September 20, 2011
Chestnut and Herb Canistrelli
Cooking inspiration is not the least of the pleasures I draw from a vacation, especially when I'm able to bring back a few local ingredients. It's not always a sensible maneuver, though: I'm sure we all have old packages of dusty exotic spices we haven't once cooked with, but can't quite bring ourselves to toss.
I've done this often enough over the years that I am now a lot more prudent about my vacation ingredient purchases. My strategy is tw...
"Chestnut and Herb Canistrelli" continues »
June 7, 2011
Olive Oil and Black Pepper Tartine
"La découverte d'un mets nouveau fait plus pour le bonheur du genre humain que la découverte d'une étoile."
The discovery of a new dish does more for human happiness than the discovery of a star*: this aphorism is the ninth of twenty that Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin lists as a prologue** to his book, The Physiology of Taste.
It is not quite as famous as aphorism number four ("Dis-moi ce que tu manges, je te dirai ce que tu es," usually tran...
"Olive Oil and Black Pepper Tartine" continues »
February 8, 2011
Dukkah
I first learned about dukkah three years ago, when I had the incredible good fortune of traveling to Australia for a writers' festival. I spotted that Egyptian mix of nuts and spices again and again, in fine foods stores and on restaurant menus, and naturally, I was intrigued.
Dukkah -- also spelled duqqa or dukka -- is made with nuts (most commonly hazelnuts, sometimes pistachios or almonds) and seeds (cumin, sesame, coriander, fennel), as we...
October 5, 2010
Savory Sesame Cookies
If you read French food blogs at all, you've no doubt come across Clea Cuisine: Clea has been writing since March of 2005 -- first from Japan, where she was living then, and now from the South-East of France -- and her unique voice has quickly earned her stripes in the French blogosphere.
I've been a reader practically since the beginning -- I remember early posts about baking cakes in her rice cooker, teaching members of her French club how t...
"Savory Sesame Cookies" continues »
September 21, 2010
Raw Multiseed Crackers
Have you ever tried soaking flax seeds? If not, know that something eerie transpires as soon as your back is turned: while the seeds swell and absorb the water, they release a gel-like substance (called mucilage) so that next time you look, your bowl is filled with a kind of jiggly aspic in which the seeds are suspended.
This little trick makes flax seeds (also called linseeds, or graines de lin in French) particularly popular with raw food pr...
"Raw Multiseed Crackers" continues »
August 3, 2010
Olive Oil and Seed Crackers
If you've been on the fence about getting a pasta roller -- either an attachment for your stand mixer or a hand-cranked one for your biceps -- I may be able to offer the justification you were hoping for: a pasta roller proves handy for homemade crackers, too.
You see, to make good crackers, you need to roll the dough out thinly, for optimal snap, and evenly, so that they'll bake in a uniform fashion, without doughy or burnt spots.
And as I l...
"Olive Oil and Seed Crackers" continues »
June 8, 2010
Radishes in Soil, Noma-Style
I first heard about Rene Redzepi's Copenhagen restaurant Noma when I attended the 2008 edition of the Omnivore Food Festival in Deauville, a gastronomic event during which high-profile chefs from France and beyond are invited to cook live on stage.
He has since received many more accolades as the herald of a refreshing and talented new wave of Scandinavian chefs. His forager's approach seems to celebrate nature at its most generous, yes, but a...
"Radishes in Soil, Noma-Style" continues »
August 25, 2009
Cheese Thins
When it comes to appetizers, I generally try to offer relatively light preparations, and often opt for vegetable-based dips* that can be scooped with raw zucchini sticks or dolloped onto cucumber rounds : if I'm serving something before dinner, when my guests are, all things considered, starving, the idea is to sate them temporarily, not until next week.
On the other hand, if I'm hosting an apéro dînatoire, a casual night of drinks and nibbles...
December 5, 2007
Muhammara
[Bell Pepper Spread with Walnuts and Cashews]
Sometimes, when I have a minute, I sit back and think about the world of food, how vast it is, and how many rivers, hills, and valleys remain uncharted to me: I know so little, and have so much yet to learn. I don't find the prospect overwhelming, far from it. I find it encouraging, I find it promising, I find it comforting: as long as I can read books and move around a kitchen, my life will see no...
October 17, 2007
Mini-Scones à la Carotte et au Romarin
[Carrot and Rosemary Miniature Scones]
Ah, the Curse of the Potluck and its familiar dilemmas that grip and nag -- what to bring, what to bring?
Something sweet, something savory? Something indulgent that will please everyone who doesn't know how much butter went into it, or something healthful so your friends will live longer with a healthy heart and glowing skin?
An old favorite that won't let you down but won't electrify anyone either, or...
"Mini-Scones à la Carotte et au Romarin" continues »
April 16, 2007
Canapés Radis Avocat au Sel Fumé
[Avocado and Radish Canapés with Smoked Salt]
I've been on an avocado kick lately, and I blame my favorite produce stall for that: they keep running specials on them and really, who can resist a special on a trio of avocados when the stall keeper will hand-pick them for you so each will be ripe a couple of days after the previous one? (And since we're on the subject of produce stall wonders, I've just discovered after four years of schlepping ...
"Canapés Radis Avocat au Sel Fumé" continues »
February 23, 2007
Chips de Pita au Zaatar
[Zaatar Pita Chips]
Zaatar is a popular spice blend in Middle-Eastern cuisines -- those of Syria and Lebanon in particular --, made of thyme, toasted sesame seeds, sumac, and salt. (Note: The Arabic word also means simply "thyme", and is sometimes transcribed as za'atar, zahtar, or zatar.)
As with all generic spice blends, the flavor profile of this one will vary according to where its components came from, who mixed them, and how long ago, ...
"Chips de Pita au Zaatar" continues »
February 5, 2007
Crème de Feta à la Tomate
[Tomato Feta Dip]
Every once in a while I get the sudden impulse to hop on a stool and spring-clean my pantry. The urge strikes with no warning, often at the most inconvenient moment, and I get pulled into the task like those cartoon characters who slip a finger into a spinning cogwheel.
I will be looking for an item that time has pushed to the hinterlands of the cabinet, and I will encounter all sorts of forgotten jars and neglected cans alo...
"Crème de Feta à la Tomate" continues »
November 10, 2006
Aged Gouda and Dried Pear Scones
[Scones au Gouda Vieux et Poires Séchées]
Before we begin, I would like to address the scone/biscuit question. To Americans, a biscuit is the hand-held version of a quick bread, leavened with baking powder. Usually round and savory, the American biscuit may be served in place of bread to accompany a main course, especially if said main course involves a gravy component. The closest equivalent the British and the French can think of is the scon...
"Aged Gouda and Dried Pear Scones" continues »
September 20, 2006
Faisselle de Chèvre à la Ciboulette
[Goat's Milk Faisselle with Chives]
Originally, a faisselle (feh-sell) is a container pierced with tiny holes, in which fresh cheese is placed so the whey will drain out. But then metonymy came into play (or perhaps came in to play) and the word now also designates an unsalted soft curd cheese sold in such a container, itself nested in a larger, bucket-shaped tub. This clever contraption allows the whey to flow freely around the cheese, keepin...
"Faisselle de Chèvre à la Ciboulette" continues »
June 8, 2006
Pesto Fraise Basilic
[Strawberry Basil Pesto]
What do you do when your deepest desire is a little homemade pesto in your sandwich, but you discover with a sinking heart that you have but a handful of basil? Sure, you could go out and buy more, certainly, yes, that would be the sensible thing to do. But what if you can't go out for some reason, say, because you've just painted your toenails, or because you're expecting a delivery, or perhaps both? Well, you open th...
"Pesto Fraise Basilic" continues »
March 15, 2006
Boudin de Langue
[Tongue Blood Sausage]
Paris is filled to the brim with little stores that sell produits du terroir, artisanal products from different regions of France: condiments and spices, jam and honey, cookies and candy, traditional canned dishes such as cassoulet or duck confit... You push the door and feel like you've stepped right into Hansel and Gretel's bread house, complete with cake roof and sugar windows.
Having read that fairy tale and learne...
"Boudin de Langue" continues »
January 15, 2006
Saucisson de Canard
[Dry-Cured Duck Sausage]
We had long wanted to try Le Petit Canard, a small restaurant tucked away in a side street of the 9th arrondissement, just a few blocks from us. I had often walked past it on my way up and down the hill, and it looked cosy and warm, with just a handful of candle-lit tables. As the name implies, the menu focuses on all things duck, and I have a weakness for monomaniac restaurants.
We finally made it there last week wit...
"Saucisson de Canard" continues »
August 24, 2005
Fresh Herb Muffins
I have a new piece up on NPR's website: this one includes some tips about picnics and a recipe for fresh herb muffins!
For my metric-minded readers, here are the measurements to make the muffins:
- A small bunch of fresh flat parsley, about 25 sprigs
- A small bunch of fresh cilantro, about 25 sprigs
- A small bunch of fresh chives, about 20 sprigs
- 3 eggs
- 125 ml buttermilk (substitute plain yogurt or kéfir)
- 80 ml pesto
- 25 g grated parm...
"Fresh Herb Muffins" continues »
July 18, 2005
Dip Fromage Frais et Coriandre
[Fresh Cheese and Cilantro Dip]
Last Saturday we organized a little impromptu dinner party at our place with our dear neighbor-friends Stéphan and Patricia, and our new neighbor-friends Ligiana and Peter. Ah yes! Didn't I tell you? We have new neighbors! They moved in a few weeks ago and now occupy the apartment just to the left of ours. A little welcome note slipped under their door, an invitation to join us for drinks and nibbles, and voilà!...
"Dip Fromage Frais et Coriandre" continues »
May 17, 2005
Anchoïade
Anchoïade, a garlic and anchovy dip, is a specialty from Provence and the city of Collioure in particular, famous for its anchois. It is typically served with an assortment of raw vegetables, or spread on little toasts. When I was in Lourmarin for Easter, my aunt served a delicious anchoïade for lunch the first day, and it had the consistency of a thin mayonnaise. I have also seen anchoïades that were thicker and chunkier, a bit like tapenade, ...
May 16, 2005
Pancetta and Capers Crostini
On Saturday night, we had the pleasure of meeting Derrick and his wife Melissa. They were in Paris for a few days on their way back from a wine-intensive trip to Germany, and I had invited them over for dinner. Derrick's An Obsession with Food was the very first food blog I ever laid my eyes on back in 2002 -- and wow, does anyone know where these last three years went? -- and he was part of my inspiration to start C&Z. After years of emailing ...
"Pancetta and Capers Crostini" continues »
February 2, 2005
Mini Summer Rolls with Thai Dipping Sauce (A Menu For Hope)
When Pim suggested we food bloggers try and raise some funds for the tsunami relief effort, her idea was that we would jointly create a twelve course menu of Southeast Asian inspiration, complete with recipes, drink pairings and translations. It is not my habit to let the big bad thnigs of the world take up too much space on C&Z (I think of it as a sheltered little place and I don't think anyone comes here to know about my political opinions), ...
"Mini Summer Rolls with Thai Dipping Sauce (A Menu For Hope)" continues »
December 9, 2004
Gelée de Pomerol
[Pomerol Wine Jelly]
I am a religious reader of a handful of carefully selected cooking and women's magazines. Some I subscribe to, some I buy at the marchand de journaux (self-respecting magazines are not sold at the grocery store in France). New issues are welcomed with a tiny whoop of joy, carrying the promise of relaxing entertainment and a new set of colorful nuggets -- the latest fashion, gossip, book, trend, store or recipe.
In women's...
"Gelée de Pomerol" continues »
August 3, 2004
Mini-Tartelettes : Oignon Rouge et Rhubarbe / Brousse et Membrillo
[Red Onion and Rhubarb Mini-Tartlets / Fresh Cheese and Quince Mini-Tartlets]
When I throw a party, even if I'm going to serve food buffet-style, I always try to have a few small nibbles to offer first, at the bar that separates our kitchen from the living-room, which is where everyone tends to linger at first. This allows all of the guests to arrive, get a drink and settle in, before the buffet is declared open and people can start picking up...
"Mini-Tartelettes : Oignon Rouge et Rhubarbe / Brousse et Membrillo" continues »
June 7, 2004
Duo de Pesto : Pesto de Roquette et Pesto Rouge
[A Duet of Pesto : Rucola Pesto and Red Pesto]
On Saturday night, my dear friends Marie-Laure and Laurence and their respective (and dear, too) boyfriends Ludo and Jean-Christophe came over for dinner. This had been decided just the day before, so Saturday morning saw me sitting on the couch, surrounded by cookbooks, perusing them for inspiration. In passing, I have plans to create an exercice video which I will simply call "The Cookbook Worko...
"Duo de Pesto : Pesto de Roquette et Pesto Rouge" continues »
June 2, 2004
White Bean and Nut Butter Dip
Our neighbor-friends Stéphan and Patricia have been busy repainting their living-room these past few weeks. On Sunday they were finally done, so they rearranged the furniture, knocked on our kitchen window with the Ceremonial Wooden Spoon, and invited us over for a little newly-repainted-house-warming drink.
You just don't go to a house-warming party -- however improvized -- empty-handed, so we decided to prepare a few nibbles to accompany the...
"White Bean and Nut Butter Dip" continues »
February 15, 2004
Shallot Parsley Dip
Our first Campanier order included a small head of cauliflower. I felt like eating it raw, and came up with this easy-breazy dip to accompany it. I wanted to eat a quick snack before joining Maxence at the movies, and this took me all of five minutes to whip up. This fresh and tasty dip can be eaten with veggies, or spread on toasted bread.
Be warned though, that as you sit down to watch the movie, your boyfriend may look at you suspiciously ...
"Shallot Parsley Dip" continues »
February 4, 2004
Truffes de Chèvre Frais
[Fresh Goat Cheese Truffles]
On Saturday night, we threw a little dinner party at home. A "little" dinner party for eight dear friends : Joseph (originally from Nashville but living in France, whom I met two years ago at an IT recruiting show -- we were struck by a sense of recognition, being equally bored to tears) and his wife Séverine, our almost neighbors Olivier and Anne, whom we had met at Joseph and Séverine's wedding last May, as well ...
"Truffes de Chèvre Frais" continues »
January 2, 2004
Coquillages Farcis Ricotta et Tapenade
[Pasta Shells Stuffed with Ricotta and Tapenade]
Last Tuesday, my sister Céline and I met for lunch. The plan was to eat at Rose Bakery, but it was closed for the holidays, so we went down the rue des Martyrs to Fuxia instead, a really nice Italian restaurant, hip yet friendly, where we had truly excellent salads. After that, we spent the afternoon strolling around the neighborhood, enjoying the unexpectedly sunny weather, and running various ...
"Coquillages Farcis Ricotta et Tapenade" continues »
December 17, 2003
Bruschetta
I remember very well the first bruschetta I ever had, served at the San Francisco vegetarian restaurant "Herbivore". We had arrived in the US about two months before, it was the night of my 21st birthday, we were with our friend Jérémie, and after dinner we went to see Arling & Cameron play. The barman wouldn't give me a free drink even considering the occasion, but we had the artists sign their album's poster for me, which sure made up for it....
October 7, 2003
Sun-dried Tomato Polenta Squares
This recipe is from the apéro section of the cookbook Mes petits plats 100% naturels, by Catherine Mandigon and Patricia Riveccio. In France, apéritif (also called l'apéro) is the general term for the drinks and savory nibbles you offer your guests before dinner. It is also a widespread custom to invite people over just for l'apéro, which is a more casual way to entertain than a full-blown dinner invitation. French cookbooks often include a who...
"Sun-dried Tomato Polenta Squares" continues »