
1 kg. ricotta
120 gm. sugar
25 gm. flour
zest of one lemon
4 egg yolks
50 gm. golden raisins
Combine all ingredients.
Assembling the Torta:
preheat oven to 175° C.
Roll out two-thirds of the pastry to a circle to fit your tart pan. (I use a fairly deep one, approximately 20 cm. diameter by 4 cm. deep, with a removable bottom.) Line the pan with the pastry and spoon the filling into it. Roll the remaining pastry into a rectangle and cut strips about 1 cm wide; make a lattice crust.
Brush the crust with a little lightly beaten egg white; sprinkle on a few pignolis. Bake about 45 minutes or until the pastry is golden brown.
Posted by john on August 12, 2005 5:56 AMHi! I tried to click "here" for the link to the recipe and alas one of those nasty 404 page not found errors appeared: "Not Found
The requested URL /archives/000185.html was not found on this server.
Additionally, a 404 Not Found error was encountered while trying to use an ErrorDocument to handle the request."
Hopefully you have the recipe some where else, it would be great to try, thanks!
Emily
PS: Great idea of using Kéfir instead of buttermilk - I have been searching for a "replacement" for ages!
Posted by Emily on September 1, 2005 12:04 PMEmily - if you are referring to the link for the mozzarella recipe (you didn't say which recipe you were having difficulty with) remove the full stop at the end of the url, in other words, .html not .html.
which should clear it up.
I've been looking for a ricotta recipe for a while, and will definitely try this. I've watched Italian dairies make it by hand; the 'curd' you get from the whey is actually albumen, which is perhaps why ricotta sometimes seems 'eggy' to me. Mmm...
Posted by mangetout on September 4, 2005 9:13 AMCombine the flour, sugar, butter, salt, and lemon zest in the mixer on low speed; add the egg yolks one at a time, then the marsala. Mix just until it coheres, then wrap in plastic and refrigerate at least 1/2 hour.
Posted by Sanji on January 6, 2006 4:17 PMyou can also make buttermilk using heavy cream, just put it in a jar and shake it for around 15 minutes, you'll get a lump of butter swimming in buttermilk, just drain the buttermilk, and if you are going to use the butter rinse it very well to get the buttermilk out of it
Posted by alexis on January 11, 2006 10:00 PMWhat a wonderful discovery, a treasure trove of information. I'am an Italian living in Canada and often remenise on the wonderful rich taste of the mozarella and ricotta I had on a couple of my trips back home, it just doesn't comparare to anything in the supermarket. I've often tried to describe this rich milky taste to my boyfriend, now I will be able to let him taste it. Thank you for making this accesible ......a trip back to my origins without taking a plane. And thank you to Sabrina for web site on mozarella making.
Domenica
Posted by Domenica on February 21, 2007 5:52 PMPrivacy. The email addresses you enter will not be used for any other purpose than the sending of this message.