June 16, 2009
Matcha and Azuki (Green Tea and Red Bean) Cake Roll
[Gâteau roulé matcha et azuki]
The thing that happens when you buy a big pouch of anko (Japanese sweetened red bean paste) to make strawberry daifuku is that you're likely to run out of rice flour long before you use up all the azuki paste.
I assume it keeps for weeks if well wrapped, but I didn't want to let it sit in the fridge for too long (shelf space is in short supply), so I tried to think up ways to use it. A quick brainstorm led me to the gâteaux roulés (cake rolls, a.k.a. jelly rolls or Swiss rolls) that my mother makes and sometimes garnishes with crème de marron, sweetened chestnut paste, which I've always felt is a close cousin to anko, texture- and flavor-wise. And since the pairing of green tea and red bean is always successful, perhaps I could flavor the cake with a little matcha*?
I opted to make the cake component (la génoise) butterless, using almond butter instead, and I cut the red bean paste with about a third of its weight in yogurt, to make the filling easier to spread and less intensely sweet.
Alhough I have stood by my mother (and held my breath) as she deftly rolled up layers of sponge cake, this was my first time actually making a cake roll of my own, and I was rather pleased with how it turned out: I did bake my génoise a tad too long, which resulted in crisp edges that I should probably have trimmed, but the heart of the cake was moist and tender, and the balance of flavors was just right. Not to mention, I was tickled to notice that each cut slice drew the hiragana character の (no), a feature few cakes can boast.
Because this was just a trial run for private consumption, I didn't decorate the cake, but I think a light-handed dusting of confectioner's sugar and/or matcha would accent the color of the cake nicely -- I picture oblique lines sifted through a simple homemade stencil. Next time I may also try brushing the cake layer with a light green tea syrup (possibly made with genmaicha for the toasted note ?) before spreading the filling.
What about you, how do you like your cake rolls?
* A quick online search revealed -- as I suspected, really -- that others had had the same idea, not the least of whom is Sadaharu Aoki, a Japanese pastry chef I was lucky enough to meet two years ago.
Matcha and Azuki Cake Roll
For the cake (génoise):
- 4 eggs, separated
- 40 grams (2 rounded tablespoons) almond butter (substitute 30 grams / 2 tablespoons butter, melted and cooled)
- 80 grams (6 tablespoons) sugar
- 75 grams (2 2/3 ounces or 2/3 cup) flour
- 25 grams (3 tablespoons) corn starch
- 6 grams (1 tablespoon) matcha (finely powdered green tea)
- a good pinch of salt
For the filling:
- 280 grams (10 ounces) anko (sweetened azuki bean paste; preferably tsubuan, which is a little chunky); if unavailable, substitute sweetened chestnut purée (crème de marron)
- 80 grams (1/3 cup) plain Greek-style yogurt or fromage blanc or crème fraîche
For the topping: (optional)
- confectioner's sugar
- matcha (green tea powder)
Prepare the cake. Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F) and line a 35-by-25-cm (14-by-10-inch) jelly roll pan with parchment paper; I used my rimmed silicone mat, which of course doesn't need lining. (Alternatively, line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper, and draw a 35-by-25-cm [14-by-10-inch] rectangle on it lightly in pencil; you'll then spread the cake batter onto the paper into a rectangular shape, using the drawn-on shape as a guide.)
In a medium mixing bowl, combine the egg yolks with the almond butter and sugar. Beat well with a wooden spoon. In another bowl, sift together the flour, corn starch, and matcha. Stir the flour mixture into the egg yolk mixture until just blended, without overmixing.
Place the egg whites and the pinch of salt in a clean, grease-free mixing bowl, and whisk until stiff. Stir one third of the egg whites into the batter, then fold in the rest with a spatula, lifting the mixture to keep as much air as possible in the egg whites.
Pour the batter onto the prepared pan or sheet, making sure it reaches the corners, and smooth out the surface gently with the spatula. Bake for 6 to 8 minutes, keeping a close eye on it, until just set; it should not color.
While the cake is baking, prepare the filling: combine the anko and yogurt in a bowl, and stir well. Set aside.
Once the cake is baked, you have to work quickly while the cake is still warm, otherwise it will be too stiff to roll. Slide the parchment paper and cake on a cold baking sheet or a tray. Using a sharp knife, trim the edges of the cake if necessary to get a neat rectangle, or if the edges have gotten a bit crisp in the oven.
Cover with a clean dishtowel (or a fresh sheet of parchment paper, which you can reuse several times) and flip cautiously onto your work surface, so that one of the short edges is close to you. Remove the cold baking sheet or tray and carefully peel off the sheet of parchment paper on which the cake baked (or, in my case, the silicone mat). The cake will now be upside-down, the spongiest side facing the ceiling.
Spread the filling onto the cake, leaving a margin all around. Roll the cake tightly onto itself, starting from the edge closest to you. It will feel a little awkward at first -- you can use the dishtowel to help your grip -- but will get easier after the first few inches. Wrap the rolled cake tightly in the dishtowel and place it seam side down in the fridge to set for a few hours or overnight.
Just before serving, slice off the ends of the roll -- at an angle if you like -- for a neater look, place the cake on a serving dish, and dust with confectioner's sugar and/or a little matcha powder. Serve on its own, or with a dollop of yogurt. The leftovers will keep for a few days, well wrapped in the fridge.
More Entries Like This One:
~ Blueberry Oat Bran Muffins
~ Strawberry Daifuku Mochi
~ Sticky Chocolate Cake
~ Apple and Maple Yogurt Cake
~ Matcha Shortbread Cookies
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Comments (32)
Permalink | Posted by clotilde in Cakes & Desserts - Recipe Inside! - [favorites]
Clotilde, this is such an interesting dessert, with two ingredients that I'm very curious about. Sounds like it would be delicious.
Posted by Kalyn on June 16, 2009 4:30 PMGreen Tea and Red Beans? That's interesting!
Posted by Stef on June 16, 2009 6:23 PMHello Clotilde,
You've got one beautiful の roll! :)
And this is such a quintessentially Japanese pairing - matcha and adzuki! Matcha & azuki cake rolls are quite popular over here, though ones we have often come with a mixture of anko and heavy cream (lightly whipped, a lot of it) for the filling.
If you also have some fresh strawberries left after ichigo-daifuku, you can roll them up, too - matcha and strawberries go well together, too.
Posted by chika on June 16, 2009 6:38 PMI've done a pumpkin/ginger cake roll for Thanksgiving but your recipe is really unusual and a clever way to use up your anko.
Posted by Barbara on June 16, 2009 7:55 PMYum! I've been wanting to try baking more with green tea and this looks fabulous!
Posted by Sues on June 16, 2009 8:32 PMHow strange but wonderful to see this post! My stepmother-in-law is Japanese and a superb cook. When she came over for lunch the other week, this is exactly what she made for dessert, beautifully wrapped in paper and then in a slim box. It was light and fluffy and absolutely delicious, as yours looks!
Posted by Helen Yuet Ling Pang on June 16, 2009 10:25 PMBeautiful cake!
Posted by Sara on June 16, 2009 10:40 PMGosh, that looks gorgeous. I love baked goods with red bean paste and matcha, but have never had them together. I bet it's wonderful.
Posted by Erin on June 17, 2009 12:09 AMWhat a great melding of different flavors and parts of the world. Looks absolutely scrumptious :)
Posted by City Girl on June 17, 2009 4:47 AMThis sounds lovely and delicious-- but not easy! I love to read your recipes, but some strike me as significantly more labor-intensive than others.
Do you think you could add a note on future entries rating the difficulty of the recipe? And perhaps the time it takes to make? I'd find that very helpful in deciding which ones to attempt. :)
Posted by Aiyana on June 17, 2009 6:05 AMAiyana - Actually, this recipe isn't very difficult at all: you just make the cake layer, stir two ingredients for the filling, and roll the whole thing up. If it seems long, it's perhaps because I've tried to give detailed instructions for bakers who have never made a cake roll before.
Posted by clotilde on June 17, 2009 10:21 AMThe moment I saw the photo I thought of a honey roll ~ in Sydney cakeshops since my childhood and beloved of me. The cake would be lovely and spicey. As for the filling ~ sort of mock creamy (alas!).
I just might go and search for a recipe and give it a go. Clotilde, those photos of yours are inspiration plus to me...:-)
Posted by Joan on June 17, 2009 11:35 AMI like how you used almond butter instead of butter. And I'm impressed with how it turned out, especially since it was your first time making it on your own. Can't wait to make it myself!
Posted by Tabitha (From Single to Married) on June 17, 2009 12:46 PMI was always taught you made a Swiss roll with fat-free sponge cake, using the whisked method, otherwise it didn't roll up well. How interesting to see that yours did!
Posted by Mrs Redboots on June 17, 2009 4:31 PMThis sounds and looks delicious. I have yet to try a rolled cake, and I am soooo impressed by your baking skills. Beautiful!
Posted by Eralda on June 17, 2009 4:37 PMMrs Redboots - Funny you should mention that, my mother just emailed me to say that the real gâteau roulé batter is made without fat (apart from the fat that's in the yolks, that is). :)
Posted by clotilde on June 17, 2009 4:52 PMI visit your blog now and then and think it is great! Love this picture. The colors are my favorite. Great recipe too!
Posted by Cooking With Dia on June 17, 2009 8:33 PMyummy it looks. not only tasty but nutritious. creatively used ingredients. almond butter.. wow..
Posted by health on June 18, 2009 8:16 PMWow this looks and sounds wonderful. I love both those flavours. Wish I could find matcha where I live
Posted by katie on June 18, 2009 9:00 PMGreen tea and red bean is such a great combi...yummy!
Posted by Trishie Koh on June 19, 2009 7:20 AMthanks for the inspiration! i changed the recipe a bit because i didn't have matcha or azuki paste and shopping is not allowed when you're supposed to study, but baking makes such a nice break... ;-)
Posted by Laura on June 19, 2009 1:34 PMwell, instead of almond butter i used mix-of-4-nuts-butter and instead of matcha i used dried lemon-thmye and filled the roll with homemade apricot-jam. tastes great! :-)
Two of my absolute favorite combinations! One of my favorite bakeries has this fresh strawberry roll that I cannot ever stop devouring, but your roll may give that one a run for its money! Yours looks divine.
Posted by Anne on June 20, 2009 5:31 AMI have that red bean paste in my fridge and I did not know what to do with it... I think now I am starting to get some ideas!
Thanks!
:)
Posted by Karine on June 20, 2009 3:56 PMMy favourite local cafe has the most amazing matcha roll with red bean paste made by the chef's wife.
scroll down this article for picture of cake.
Posted by barbara on June 21, 2009 5:56 AMVoilà une part de gâteau que j'aurais volontiers engloutie ! Tu peux également essayer les pancakes fourrés à l'anko, un petit délice...
Posted by Clea on June 21, 2009 11:14 AMGosh! This looks to die for! I absolutely have to try this soon. Thanks for sharing :)
Posted by maria~ on June 22, 2009 4:22 PMmacha and anko always goes very well. Also, with icecream is good for summer dessert. the picture is macha jerry and anko with mocca/caramel ice cream. you definitely love it.
Posted by Maka on June 28, 2009 3:34 AMHi there, am very intrigued by this beautiful roll. Is this recipe suitable to make into a regular cake (8 or 9' round pan)? Looking forward to your advice! =) Thank you so much!
Posted by dee on September 18, 2009 6:29 AMDee - I'm pretty sure you could bake the cake in a round cake pan, then slice it in two horizontally when cold, and spread it with the filling in the middle as a sort of sandwiched cake. Let us know if you try something like that!
Posted by clotilde on September 18, 2009 1:09 PMThank you for your wonderful and prompt reply! I can't wait to try baking this recipe into a regular cake pan. Should I expect the cake to rise/change color? Will 20mins be enough time for it to cook? :) Thank you!!
Posted by Dee on October 11, 2009 2:05 PMDee - The cake won't rise much, and you shouldn't let it color. As for the baking time, I can't suggest one as I've never baked the cake this way, but I would start testing doneness after 14 minutes or so.
Posted by clotilde on October 12, 2009 9:02 AMSounds delicious! Reminiscent of two of my favorite Asian ice creams: green tea and red bean. Also, beautiful for a Christmas dessert.
Posted by Tammy on November 3, 2009 8:24 PM