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Chocolate & Zucchini

August 25, 2006

Courgette Bicolore de Rocher

Courgette Bicolore

[Bi-Coloured-Python-Rock-Zucchini]

It's probably safe to assume that I pay more attention to zucchini than the average joe, but if you had been walking by Joël Thiébault's market stall* with me that day, you wouldn't have missed these either: there, between the hostess-gift-worthy bouquets of fresh herbs and the off-white bulbs of hélianthi (a cousin of the Jerusalem artichoke with fewer knobs), was a basket of curvy-necked, bi-colored zucchini.

These zucchini were a little scratched, yes, as if they'd spent the morning playing in the bramble thicket, but they were thin-skinned and firm, they looked as if their bottoms had been dipped in pale green paint, and this was too pretty to pass up.

"Are they bi-flavored?" I asked the vendor, "Like Malabars?" (The Malabar is a French bubble-gum that was created in 1958, and comes in a bi-goût version -- lemon and strawberry -- that was hugely popular in my gum-chewing days.) He laughed and said, "Sure, vanilla and pistachio." I bought two pounds.

Of course, once the zucchini is sliced -- in my case, paper-thinly and served raw in a salad, with olive oil and a few drops of the stupendous 12-year-old balsamic vinegar that my friend Marianne gave me for my birthday -- only you will know that it was bi-colored in the first place. But this doesn't bother me at all; I like the idea that this chromatic oddity is for the sole benefit of the cook, a bit like wearing nice underwear when no one's there to see it. (If you are intent on showing it off, however, you could opt to halve and stuff the zucchini, perhaps with two different colors of stuffing, to really get your point across.)

* Joël Thiébault -- for those of you who don't live in Paris, or do, but have been living under a paving stone -- is the super-star of vegetable growers. In his family farm just outside of Paris, he cultivates hundreds of varieties, most of them rare or saved from oblivion (légumes oubliés), and provides them to famous Parisian chefs -- Pierre Gagnaire, Pascal Barbot, and Inaki Aizpitarte, to name just a few. And for the benefit of us mere mortals, he also sells them on two different markets, and through a luxury delivery service that I will subscribe to as soon as I become a millionaire.

You can visit Joël Thiébault's stall at the Marché du Président Wilson on Wednesday and Saturday mornings, or at the Marché de la rue Gros on Tuesday and Friday mornings. Both markets are located in the 16th. He has also published a handsome book that features his favorite vegetables, with accompanying recipes by his chef-friends.

Note: I don't know the real name of this variety of zucchini; I just named them so in honor of Rudyard Kipling's Just So Stories, which my father used to read to my sister and me at bedtime.

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 Print me! |  Comments (35)
Permalink | Posted by clotilde in Paris City Guide - Vegetables
 Comments (35)

Clotilde, it reminds me of small bananas here in Australia that are dipped in red wax...the two tone ...Chanel-shoe food

Posted by Joan on August 25, 2006 1:41 PM

Joel Thiebault is great, his book is wonderful! With him, you can discover a lot of delicious vegetables!

Posted by Adèle on August 25, 2006 1:58 PM

bi-color squashes are so pretty. if they dry well, they make great center piece arrangements in the fall.

Posted by Connie on August 25, 2006 2:04 PM

Nice pic! It would be great if it could be vanilla and pistacchio!

Posted by est/ouest on August 25, 2006 2:07 PM

I've been getting these as part of my weekly farm share, but I forget what our farmers, Liz and Ben, called them. Perhaps we'll have some in today's bounty. I've taken to tossing them, along with fresh onions, traditional zucchini, baby eggplant, olive oil and fresh herbs in my new grill basket.

We've also gotten some beautiful little bi-colored yellow and green patty pan squashes to stuff and bake.

Posted by Adele on August 25, 2006 2:33 PM

Oh, it is pretty! I've never seen those. They look more like the crook neck yellow squash I grew up eating in Alabama than traditional zucchini.

Posted by Fran on August 25, 2006 11:55 PM

Farmer Ben said it's called Zephyr squash. And they had the little pattypans today, too!

Posted by Adele on August 26, 2006 1:08 AM

I will look for Joel Thiébault's stall at the markets. Thanks for the tip. We'll be staying in the 7th, so it'll be an easy jaunt.

Posted by Mimi J. on August 26, 2006 2:53 AM

Deeeeelicious! I wish they had these in America. So pretty for a bowl too!

Posted by anne f on August 26, 2006 3:16 AM

Ah, a Kipling fan! Elephant's Child was one of my kids' favorite stories. The zucchini are pretty. They would be fun to cut into strips that showed both colors! I was disappointed that the tri-color "green" beans I grew mostly turned green when cooked. Still, pretty in the garden.

Posted by Ellen on August 26, 2006 3:31 AM

I buy a share in a community shared agriculture farm--the idea being shared bounty, shared risk. Each February, you pay into the farm's coming harvest then from June to November, receive a weekly delivery of whatever has grown large and tasty enough to be picked. The farmers bring the veg to a local pick-up spot, where we all meet, weigh out our portions of beets, greens, heirloom tomatoes etc...and zucchini. By the time zucchini season passes I don't think anyone is sad to see the backside of those long green guys--they surely are prolific. We've dubbed them "the vermin of the vegetable patch, like rats slinking around the wharf." But at first (for instance, last Thursday when zucchini made their debut) they are dainty and oddly shaped. I completely understand why, like pretty underpants worn in secret, you were won over by fancy zukes that would ultimately cook down into a delicious yet uniform dish.

Posted by Amanda on August 26, 2006 4:56 AM

I've been buying these beauties for the past couple of years here in No. California. They have almost a nutty taste in comparison to other varieties of summer squash. I prefer them raw or very lightly steamed because their flavor is so delicate. Yum.

Posted by Milinda on August 26, 2006 5:42 AM

I haven't seen those, but just found some gorgeous purple & white striped Eggplants at my local farm stand. They were called "Zebra"...

found a picture here:
http://www.dorights.com/VegetableSigns/pages/Eggplant%20Zebra.htm

Posted by Robin on August 26, 2006 9:04 PM

Ah! I had the same thought as Ellen when you mentioned that you lose the effect as soon as the squash are sliced.

And I'm excited to hear from Milinda that similar squash are available in NoCal. I hope that means they'll make their way to SoCal before too long because the nutty flavor sounds like a great new innovation in summer squash.

When I saw them I thought of the lovely but inedible gourds that will become available here soon.

Posted by rainey on August 27, 2006 1:35 AM

Bonjour!

I thought I recognized Kipling as well...

I've been lurking about reading your blog for many months but am just now getting around to commenting. Your blog is positively inspiring - and one of the few sites I visit pretty much daily.

And after lurking I finally decided to start a blog of my own. It's an addicting little habit, this food blogging stuff!

At any rate, thanks for inspiring me.

Posted by cheftara on August 27, 2006 6:21 AM

This is some beautiful prose, Clotilde.
Was this post a part of your cookbook, which you have chosen to cut ?

Posted by Gorgonzola on August 27, 2006 3:20 PM

Why not name this the Chocolatand Zucchini? Seize the moment!

Posted by Marcus on August 27, 2006 6:57 PM

Oooh, I love the Just So Stories ("I am the cat who walks by himself, and all places are the same to me"). And I'll be in Paris starting this Friday. I'm adding these markets to my humongous list of food-related places to go!

Posted by Lisa on August 28, 2006 5:17 PM

WOW, looks so beautiful! They are completely new to me, nice to learn read about them...! ;) Great name by the way...! Wish Joël Thiébault"s stall was in Holland, or better - I was in Paris (!) =)

Posted by julia on August 28, 2006 6:18 PM

Ravie que tu aimes ce balsamique et merci d'en faire si bon usage...

Bises

Posted by Marianne on August 28, 2006 6:46 PM

Looks like a lemon-lime Zucchini!

Posted by Jeff on August 28, 2006 11:10 PM

These zucchini, oh my best beloved, only grow properly by the banks of the
great grey-green grassy Limpopo river.

Posted by Rose's Lime on August 28, 2006 11:11 PM

play with food! yup... split and grill 'em and stuff 'em to show off the
lil beauty! use salsa verde to fill the yellow part and mango salsa or
roasted yellow peppers to stuff the green part! FUN! =D

Posted by kayenne on August 28, 2006 11:15 PM

gorgeous, this is the first time I have encountered two toned vegetables.
We have the two-toned bananas that Joan mentioned earlier, but they are not
naturally occuring. The zucchini is truly beautiful.

Posted by jenjen on August 28, 2006 11:15 PM

It's a zephyr squash! Aren't they lovely...

Posted by Lou on August 28, 2006 11:16 PM

C'est une courgette Zéphyr, Tarzile a fait une très belle soupe avec l'été
dernier...

Posted by Ester on August 28, 2006 11:16 PM

Yes, it is a hybrid developed by Johnny's Selected Seeds according to one
source. First the Delicata (a small oblong winter squash) and yellow Acorn
were merged. Then, this cross-product was bred with the yellow crookneck.
Zephyr squash are popular in farmers markets in the States.

Posted by Elizabeth on August 28, 2006 11:17 PM

Chanel-shoe food...that's great. Last night at the Blue Plate in SF we had
fried zucchini flowers...do these zephyr's flower

Posted by Cara on August 28, 2006 11:17 PM

Not commenting today, just looking and smiling!

Posted by gingerpale on August 28, 2006 11:18 PM

Bizarre, really bizarre. Though I am holding my breath for the sprite
sponsored lemon-lime.

Posted by conor collins on August 28, 2006 11:18 PM

I think that is a gourd. It is attractive for a bowl but I feel that squash
is probably one of the one horrible tasting vegatables I know. Why pay the
money for something like that? If it looks like a squash, its tastes like a
squash.

Posted by rb on August 28, 2006 11:19 PM

I have quietly loved your blog for two years but today I have to respond!
Your family are so special and your father caught all our imaginations some
time ago. To read you Kipling .... what else? - do tell! My favourite
market stall in Paris is Joel Thiebault - the peppers alone are worth a
story. Combined with a mention of your family it was such a delightful
posting.

Posted by Angela on August 28, 2006 11:19 PM

Here in melbourne, australia I have seen white zucchinis on sale in the market. They looked like paler versions of the regular zucchini, and were stouter in shape. I bought some and used them in a light salad with balsamic vinegar dressing - I thought they tasted a little mild. Has anyone else encountered them? What was your opinion of them?

Posted by andrew on August 31, 2006 5:00 PM

Clothilde

my father is crazy about Kipling - he collects rare editions and took glee
in reading us the just so stories too. I don't think you could meet a man
more kipling than my father is.

I featured those Zephyr squash on my Blogathon day a couple of weeks ago. I
tried to keep the colour feature evident by rolling up the ribbons to top
some crostini:

http://becksposhnosh.blogspot.com/2006/07/marinated-courgette-ribbons-lemon
.html

Posted by sam on August 31, 2006 11:44 PM

given your penchant for zucchini (and really they get such a nasty end of summer the-last-over-talkative-guest-at-the-party-please-go-home reputation since their harvest is so prolific), have a look at the ones my parents grow in their garden - edibletulip.typepad.com. They are simply gorgeous tiny pattypans and they have redeemed the zucchini's name at our local farmer's market! We love them cubed and roasted in the oven with fresh herbs from the garden and chunks of beefsteak tomato tossed in to create a summer stew.

Posted by daphne on September 4, 2006 8:24 PM
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