August 21, 2007
Sorbet Chocolat Noir
[Dark Chocolate Sorbet]
So. Batch #1 in my brand new ice cream machine was dedicated to Maxence, in gratitude for such an exciting, perfectly tailored, and all-around thoughtful gift.
But when the time came to make batch #2 -- that is, the next day, as soon as the bowl had had time to refreeze -- I decided I had paid my dues, and I could now make my favorite, which, you may be un-surprised to learn, is the dark chocolate sorbet.
Chocolate ice cream is all right, I guess*, but I find that the dairy gets in the way of the chocolate. A good sorbet, on the other hand, made with just chocolate, water, and sugar, delivers the sort of undiluted chocolate punch I hunger for, of which one only needs a small amount -- the frozen equivalent of the square of extra-dark, extra-smooth chocolate the doctors prescribe you place on your tongue to melt, each day after lunch.
David's Perfect Scoop
The ice cream churning process seems nothing short of magical, I know, but when it comes to the flavor of your sorbet, it's just you and the ingredients, pal: this sort of preparation can only be as good as the chocolate you put into it. I, however, would be hard pressed to tell you what went into mine, for I took the opportunity to scrape together and use a variety of odds and ends** from almost-but-not-quite-entirely eaten tablets in my chocolate stash.
Martine Lambert's chocolate sorbet is the gold standard by which I judge all chocolate sorbets, and although I wouldn't be so presumptuous as to say mine rivalled hers, I don't think Martine would have scoffed at it, either. (Not to my face anyway.)
My sorbet was splendid as it was, but my next batch will involve, I think, a handful of cacao nibs thrown in as the mixture thickens. An interesting thing to note is that the flavors kept blooming over the next few days -- just like those of a dark chocolate cake will -- and that the texture remained perfectly smooth. This can be explained, I imagine, by the cocoa butter in the chocolate***.
Needless to say, my dark chocolate sorbet went terrifically well with Maxence's mango sorbet.
~~~
* Oh my god, did she just say, "Chocolate ice cream is all right I guess"? Nurse!
** In my family we call those rataillons, as in: "Il reste du fromage?" "Bof, juste des rataillons." It is a regional expression, from Provence I am told, so sometimes I use it and people look at me funny.
*** On the subject of texture, I will add that placing a piece of plastic wrap directly on the surface of the ice cream or sorbet efficiently prevents the formation of ice crystals.
Sorbet Chocolat Noir
275 mL (1 cup + 2 tablespoons) water
40g (1/3 cup, packed) unsweetened Dutch-process cocoa powder
100g (1/2 cup) sugar
85g (3 ounces) bittersweet chocolate (70% cocoa solids), chopped as finely as your patience allows
1/4 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
A pinch of salt
Makes about 1/2 liter (1/2 quart); the recipe can be doubled.
Pre-freeze the bowl of your ice cream maker as instructed by your friend the manufacturer.
In a medium saucepan, whisk together the water, cocoa powder, and sugar. Set the pan over medium heat and bring to a boil, whisking continually. Remove from heat, and add the chopped chocolate. Let rest for 30 seconds as the chocolate begins to melt, add the vanilla and salt, then stir until the chocolate is completely melted. Let cool on the counter, then refrigerate until chilled.
Whisk the mixture again just before using, and freeze using your ice cream maker.
Adapted from The Perfect Scoop
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~ Super Simple Nutella Ice Cream
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~ Mango Sorbet
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Comments (44)
Permalink | Posted by clotilde in Ice Cream - Recipe Inside!
Ha! I *knew* this (the chocolate version) was coming! I expected it about halfway down the page in the Mango Sorbet post, but you've given it a day and place of its own.
Posted by gingerpale on August 21, 2007 8:12 PMThat picture is gonna make people faint!
What a rich dessert. It looks quite decadent. I wouldn't mind having some of that right now, in fact ...
Posted by Kelly Mahoney on August 21, 2007 8:16 PMI could have died when i saw this!
Posted by Rhonda on August 21, 2007 8:21 PMYou are always an inspiration Clotilde! I have two ice cream makers now. One was a wedding gift and the other is an attachment for my l'Aide de Cuisine that someone regifted to me. I must get working! I have tried the coffee ice cream recipe from "The Perfect Scoop"- fantastic! The combo of the chocolate and mango sorbets sounds wonderful but I have a recipe that is an imitation of the salted caramel ice cream from Berthillon that has been burning a hole in my pocket so they might have to wait.
Posted by paperbackwriter on August 21, 2007 8:27 PMI don't even know how to communicate my reaction upon seeing these pictures and reading this post - I sat here in disbelief and kept repeating "whoa" to myself. This is a sorbet after my own heart - dark chocolate is far superior!
Posted by Hillary on August 21, 2007 8:45 PMIce cream makers are strangely addictive, aren't they? My nephew and I want to make it every day. Does the sorbet make it lighter than a heavy rich dark chocolate gelatto?
Posted by wendy on August 21, 2007 8:59 PMMy next salary is still one week away, and I spent so much money during the holidays... But hey, after reading this, who's looking into buying an ice cream maker????!!!!!
Posted by Mar on August 21, 2007 9:16 PMI am thrilled that you got your ice cream maker within a week of when I got mine as a wedding gift (same book too!). My first batch was the blackcurrant tea ice cream, then the coffee frozen yoghurt, then your mango sorbet. I'd resolved that the next would be caramel au beurre salé, but I don't have a good recipe and this chocolat looks divine. I have almost everything needed, including a pre-frozen bowl, waiting for me at home. While my new husband rides Paris-Brest-Paris I will whip up treats to reward him when he gets home! Hurray!
Posted by Charlotte on August 21, 2007 9:18 PMa woman after my own heart! the darker and richer the chocolate the better. I think I NEED that sorbet
Posted by Paula on August 21, 2007 9:42 PMMy next recipe from Perfect Scoop was going to be the chocolate ice cream, but I think I may head off in the direction of chocolate sorbet . . .
Posted by tut-tut on August 21, 2007 10:31 PMWhere I come from (Avignon) we call them odds and ends "rogatons"... I too get funny looks from my Parisian friends ;-)
Posted by Elodie on August 21, 2007 10:33 PMI know what I'll be doing tomorrow. I just put the ice cream maker bowl in the freezer. Honestly with all the flavanoids from the dark chocolate I think it's vaguely healthy.
Posted by Mary on August 21, 2007 10:45 PMThe pic is so great ! I really need an ice cream maker :-)
Posted by Deli on August 21, 2007 10:50 PMWhat restraint it must have taken to make this your second, rather than first batch of sorbet!! I absolutely agree with you about the superiority of chocolate sorbet to chocolate ice cream... but not having a sorbetiere I shall have to wait til my next visit to Berthillon. *sigh* (speaking of Berthillon, my favourite flavour combination there is bitter chocolate and blood orange sorbet - maybe you'll want to give that a whirl when blood oranges are in season...)
Posted by Rachel on August 21, 2007 10:57 PMyour other half likes milk chocolate? and that pure fat they call white chocolate? yuck. more for you i suppose!
Posted by Neuralgia on August 21, 2007 11:09 PMIt is true that a true chocoholic takes their chocolate in dark form, unabashed, naked from the distractions of extra sugar, milk or cocoa butter. That sorbet looks sooo good.
B
Posted by B on August 22, 2007 12:17 AMI love the idea of deep chocolate sorbet combined with mango. I had some fantastic melon sorbet at a restaurant on Sunday; when fruit is truly ripe it makes such fabulous sorbets and ices.
Posted by casey on August 22, 2007 12:49 AMDid you get to taste Il Laboratorio's chocolate sorbet while in New York?
Posted by ParisBreakfasts on August 22, 2007 1:51 AMPretty damn good!
I do not dare allow myself to get an ice cream maker...I do not dare...
I do wonder about the Dutched cocoa in preference to unDutched..?
I will try Martines..at least it won't be sitting in the freezer available..
I recently made these chocolate sable cookies that I learned about from foodbeam.com, and I think they would work well baked as one big sheet of brownie and then crumbled up and mixed in your sorbet. Someone please restrain me!
Posted by Michael Natkin on August 22, 2007 7:04 AMa thousand times YES!!!
Posted by Joan on August 22, 2007 7:39 AMYour sorbet looks amazing and I'm glad you're getting the most from your gift (and occasionally Maxence, as well.)
Although I'm no fan of hauling out extra equipment, I blend the mixture to ensure the chocolate and cocoa powder are smooth.
Congrads on your sweet...and easified...success!
Posted by David on August 22, 2007 8:44 AMYour image is divine! I was ready to get my spoon out and dig into my screen!
Posted by Mari on August 22, 2007 1:32 PMi've yet to purchase the attachment for my KA, but i won't let that stop me... nothing that some ice cubes, rock salt and a strong arm can't resolve! i shall have my ice cream!
Posted by kayenne on August 22, 2007 4:44 PMjust an additional thought... i've always loved hazelnuts with dark chocolate... how about adding some shaved(yes, labor intensive!), roasted hazelnuts(or even macadamia!) in this dark chocolate sorbet? heavenly!
Posted by kayenne on August 22, 2007 4:54 PMI had a dream about this sorbet last night (seriously), but in my dream I added a little bit of orange to it. I'm going to take this as a sign and add some orange zest or orange oil. Yum!
Posted by Mary on August 22, 2007 10:00 PMIs there a French equivalent of Cambro tubs? Seems like there must be something with an airtight, snap-on lid. I have great luck storing my ice cream in .5 and 2.0 liter Cambros.
Posted by rainey on August 23, 2007 12:13 AMlord lord lord...my heart stopped when i saw the picture
Posted by ninabruha on August 23, 2007 1:02 PMThe sorbet looks dreamy! And creamy even tough it doesn't have any milk/cream. Just wonderful.
Posted by Cenk on August 23, 2007 4:26 PMI made this sorbet last night - I deperately want to buy David Lebovitz's book but am trying to hold off as long as possible, so I was tickled pink to be able to work off of your recipe.
I, too, made a small recipe, assuming that my husband wouldn't like it. Unfortunately, he loves it, which means it will be gone in half the time!
Anyway, I made it using plain old Hershey's unsweetened cocoa (bought it at Safeway and am pleased to finally justify the purchase!). I am not sure if that is Dutch processed or not. I used a 70% cocoa chocolate bar by Green & Black's Organic.
I think it is true that the real crux of this sorbet (and all chocolate featured items) is the quality of the main chocolate. I thought of the Hershey's cocoa and it's mixture as a base for the delicious dark chocolate.
As always with my ice cream maker, the sorbet I scrape off the blade is much softer and meltier than that which is in the bowl, so when I combine them into my tupperware it needs a bit of stirring and refreezing to all come together.
But who cares when it is that delicious? Such a fantastic way to highlight the chocolate! I am really going to need to make more this weekend.
YUM!
Posted by Kristin on August 23, 2007 7:08 PMThe mango sorbet was delicious so I couldn't resist making this one too. Despite being a plain chocolate fan I've never even heard of chocolate sorbet before.
I'll have to look up what Dutch-process cocoa powder is all about too, I used plain old Cadbury's out of the cupboard.
Based on licking the bowl out this is yummy, can't wait to have some "properly" tomorrow.
Thanks!
Posted by kirsty on August 24, 2007 12:01 AMargh... my mother throws away my sister's old ice cream maker few days ago.
thanks for all the recipes Clothilde, I'm now spreading my addiction to your blog around me :-)
Posted by Anne on August 24, 2007 3:39 PMI'm making my first recipe from Perfect Scoop tonight! I went with the roasted banana flavor. It's all mixed and chilling now. I also made the cajeta sauce to layer in ... whoa, that is caramel heaven in a spoon.
Posted by Emily on August 24, 2007 8:04 PMI made this with Ghiradelli un-dutched cocoa and it turned out fantastic. I'm not certain that it matters all that much. Perhaps in baking, but for sorbet?
Posted by Mary on August 24, 2007 9:24 PMThe Sorbet Chocolat Noir was wonderful. My wife made it and it was a hit. Can't wait totry more of your recipes. Love your site.
Posted by Salvatore on August 25, 2007 12:28 AMpaperbackwriter writes "I have a recipe that is an imitation of the salted caramel ice cream from Berthillon" ...
Posted by sara on August 26, 2007 4:13 PMPLEASE SHARE IT WITH US!!!
Yes, paperbackwriter, please share!
Posted by Abigail Menard on August 26, 2007 9:08 PMI tried the chocolate sorbet from the Perfect Scoop and it was good, smooth and creamy-more like an ice cream as opposed to a sorbet. My favorite chocolate sorbet is from epicurious.com and is more like a fudgesicle. The ingredients are:
2 cups water
3/4 cups sugar
1/2 cup cocoa powder (preferably Dutch process)
1 1/2 teaspoons instant espresso powder
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Just so you can compare-after all there can't be too much chocolate sorbet can there?
Thank you Clotilde; we made the sorbet and after just one scoop decided we had finally reached nirvana (it was good!). You remain a constant inspiration.
Posted by Mats Flemstrom on August 27, 2007 4:08 PMMats
Re: the salted butter caramel ice cream. I am not sure about posting recipes and copyright and such... the recipe is easy to find though! David Lebovitz's blog is worth reading anyway (he is the author of "The Perfect Scoop"). Just search the ice cream section and you'll see the recipe! Bonne chance!
Posted by paperbackwriter on August 27, 2007 9:50 PMwhen I saw that picture I just knew that I MUST try this recipe and truth be told its absolutely wonderful! deep and dark just the way I like my chocolates! Chack out my blog so see how I did with this chocolate sorbet :)
Posted by SimplePleasures on August 28, 2007 4:29 AMi can't wait to try this sorbet, especially with all organic products, what a treat! BTW, I made the beef bourguignon from the book. What a wonderful and rich recipe!
Posted by heather vigliotti on September 5, 2007 2:35 AMchocolate AND zucchini sorbet next ? (!)
Posted by molly on September 9, 2007 6:02 AMI've been at our summer cabin catching the call of each fruit as it ripens and whirling it into a sorbet. My freezer always has at least two or three sorbets icing at a time. I still use Lenotre's recipe for sorbet and have for years but I'm going to check out Leibovitz to see what's cooking. My chocolate sorbet recipe adds another dimension to the one above. Try adding the zest of a tree ripened orange and replace 1/4 cup of the water with orange juice. Double word score!
Posted by Deirdre on September 9, 2007 7:54 AMSo very annoyed. I made up the mixture, chilled it ovenight like a good little girl, then when I went to churn it the next day, I found that my icecream maker was broken! And it was a public holiday here so there was no-one around to fix it!
Posted by mrspotatohead on September 9, 2007 8:28 AMI'm so disappointed! The mixture tasted absolutely fantastic. I have tried to freeze it using the old manual method (over 7 hours of freezing, then blending) so we will see if that has worked....
Wow, thanks for posting this. This is a mostly vegan's dream come true. I made some today. No ice cream maker, so I froze it in a shallow plastic container for a few hours, then mixed it in a food processor, put it back in the container, where it was supposed to freeze overnight, but I couldn't wait that long to try it. SO GOOD. Thank you!
Posted by monica on September 22, 2007 11:10 PMPrivacy. The email addresses you enter will not be used for any other purpose than the sending of this message.