October 23, 2007
Glace aux Deux Figues
[Two-Fig Ice Cream]
The fig season seems intent on lasting forever this fall: it is now late October, yet produce stalls still boast plentiful trays of purple figs, soft at the hips and oft leaking a drop of sap from their, um, bottom. Of course, they cost an eye -- figs are a luxury in Paris any time of the year -- but the fig fanatic in me is willing to make any sort of monetary sacrifice to fuel my addiction.
But, lo and behold, my supermarket was offering an all-things-considered good price on Solliès figs the other day, and it was just the excuse I needed to make fig ice cream for a dinner party we were hosting.
Because I wasn't entirely sure how my figs rated on the flavor scale -- I tasted one and gave it a 6, but statisticians may agree that a sample of one fig isn't enough to draw any sort of conclusion regarding the entire population -- I decided to take an insurance policy by throwing in a few dried figs, to sustain the overall flavor.
Many a blogger has been heard raving about the fig ice cream in the ice cream guru's book, and I myself used the recipe as a guide, modifying it to include dried figs, and use agave syrup as a sweetener, Greek-style yogurt in place of cream, and Limoncello instead of lemon juice*.
And well, you may now count me among those who can serenade all night about the unctuosity and vividness of this ice cream -- a little bit like my neighbor from across the courtyard, who I wish would either shut her window or sing something other than Natalie Imbruglia
And before we part, I will add this: when I first looked at the picture of this ice cream in David's book, I knit my brow and puckered my lips into a dubitative pout (please take a moment to picture this). Could fig ice cream turn out this purple? But now that I've made it myself -- and I promise I did not fiddle with the colors in the picture above -- I'm here to tell you that, yes, fig ice cream can turn out this purple. Or more accurately in my case, pinkish purple, the kind of ice cream you wouldn't mind smearing all over your white shirt, so lovely the color is.
* David Lebovitz explains that a little alcohol helps ice cream remain soft.
Glace aux Deux Figues
- 100 grams (3 1/2 ounces) dried figs, about 4
- 900 grams (2 pounds) fresh and ripe purple figs, about 18 medium
- 1 organic lemon
- 70 grams (1/3 cup, packed) unrefined brown cane sugar (I used muscovado)
- 70 grams (1/4 cup) agave syrup (if unavailable, just use 140 grams or 2/3 cup cane sugar)
- 150 grams (5 fl.oz.) Greek-style yogurt
- 1 tablespoon Limoncello or lemon juice
Makes about 1 liter (1 quart).
Pre-freeze the bowl of your ice cream machine as instructed by the manufacturer.
Trim the tip of the dried figs' stems. Place the dried figs in a heatproof bowl and cover with boiling water. Set aside to plump up for 15 minutes. Drain and quarter the dried figs.
Trim the tip of the fresh figs' stems and cut the fruits into quarters. In a medium non-reactive saucepan, combine the fresh figs with 125 ml (1/2 cup) fresh water, and zest the lemon directly over the saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, cover, and cook for 6 minutes, stirring regularly. Add the dried figs and cook, covered, for another 3 minutes.
Add the sugar and agave syrup, stir to combine, and cook, uncovered, until the mixture thickens to a jam-like consistency, about 15 minutes, stirring frequently. Let cool completely. (This can be prepared a day in advance. Cover and chill.)
Purée the fig mixture in a food processor until smooth. Add the yogurt and limoncello, and mix thoroughly. Taste and add a little more limoncello if desired. Chill thoroughly, and churn in your ice cream maker. Transfer to a freezer-friendly container, and apply a piece of plastic wrap directly on the surface of the ice cream to prevent the formation of water crystals.
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French version
| Posted by clotilde in
Ice Cream
- Recipe Inside!
A drop or two of rose water might not go amiss in this. As the ice cream warmed up as you ate it, this would probably give a gorgeous perfume as being very volatile it would start to evaporate quicker than the other ingredients.
If I recall my school chemistry correctly, alcohol keeps ices etc soft because it has a much, much lower freezing point than water, so it doesn't solidify in a domestic freezer.
Posted by Eleanor Cawston on October 23, 2007 8:44 PMI love the idea of using Greek yogurt (my favorite). And figs...mmmmm.
Posted by Dana on October 23, 2007 9:12 PMCongratulations on the mention of your book in the current issue of Gourmet!
Posted by Cheryl on October 23, 2007 9:16 PMA lovely colour indeed!
By the way, I'm really enjoying your new French version of C&Z. It's a great way to practice my French and it's interesting to note the slight differences in the references you use, etc.
Posted by Sheena S. on October 23, 2007 9:33 PMIt seems I'm going to have to buy this book. I've been putting it off for WAY too long! I really like your adaptations to the recipe. Did the dry figs ensure the true fig flavor or did the figs on sale suffice?
Posted by Hillary on October 23, 2007 9:42 PMOh how I wish my supermarket would run a special on figs! I can't even fondle them, they're all wrapped in plastic. Pout.
Posted by Charlotte on October 23, 2007 10:18 PMMore food science fun: the alcohol will depress/lower the freezing point, which is what helps the ice cream remain soft. It's especially useful to soak fruit in alcohol before freezing so as to avoid tooth-breakingly hard pieces.
Posted by Christy on October 23, 2007 10:41 PMAll of your ice cream posts have made me long for an ice cream maker, but none more so than this one (and remember, this is someone who is mad about mango, coconut and chocolate)! You've also made me feel very nostalgic for when I lived in France and could buy big plastic boxes of figs from the supermarket for a relatively reasonable price... in the UK they invariably come by the piece and at a much higher price. *sigh*
Posted by Rachel on October 23, 2007 10:53 PMHow incredibly delcious that looks. The color is exquisite. I, too, love the idea of using yogurt.
Posted by casey on October 23, 2007 11:26 PMNow if only I could be eating it in Paris.
I've never posted a comment here(was too intimidated!). But when you posted a link to my blog, I had to come out of my hiding!
Posted by Nabeela on October 24, 2007 1:40 AMLovely, lovely color of the ice cream....wish my figs were that purple *sigh*
This looks like such a wonderful fresh and light dessert. I was happy to see the use of the agave syrup. I have been trying it out in a few things. Now I know it is also good in ice creams.
Posted by StickyGooeyCreamyChewy on October 24, 2007 4:30 AMdelicious! in Dalmatia w do not have lots of purple figs but manly green ones, but I'll definitely try to find some purple figs just to try this recipe. I saw it already at Beck&Posh's and every time it made want to jump into picture and just ate it!
Posted by Sanja on October 24, 2007 10:28 AMDavid's book is quite wonderful isn't it? I've recently made a lime granita adapted from his book. And I love your use of limoncello in this recipe.
Posted by Marvin on October 24, 2007 5:35 PMit does look seriously pink to me... and yes, a lovely shade! one that i love to wear! =D
the only purple ice cream i can so far accept is the local purple yam "ube" ice cream. YUMMY!
this post seriously reinforces my hope to buy myself the KA ice cream maker bowl for christmas. then perhaps i can justify buying david's book that i often see teasing me at the bookstore.
Posted by kayenne on October 24, 2007 6:01 PMJ'adore les figues, hélas difficile d'en trouver à cette saison du côté de Munich!
Posted by Flo Bretzel on October 24, 2007 7:48 PMI'm left wondering if it's possible to adapt this recipe for making it in a VitaMix. I've made sorbets from frozen fruit in it, but haven't yet tried actual ice cream. (Oh how I wish I had a larger kitchen to store and use fancy equipment...)
Posted by Jamie on October 24, 2007 10:19 PMBonjour Clotilde, ton blog est LE blog qui m'a fait découvrir l'univers des blogs de cuisine. Il est très sympa et j'aime beaucoup te lire en anglais (je révise un peu comme cela). Je me suis, sur tes conseils, inscrite aux cours de cuisine traditionnelle à paris mais je n'ai pas été retenue, sniff ! ah oui et j'étais à san francisco en mai, j'ai raté ton book signing à 1 journée près dommage !
Posted by Gourmeline on October 24, 2007 10:39 PMI would never think to do figs and ice cream, but I'm pumped now. However, I think the color hooked me more than the fig. I would paint a room that purple, left to my own devices. And, I just received my very first ice cream maker, so it's time to Christen it...
Posted by cheeseandchoux on October 25, 2007 4:39 AMWell done! I even will use recipe in my kitchen, that great it is.
Kind Regards from Dubai, Chris
Posted by SugarHead on October 25, 2007 5:37 PMQuelles belles couleures!
I have a purple fig tree in my front yard and can't wait to try your recipe. Thanks for the idea about the rose water first commenter :)
Posted by jen on October 25, 2007 9:58 PMIt's actually practically impossible to freeze alcohol under normal conditions. Russian peasants used to improve the cheap vodka they were able to buy by leaving the bottle in the snow behind their houses. The water would freeze, trapping the impurities and the almost pure alcohol remaining could then be poured off and thinned with pure water. There were even a few deaths from people to drank the ice cold alcohol without thinning it properly or allowing it to warm. It froze their throats shut.
Posted by Chubbypanda on October 25, 2007 10:11 PMI recently enjoyed a fig gelato with pistachios, which was heavenly. Now, I'm tempted to make your recipe to enjoy at home.
Posted by Susan from Food Blogga on October 26, 2007 2:15 AMThat's a beautiful color in that dessert.
Posted by Kelly Mahoney on October 26, 2007 2:35 AMI too, have been contemplating putting an ice cream maker on my Christmas list, and I think this confirms it! I LOVE figs, and recently wrote a blog entry about them myself. My grandfather grew them in his backyard.....if I only apprecated them as a kid! What I would do now to be transported back to that yard as he gently plucked the figs from the tree! He handled them with such care, like they were precious gifts-----and as an adult, I can finally appreciate that. He would have turned 99 on Tuesday had he still been alive! Here's to figs and my Grandpa Rizzo! :)
Posted by The Secret Ingredient on October 26, 2007 4:49 AMI love this recipe because I love figs too!! The curios is about two days I make a recipe with figs too.!! but is differente because is a poppy seed's mousse with Figs'jam, only I think in the blog sometimes we think similar. Gloria
Posted by gloria on October 26, 2007 6:39 PMI love you blog.
Gorgeous!
When are you going to make an ice cream using your spiced chocolate peanut butter? Yum.
Posted by paperbackwriter on October 26, 2007 11:37 PMMmm figs! Your recipe looks and sounds yummy. I love figs with mascarpone so I may try to tinker. I do have a bone to pick with you though, Clotilde. You don't seem to have done your homework on the rose ice cream you mentioned about a month ago. I suppose I'll just have to be patient. It's not too great a hardship when I've got all your other wonderful recipes to keep me going.
Posted by Francesca on October 27, 2007 1:28 AMSeeing all the figs here in Paris made me think of Astoria, NY oddly enough, where figs are a major Fall arrival. They come in all colors and forms and are often boxed 12 at a time - perfect for making batches of ice cream I suppose.
Posted by parisbreakfasts on October 27, 2007 6:33 AMYou have some really nice recipes...especially intrigued by the Chocolate Zucchini one which I shall give a try soon. You and your chocolaholic readers will also enjoy the creative college student baker. she has some really appetizing chocolate recipes and photos including her yummy Brown-ka-roons! Check it out! By the way...."Chocolateshow" is coming to New York City on November 10-13. You may know that it is modeled after the famous Salon du Chocolat in Paris!
Posted by The Bannker on October 27, 2007 4:10 PMI live in SF so we're big on figs here, going to have to try this out!
Posted by savor on October 28, 2007 9:04 AMHave never tried it with the limcello but am sure that that gives it a nice little kick!
Posted by niall on October 28, 2007 5:42 PMHi Clotilde,
Posted by Robert on October 28, 2007 9:48 PMLove this fig idea. Just thought you'd like to know black figs freeze and keep well for months. My grandmother used this trick to extend the season on her mission fig tree in california. Pick at prime (or buy), wash, cut in quarters and arrange on a cookie sheet. Place in freezer and once fully frozen, put in zipper bags to store. I've also been known to just dice up leftovers and freeze them when making fig jam and the bounty is too much for the recipe. Ive got 8 cups in the freezer right now pending my next fig adventure.
Forget to mention...
Posted by Robert on October 28, 2007 9:50 PMall that purple comes from the dark skin. If you make the mistake of peeling your figs, you will get nothing but wimpy pink. Same goes for fig jam. All the wonderful color comes from that black mission fig skin.
I have a fig addiction too and I thank you for this recipe! I adore the color of the ice cream.
Posted by Amy on October 30, 2007 9:15 PMHi Clotilde,
Posted by Lynh on October 31, 2007 12:54 PMthis looked so good that even though it was freezing this weekend, I dragged my boyfriend to Il Laboratorio del Gelato to have, of course, fig gelato.
It was awesome, though not as purple as yours. It made my cup. (fig and their milk chocolate malt flavor go together really well).
And my boyfriend almost agreed that fig + chocolate gelato on a cold day was better than a cup of hot chocolate would have been... huge thanks for the fun weekend idea.
I've had an electric ice cream maker for almost twenty years and it is fantastic. I've never tried figs since they have only recently arrived in this part of Canada. However, a maple ice cream sounds like the next venture.
Posted by BC on October 31, 2007 2:28 PMa friend of mine said the same thing to me in trader joe's not too long ago. i replied, "i suppose they heard me whisper little love messages to them as i gently place them in my cart week after week."
i need help i think.
Posted by scott on November 2, 2007 1:53 AMThis looks incredible! I love figs and will have to try your recipe.
Posted by Paige on November 3, 2007 4:10 PMOh, for fresh figs!
Posted by Kieran on November 6, 2007 12:11 PMPrivacy. The email addresses you enter will not be used for any other purpose than the sending of this message.