September 22, 2008
Roasted Eggplant and Goat's Milk Yogurt Dip
When I recovered my kitchen after seven weeks (seven! weeks!) of renovation chaos -- and this was just to redo the bathroom, mind you -- the very first thing I made was a yogurt cake, to fortify us through our next mission: the meticulous cleaning of, well, the entire contents of our apartment, which we had ill-protected from the dust storm. (Never again will we underestimate plaster and tile.)
And as soon as our home regained a sense of cleanliness and harmony, I was able to pick up my cooking life where I'd left it seven weeks (seven! weeks!) earlier, and -- oh, the bliss -- return to the Batignolles farmers' market. "Where have you been all summer?" my produce vendor asked, as I went on a bit of a vegetable shopping spree.
I rode home on a cloud, unloaded my baskets into my squeaky-clean vegetable drawers (I'd also scoured the fridge while I was at it), and started to plot ways to use my loot. Of particular concern to me were the fist-sized eggplants I had fallen for, so shiny you could use them as pocket mirrors (handy when the contractor has yet to afix the mirror above the bathroom sink).
You see, I am hopeless with eggplant. The only way eggplants and I get along is when I reaffirm my authority by roasting the living daylight out of them. I usually go on to make my neighbor Stephan's eggplant caviar, the recipe for which is featured in my first book, but I was in the mood to try something a little different this time.
Coincidentally, I had just received a review copy of Janna Gur's Book of New Israeli Food, an enticing book that's as much about the food as it is about the people and daily life of Israel. And on page 28, the author quotes an Arab adage that made me laugh: "If your future bride can't prepare eggplant fifty different ways -- don't marry her," it says.
Janna Gur goes on to give about a dozen, which is a lot more than most cooks have in their repertoire, I daresay, yet still leaves them to do a bit more research if they are to be ready when an Arab prince comes to whisk them away.
Among Gur's suggestions are eight mini-recipes for dips and salads that involve just a few ingredients, and because I had goat's milk yogurt in the fridge, the one that tempted me most was the Roasted Eggplant with Yogurt. It went something like this, "add 2 cups yogurt to the flesh of 2 roasted eggplants; add crushed garlic, salt, black pepper, and, optionally, chopped mint and coriander leaves."
I ended up preparing mine a bit differently -- see recipe below -- and was delighted with the use of yogurt, which gives the dip a rich, creamy texture, yet keeps it light and tangy. Eggplants are scheduled stick around for just a little while longer before fall begins in earnest, and this is a fine way to bid them farewell.
Roasted Eggplant and Goat's Milk Yogurt Dip
- 850 grams (30 ounces) eggplants, the smaller the better
- one clove garlic, peeled
- 120 ml (1/2 cup) goat's milk yogurt (substitute sheep's milk yogurt or plain Greek-style yogurt)
- ground cumin, to taste*
- ground chile pepper, to taste*
- salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste*
- a large handful of fresh cilantro leaves (a.k.a. coriander in some parts of the world), finely snipped
Makes about 240 ml (1 cup).
Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F). Place the eggplants in a single layer in a shallow baking dish (or a rimmed baking sheet lined with foil), and prick them in a few places with a fork. Cut a small slit in the most bulbous part of one eggplant and slip the garlic clove inside. Roast for 50 minutes to 1 hour, until completely soft, turning the eggplants 2 or 3 times during the baking.
Set aside in a colander until cool enough to handle. Transfer each eggplant in turn on a cutting board. Cut a deep slit down the length of the eggplant to open it wide, and scrape the flesh using a wooden spoon. Discard the stem and skin, set the flesh aside (be sure to recover the garlic clove), and repeat with the remaining eggplants.
In the bowl of a food processor or blender**, combine the eggplant flesh, garlic, and yogurt, and season with cumin, chile pepper, salt, and black pepper. Process in short pulses until smooth. Fold in the cilantro, taste, and adjust the seasoning.
Cover and refrigerate for a few hours, if possible, to allow the flavors to develop. Serve with pita bread, or, in our case, fresh baguette. This also makes a fine sandwich/tartine spread, or a side to lamb meatballs or grilled fish.
* I've deliberately left out the measurements for the spices and seasonings: how much you need depends on how flavorful your eggplants and yogurt are, and on your personal preference. Start small, taste, and work your way up as needed.
** If you don't own either, you can mash everything with a fork ; the texture will be chunkier and less dip-able, but it will still be good.
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Comments (28)
Permalink | Posted by clotilde in Jams & Dips - Recipe Inside!
Seven weeks! I wholly relate to the restorative power of cooking. I've been unexpectedly away from home recently, and cooking was the one thing that could restore the rhythm of my life. It was how I knew I was home again.
Yogurt is such a soothing thing, too -- a great choice for a reunion-with-the-kitchen recipe. Since I've got vibrant purple eggplants teeming from the garden, I'll just have to give this one a go.
Glad you're back in the kitchen!
Posted by Becky and the Beanstock on September 22, 2008 3:43 PMMmm, I love eggplant and this sounds highly addictive.
Congratulations on getting your kitchen back. I was without one for a month while we were moving and can sympathise.
Posted by Erin on September 22, 2008 6:07 PM50 ways to prepare eggplant! I have been struggling all summer to figure out what to do with it...
Posted by Jen on September 22, 2008 6:30 PMMuch too long to be without a kitchen! A lovely dish and the goat's milk yogurt is a great dimension to this.
--Marc
Posted by chefectomy on September 22, 2008 7:07 PMClotilde,
It's glorious to see you back in the kitchen! Thank you for sharing this new recipe. I can eat a whole roasted eggplant in one sitting and I'm excited to have a new way of incorporating it into my menu book.
Kasey
Posted by Kasey on September 22, 2008 7:11 PMOne of my favorite restaurant dishes is Thai green curry with eggplant. I'm bound and determined to recreate it at home! Your post has inspired me to give it a go.
Posted by Dawn in CA on September 22, 2008 7:28 PMfifty different ways?! blimey! She would be a better woman than I, that is for sure. I also suck at aubergine and I nearly always roast it as you do. I say baba ganoush is a 'speciality' just so I can always get away with making it when I have aubergines. They lend themselves best to dips I think as that texture can go oh so wrong so easily. The only thing that might make them worse when they go wrong is perhaps a little plaster dust as garnish...
Posted by Helen on September 22, 2008 8:16 PMThanks for this- I love eggplant and will make this soon.
Posted by tokyoastrogirl on September 22, 2008 10:32 PMGhillie Basan in Flavours of Morocco has a recipe for candied eggplant. The eggplant used are a small rounded variety which I have never seen here in Australia.
Posted by barbara on September 23, 2008 12:22 AMFifty ways! Good thing I'm not Arab or I'd have never gotten married! ;)
The dip looks heavenly! I love roasted eggplant and this would be very popular at my house!
Posted by Susan at Sticky,Gooey,Creamy,Chewy on September 23, 2008 12:39 AMi too, have a fear of cooking eggplant. usually too mushy or too spongy - but this seems like the perfect cure my recent culinary disappointments. welcome back to your kitchen!
Posted by andrea on September 23, 2008 12:46 AM"Start small, taste, and work your way up as needed."
Smart advice Clotilde!
Can taste the flavours as I read the words..anything with coriander and I'm there!
Eggplant is also lovely in a pasta sauce..with capers..cream...
The mirror eggplant made me smile!
Bet your kitchen is beside itself with joy to have you back!
Posted by Joan on September 23, 2008 3:18 AMMmm. I have a thing for eggplant. Am running out now for eggplant and yogurt... and cumin!
Posted by Pearl on September 23, 2008 8:02 AMThis recipe sounds very good and very healthy. The only way my mother ever made eggplant was to peel it, slice thinly, dip in egg and then fine cracker crumbs. This would then be fried in vegetable oil. It is still my favorite way to eat eggplant, altho' I have to agree with my husband, that when it's made that way, it is just a vehicle for transferring fat to your body. But occasionally, what's wrong with that?
Posted by Eileen on September 23, 2008 3:34 PMOr, just grill eggplant rounds and smear the balance of the ingredients on top while still warm. In our house that's called eggplant salad.
Posted by Carol on September 23, 2008 4:47 PMI never know what to do with eggplant. I am bookmarking this right now. Congrats on getting your kitchen back, too! Just in time for fall.
Posted by maggie on September 23, 2008 5:05 PMI am also very afraid of eggplant -- any stir fry or curry invariably gets bitter -- but this dip, I can do. It looks delicious. Yay on getting your kitchen back (and I hope the new bathroom is lovely).
Posted by City Girl on September 23, 2008 5:41 PMthe recipe looks great---and i do love the color, texture, and taste of eggplant. however, even cooked, eggplant doesn't like me. when i eat eggplant it feels like acid is itching the inside of my mouth. so if anyone can give me an idea on how to cook eggplant to elimanate this sensation, i would greatly appreciate it! anything else in the eggplant family i can eat--some raw and some cooked.
Posted by jonquil on September 23, 2008 6:10 PMCongrats on getting your kitchen back, I can imagine how frustrating that must have been! The dip looks delicious; I've been making a lot of aubergine caviar this summer and I'm glad to have a variation on the theme to add to my repertoire. Another variation worth trying is the Spanish picada de pez de tierra (the aubergine is sauteed, seasoned with smoked paprika and coriander, and pureed). And if you can get hold of the little green Thai aubergines, definitely give green curry a go!
Posted by Rachel on September 23, 2008 6:15 PMI'm so impressed that you lasted 7 weeks! I get stressed if I'm banished from my kitchen for 7 hours.....
This recipe looks so healthy and good. Plus, it will be a nice variation instead of making the same old Baba Ganouj that I always make. I don't know why I have a hundred variations for hummus and non for BG! Thank you!
Posted by Tina - Choosy Beggars on September 23, 2008 8:40 PMhaha, being an Arab I cracked up when I read the adage - so true!!! I like to make my baba ganoush by roasting the eggplants on top of my gas burner. I find that this chars the skin a lot more quickly (about 10 minutes) and the inside remains light in color. Also, if you ever get tired of the goat yogurt (which is my aunt's favorite way of eating her eggplant dip), definitely try it with some pomegranate molasses and pomegranate juice (my favorite way)!!
Posted by Tony on September 23, 2008 9:39 PMYou have a really awesome blog!!
Your recipe reminds me of the Caviar d'Aubergine I learned to make with a Lebanese friend. Pretty much the same ingredients, plus Sesame Cream. Miam! I made some last Sunday and we had it as an appetizer.
Posted by Laura on September 24, 2008 10:42 AMI roasted some eggplant the other day and have a container of cold goo in the fridge awaiting inspiration, until now. Thanks.
Posted by Marcy on September 25, 2008 9:57 PMI too have some cold mushy eggplant in my 'fridge' having baked it after getting home from the market today. I plan to make Spicy Thai dip with it. It's my latest favorite recipe for eggplant. I will admit, though that I love eggplant in any guise.
Posted by mim on September 26, 2008 3:02 AMThis sounds heavenly. I have lately become addicted to goats milk yogurt - it is so tasty! I have a recipe that I love with eggplant from Vij's Indian cookbook (an amazing famous restaurant in Vancouver, Canada) ... it is a roasted eggplant papaya and black chickpea curry. Simply divine! I recommend it to you all.
Posted by cara on October 1, 2008 6:45 AMThe eggplant can be broiled in the oven, or grilled on a charcoal barbecue. Cool slightly and peel, carefully removing every bit of scorched skin, or cut in half lengthwise and scoops out the flesh with a wooden spoon.
Posted by Martina on October 7, 2008 1:20 PMEggplant is widely used in Indian cuisine and your recipe reminds me so much of 'Baigan Bharta'(roasted eggplants are mashed and spiced - just love the smoky flavor). I'm an eggplant freak and always on the look out for some good recipes. This recipe is something I'd like to try out.
Posted by sailaja on October 16, 2008 11:48 AMI just made this to take to a potluck lunch at work tomorrow. It's so good! I'm going to serve it with taco chips, mmmm. I love that it has cilantro in it, as I'd probably have thrown mint in naturally, but the cilantro is really good and different. I used goat's yogurt, also good.
Like others, I had never varied my baba ganouj recipe before, so thanks so much for this really tasty new version!
Posted by Meg on November 6, 2008 8:34 AM