October 11, 2011
Cooking For One (Zucchini and Chickpeas)
This is what dinner looks like when I eat on my own.
I am endlessly curious to know what cooks cook when they cook for one: some can't see the point if there is no audience, others fall back on no-cook comfort foods, some take it as their opportunity to indulge in the foods they love but their family despises, and others yet take pleasure in treating themselves to the precise meal their appetite calls for.
I'm in the latter camp. Breakfast ce...
"Cooking For One (Zucchini and Chickpeas)" continues »
February 15, 2011
Carrot Barley Galettes
For the past three years now, I've been writing a column in ELLE à table, a French bimonthly cooking magazine. This column spans two pages, and I generally devote one to an ingredient (cardamom! buckwheat! white chocolate!) and what you can do with it, the other to a food experience or trend (superfoods! Japanese pastries! mushroom picking!) and why you should care about it.
In the next installment (spoiler alert), due to appear in the March/A...
"Carrot Barley Galettes" continues »
October 26, 2010
Cep and Walnut Pizza
It's been a bit of a mushroom fest around here lately: Maxence and I went foraging in the forest of Rambouillet earlier this month, and we came back with six and a half kilos of mushrooms between us (that's fourteen pounds).
Naturally, we didn't venture out willy nilly into the forest (I've read enough children's tales and seen enough video projects not to do that). We went with a pro, a friend who's a seasoned mushroom picker, who knows her C...
"Cep and Walnut Pizza" continues »
July 27, 2010
Tomato and Einkorn Wheat (or Spelt) Salad
My weekday lunches revolve around salads like this one, built on grains, fresh vegetables, some sort of protein element, and fresh herbs. I prepare a few servings at a time, and that conveniently takes care of lunch for the next couple of days.
I do try to mix things up so as not eat the same thing all the time, but I admit I've become a little fixated on this particular one lately: it is full of flavor, refreshing and filling, with a satisfyi...
"Tomato and Einkorn Wheat (or Spelt) Salad" continues »
July 14, 2010
Yellow Zucchini Tarte Fine on a Yogurt-Based Crust
The football* world cup has just ended (congratulations, Spain!), and although I haven't breathed a word about it until now -- there is such a media overload during the event, you don't need me adding to it -- we followed the competition with an enthusiasm that wasn't dampened by the magnitude of the French fiasco.
Some games we watched from bars, others from home, and it was our great pleasure then to invite friends over to join in on the fun...
"Yellow Zucchini Tarte Fine on a Yogurt-Based Crust" continues »
April 27, 2010
Swiss Chard Gratin with Vegan Bechamel
[Gratin de blettes]
A favorite from the archives, this post was originally published in April 2009.
I generally steer clear of ready-made preparations and other "helpers" sold at the grocery store: not out of snobism, but I love to cook, I devote time and thought to selecting good ingredients, and I welcome the opportunity to practice and experiment, so I am reluctant to give up the driver's seat and let some industrial product take over.
Bu...
"Swiss Chard Gratin with Vegan Bechamel" continues »
January 12, 2010
Perfect Roasted Potatoes
I believe in striving to master simple dishes. I don't aspire to be a person of whom one says, "what an ambitious cook!" or "she should really open her own restaurant!" First and foremost, I want to be someone who can be trusted to prepare a good, well-rounded, home-cooked meal. A meal that has personality, yes, but one that doesn't try too hard, and relies chiefly on good taste and good technique.
This is why I've always been frustrated by my...
"Perfect Roasted Potatoes" continues »
December 8, 2009
Carrot and Ginger Quickie Pickle
Pickling means preserving food in a seasoned brine or vinegar mixture, and in case you didn't get the memo, pickles are the new cupcakes.
I sorta kinda doubt it -- try bringing pickles to your nephew's birthday party -- but, as someone who grew up with store-bought jars of cornichons (gherkins) as the single pickled element of the family diet, I am most intrigued by the techniques involved, and the wide range of products they create.
I am a c...
"Carrot and Ginger Quickie Pickle" continues »
November 24, 2009
Spaghetti Squash Gratin with Walnuts and Bacon
[Gratin de courge spaghetti, noix et lardons]
It saddens me when people attemp to pass off food items as something they're not: they're selling those foods short, and setting eaters up for disappointment. No, meatless burgers are not at all like beef burgers, carob chips have nothing to do with chocolate chips, and I don't know in what parallel low-carb universe spaghetti squash is seen as an acceptable substitute for actual, durum wheat spagh...
"Spaghetti Squash Gratin with Walnuts and Bacon" continues »
August 11, 2009
Roasted Patty Pan Squash and Herbed Chickpeas
[Pâtissons rôtis et pois chiches aux herbes]
The patty pan squash (in French: le pâtisson) is a member of the blended summer squash family. Shaped very much like a UFO with undulating edges -- each bump a tiny cockpit with an alien inside, presumably --, it can be conical or squat, and comes in shades of yellow, green, or white. The flesh inside is the color of clotted cream, its heart studded with edible seeds like the center of a zucchini.
...
"Roasted Patty Pan Squash and Herbed Chickpeas" continues »
June 23, 2009
Gratin Dauphinois (Potato Gratin)
As promised when we talked about potato gnocchi earlier this month, here is my recipe for gratin dauphinois, the king of potato side dishes, named after the former French province whence it originates.
Before we begin, it is my duty to draw your attention to the fact that a proper gratin dauphinois does not involve cheese. No. It is a gloriously simple dish of sliced potatoes baked in milk and/or cream -- we'll get to that in a second -- that ...
"Gratin Dauphinois (Potato Gratin)" continues »
March 3, 2009
Spicy Cabbage and Chicken Stir-Fry
I've recently read a collection of stories by Lara Vapnyar called Broccoli and Other Tales of Food and Love. The six stories in this pretty volume talk about Russian immigrants to the United States, and use the revealing lens of food to show how they adapt to their new lives. Stories about migrants never fail to move me, and perhaps also because I was very fond of my Russian coworkers when I lived in California, I thought these particularly poi...
"Spicy Cabbage and Chicken Stir-Fry" continues »
February 17, 2009
Brussels Sprouts with Onions and Squash Seeds
I have a special fondness for the winter market.
Oh, sure, I have to bundle up, wear a woolen cap and good gloves, and by the time I lock my bike to the street sign I've claimed as mine, few of my fingers are available for immediate use. But when I get to my favorite produce stall and the vendors greet me, their jolly smiles clearly say, "thanks for braving the cold!" and I always feel humble imagining what it must be like for them, who have ...
"Brussels Sprouts with Onions and Squash Seeds" continues »
January 27, 2009
Japanese-Inspired Quinoa
As I mentioned in the January newsletter and on this forum thread, one of my current aspirations is to learn more about Japanese cooking.
I have worked on assembling a good pantry of essentials -- always the most daunting step when one tackles a new style of cuisine, I think -- and now the real fun has begun, as I teach myself the basics by following trusted recipes.
Maki, whose blog Just Hungry has been around for about as long as mine, has ...
"Japanese-Inspired Quinoa" continues »
December 3, 2008
Saffron Roasted Cauliflower
Roasting summer vegetables comes quite naturally to most cooks, I believe, but not everyone thinks to submit their winter counterparts to the same treatment. And it's a pity, really, when you know what good it does root vegetables and winter squash, yes, but also broccoli and cauliflower.
And this is my favorite, ultra-facile way to cook cauliflower, tossed with ras el hanout -- a magic wand of a Moroccan spice mix you should really add to you...
"Saffron Roasted Cauliflower" continues »
May 27, 2008
On Fresh Peas, and How to Shell Them
I did not grow up eating peas. My mother didn't like them so they never appeared on the family table, and the revolting stuff we were served at school didn't do much to dispell the notion that peas were, well, beurk (that's French for yuck).
Fast-forward a decade or two and what do you know, I find out that petits pois, freshly shelled and cooked with grace, are in fact a delicacy, to be savored in proportion to the manual labor they require.
...
"On Fresh Peas, and How to Shell Them" continues »
March 27, 2008
On Greens, and How to Keep Them Fresh
I've come across many versions of this tip over the years. Keeping one's greens fresh and happy seems to be the culinary equivalent of keeping one's skin young: it's a losing battle, but everyone hopes to find the magic technique.
Wash, don't wash (we're talking about greens again now; we'll address personal hygiene another time), wrap in plastic, cloth, or a paper bag, keep on the counter or refrigerate, and even this one: put the herbs uprig...
"On Greens, and How to Keep Them Fresh" continues »
October 10, 2007
Deluxe Potatoes
[Jo Jo Potatoes]
Perhaps you remember Braden and Laura from the post I wrote about their underground restaurant venture: Hidden Kitchen has been doing well since then, waiting list and all, and Maxence and I have had the finger-licking pleasure of going back to their apartment a few times, as friends, on their off nights.
Last time we did was burger night or, more accurately, slider night*, Laura having reached the point where, after a severe...
June 12, 2007
Salicorne
Not quite a vegetable but not quite a seaweed, salicornia must have gone through a tough identity crisis as a teenager. And that's not even taking into account the multiple names it has to answer to -- sea bean, sea asparagus, glasswort, or marsh samphire in English, perce-pierre, salicot, cornichon de mer, or criste-marine in French.
Whatever the moniker, salicornia is a wild, succulent plant that grows along the seashore and in salt marshes....
February 20, 2007
Betterave Crapaudine
[Crapaudine Beet]
It is a common misconception that the wintertime opposes the hurried cook with a dearth of ready-to-eat vegetables that could be prepped and dressed in under five minutes.
But what of endives and young winter greens, what of radishes and kohlrabi? What of lemon-squeezed mushrooms, what of thinly sliced fennel and cabbage, what of carrots and celeriac, which do require peeling and grating, yes, but perhaps you have a basic fo...
"Betterave Crapaudine" continues »
January 23, 2007
Cauliflower Gratin
[Gratin de Chou-Fleur]
Ever since my casual mention of my mother's cauliflower gratin a few weeks ago, requests for the recipe have been steadily pouring into my inbox. A silent protest was even organized at the foot of my apartment building the other day, with eager, apron-clad cooks walking in circles and brandishing signs that read, "Cauliflower To The People" and "Let Us Eat Gratin."
Fortunately, there is a back door to my building.
With...
"Cauliflower Gratin" continues »
August 25, 2006
Courgette Bicolore de Rocher
[Bi-Coloured-Python-Rock-Zucchini]
It's probably safe to assume that I pay more attention to zucchini than the average joe, but if you had been walking by Joël Thiébault's market stall* with me that day, you wouldn't have missed these either: there, between the hostess-gift-worthy bouquets of fresh herbs and the off-white bulbs of hélianthi (a cousin of the Jerusalem artichoke with fewer knobs), was a basket of curvy-necked, bi-colored zucchin...
"Courgette Bicolore de Rocher" continues »
August 2, 2006
Chicken Family Green Beans
As much as one likes to cook, one has to admit that on some nights, a bit of convenience and instant gratification doesn't hurt. And when our mood clamors for an effortless yet satisfying dinner at home, it is a true comfort to know that we can turn to the Chicken Family, and that the Chicken Family will be there for us.
Chicken Family is the name of a small rotisserie on rue des Abbesses. More a stand than an actual shop, it is a narrow, corr...
"Chicken Family Green Beans" continues »
June 14, 2006
Courgette au Coquelicot en Carpaccio
[Zucchini Poppy Carpaccio]
As promised, here is the recipe for the first course in the flower menu I created for the French edition of ELLE (issue #3154, June 12, 2006). My thanks to Catherine Roig for allowing me to reproduce the recipes here. The picture above is a shot of the magazine page: the food styling is by Valérie Lhomme, the photography by Edouard Sicot.
Where does one find poppy vinegar? In Paris, it can be purchased at Izrael (30...
"Courgette au Coquelicot en Carpaccio" continues »
October 24, 2005
Zucchini Polenta Tart
[This is a republication of a post originally published in September of 2004. Click through for the recipe.]...
"Zucchini Polenta Tart" continues »
October 5, 2005
Gems from the Market
Last Saturday I went to the Marché des Batignolles, an all-organic market that's just a short bus ride from where I live. I don't go nearly as often as I'd wish: many different activities compete for my attention on Saturday mornings, and the whole sleep-in-and-laze-around-in-your-pj's seems to win the game more often than not, especially when Friday nights are poker nights.
However, this time I had a companion, Meg, who lives not too far fro...
"Gems from the Market" continues »
September 22, 2005
Galettes de Riz
[Rice Cakes]
"Waste not, want not", saith popular wisdom. I do hate having to throw out good ingredients or tasty leftovers. I generally strive to make the most of my supplies, and in fact it's an excellent exercise for your creative muscles to try and find ways to do so. But I have to admit it's a constant battle between this thrifty side of me and the other one, who rolls her eyes and moans, "We've eaten that twice already, can we please mo...
August 25, 2005
Tomates Coeur de Boeuf
On this rainy August day (this is not the weather I signed up for! I want a refund!) I just had to share with you the perfectness of these here tomatoes, bought at our produce store on rue des Abbesses. They are everything you could possibly hope for in a tomato -- stark red, heavy in your hand, thin-skinned and fleshy, fragrant, sweet and juicy.
This particular variety, with its plump ribs just begging to be sliced, is called Coeur de Boeuf -...
"Tomates Coeur de Boeuf" continues »
May 5, 2005
Retour de marché
[Back from the market]
Saturday mornings are always something of a dilemma for me, or actually a trilemma, which I thought wasn't an actual word until I looked it up. I can either sleep in, go to the pool for a swim, or go to the Batignolles market -- each of the three activities fulfilling an equally important need. It is the third option that won the competition last Saturday morning, and I set out in the glorious morning sun, with my faithf...
"Retour de marché" continues »
April 27, 2005
Parmentier de Hareng Fumé aux Brocolis
[Smoked Herring and Broccoli Parmentier]
In France, we get pretty much the same télé-réalité shows as everywhere else in the Western world -- yet another perk of globalization -- but I don't often watch them, as I find most either really boring or really painful to watch.
However, I have somehow let myself get sucked into the current show called La Nouvelle Star -- the French rendition of American Idol -- in which successive selections lead ...
"Parmentier de Hareng Fumé aux Brocolis" continues »
April 21, 2005
Ratatouille Confite au Four
[Oven-Roasted Ratatouille]
The quality and selection of produce is often a good criterion by which to judge a grocery store and its general attractiveness/cleanliness, because it's the first thing to look terrible if it's not carefully taken care of. A bit like peeking at the state of somebody's fingernails -- not that I actually do this and draw any conclusion, oh no, really no, I wouldn't.
And since the produce aisle is often placed right a...
"Ratatouille Confite au Four" continues »
April 18, 2005
Tarte Asperge et Fraise
[Asparagus and Strawberry Tart]
About a year ago, a little group of us Parisian (by birth or by heart) food enthusiasts started a tradition of organizing potluck dinners at one another's place. On Saturday night, my dear friend Alisa hosted her second such event, setting Aphrodisiac Foods as the theme for the night. The event had been scheduled for a while and I had done some basic research about those ingredients that were notable aphrodisiac...
"Tarte Asperge et Fraise" continues »
April 6, 2005
Confit d'Asperge aux Amandes et au Romarin
Head over to NPR's website today for my Spring piece, a recipe for Asparagus Confit with Almonds and Rosemary! This is the first occurence of their Kitchen Window column that will be published online every other Wednesday, featuring different guest writers....
"Confit d'Asperge aux Amandes et au Romarin" continues »
March 8, 2005
Petite Salade Rouge
[Little Red Salad]
"C'est assez amer, vous savez?", said the pretty salesgirl at the market.
Beautiful purplish-red leaves with a white spine. Oh, I knew they were going to be bitter and I wouldn't like them so much and I would just end up pushing them to the side of my plate in favor of the baby spinach leaves I'd have tried to blend them with. But I had to buy it all the same, this little rosebud of a salad.
What can I say, I have a weakn...
"Petite Salade Rouge" continues »
March 4, 2005
Gâteau de Panais au Chorizo
[Parsnip and Chorizo Cake]
Yes, another gâteau! But it's a savory one this time, that combines grated parsnips, little chunks of chorizo and chopped parsley, baked into a warm golden cake, frittata-like and satifying. The parsnips meld into the egg batter to produce a smooth, almost moussy texture, and the chorizo adds a really nice kick to their earthy sweetness. Chorizo is one of my favorite things at the moment, and I'm still looking for so...
"Gâteau de Panais au Chorizo" continues »
January 28, 2005
Mmh, Corn on the Cob
Oh I know, I know, this is completely and utterly out of season. But really, just this once, I don't want to know where this particular ear of corn was grown, or what circumvented route it had to follow to land on that grocery store shelf.
What I do know is that right in the middle of a particularly glacial winter week, a little edible sunshine is always welcome. Especially rubbed with salted butter, and eaten with the aid of our indispensabl...
"Mmh, Corn on the Cob" continues »
January 18, 2005
Hello, Gorgeous!
On Saturday morning, from the attractive stall of my favorite produce merchant at the Marché des Batignolles, a potimarron is beaming up at me.
Plump orange cheeks, smooth skin with faint white lines -- who could resist? I pick it up to get a better feel of its perfect shape and weight, cup it in my gloved hands, and adopt it instantly.
The stall-keeper, a pretty young woman with a crinkled felt hat, is always happy to share advice. "Potimar...
"Hello, Gorgeous!" continues »
November 30, 2004
Tarte à l'Artichaut et au Thon Fumé
[Artichoke and Smoked Tuna Tart]
...and here is the tart I made with Pascale's pâte brisée!
Slices of artichoke hearts and strips of smoked tuna, on a bed of roquette leaves and a smooth layer of mascarpone cheese. The artichoke's tender sweetness, hand in hand with the salty strength of the tuna -- I cannot recommend the pairing enough.
I found the smoked tuna in the smoked salmon aisle at my grocery store ("oh wow, smoked tuna!", she exc...
"Tarte à l'Artichaut et au Thon Fumé" continues »
November 24, 2004
Zucchini Tart on a Hazelnut-Thyme Crust
At the Bar à Veloutés I hosted a few weeks back, one of the little accessories you could choose to dip in your velouté was an Allumette Noisette-Thym, a hazelnut and thyme cracker shaped like a matchstick. These allumettes were a personal favorite of mine, because they happened to be a recipe I had created from scratch, simply based on the idea that we'd had and the feel/look/taste of the dough as I was working with it. I enjoyed their crunchy ...
"Zucchini Tart on a Hazelnut-Thyme Crust" continues »
November 12, 2004
Galettes à la Brise de Châtaigne
[Chestnut Meal Galettes]
When I went to the Salon Saveur last spring, I returned with quite a number of purchases. Some of them were fresh and perishable, and the days that followed were a happy procession of delicacies, as we methodically and dutifully consumed what needed to be.
Such food shows are always Temptation Hall for me and I would gladly get a bit of everything, but there's usually a moment when the little angel of Reason sitting ...
"Galettes à la Brise de Châtaigne" continues »
November 9, 2004
Topinambours
It's not everyday that one gets to discover a whole new, previously unpublished vegetable. It's not everyday that this new vegetable seems to belong to a little tribe of bulb-headed, purple-hooded munchkins. And it's not everyday that said munchkins turn out to have a delightful taste, halfway between an artichoke and a sweet potato.
As I'm well aware, topinambours (or Jerusalem artichokes) are news only to me : they've been around for centuri...
October 4, 2004
Purple Potato
It must be the child in me speaking, but I love it when food dresses up in unusual colors : blue bread! pink garlic! black tomatoes! green rice! red pesto! ... and wow, purple potatoes!
I had heard of vitelottes potatoes before, and I had seen them used to make stunning potato chips in particular, but I had never seen them sold anywhere. Until recently that is, when I found them at the Gérardmer market -- oh what incredible resources this humb...
September 24, 2004
Petites Tomates au Pecorino
[Plum Tomatoes with Pecorino]
The last tasty plum tomatoes of the season, a piece of pecorino cheese your parents brought back from their Florence getaway (oh how well they know you), five minutes of preparation, and here's a pretty and tasty little appetizer to bring to your neighbor-friends' place when invited for the apéro (pre-dinner drink).
Watch as people wonder how to approach the tomato quarters, venture two tentative fingers, pick on...
"Petites Tomates au Pecorino" continues »
September 4, 2004
Zucchini Polenta Tart
I have a particular soft spot for polenta and anything cornmeal.
Unfortunately, they are not at all common in France : I have occasionally seen polenta served at restaurants (and I will reliably dart onto any dish that mentions it as a component, especially if it claims to be croustillante), but it is rather hard to find in French food stores. You need to go to organic stores -- where you will find instant organic polenta, passable but not st...
"Zucchini Polenta Tart" continues »
June 17, 2004
Roasted Green Peppers
I had been wanting to roast my own peppers for years, but never had. I'd always loved roasted peppers, be they red, green, yellow or none of the above. I had read about the different possible methods, about the tips and tricks, about the things that could go wrong and how to avoid them, about how freshly roasted peppers were astonishingly better than jarred -- I knew all that.
But for some obscure reason, I held the belief, deeply ingrained i...
"Roasted Green Peppers" continues »
June 14, 2004
Gâteau Renversé Brocoli et Polenta
[Broccoli and Cornmeal Upside Down Cake]
I love surprises, and I'm sure you'll agree that cooking surprises are among the best.
You start out to make something, unsure where you're going, assembling things, changing course as you go ; you don't really know what you're doing, half-thinking "oh dear that doesn't look right", but still, you're going with the flow, following your instincts and reasoning that, with what's in it, it can't be that b...
"Gâteau Renversé Brocoli et Polenta" continues »
June 4, 2004
Terrine de Légumes au Fromage de Chèvre et aux Herbes
[Goat Cheese and Herb Vegetable Terrine]
When trying to decide what to bring to the Paris Potluck the other day, my thoughts immediately turned to a terrine. I love terrines : I like the name, I like the dish you make them in (and specifically my own), I like the nice, country feel they have to them. They are also a wonderful thing to bring to a buffet, because they can usually be sliced into many servings (well unless they are micro-terrines ...
"Terrine de Légumes au Fromage de Chèvre et aux Herbes" continues »
June 3, 2004
Paillassons de Pomme de Terre
[Potato Hashbrowns]
If you're perfectly honest with yourself, you'll probably realize that a lot of the things you do are in fact an alibi for something else.
Example? Example : I loved going out for breakfast in the US. I would order eggs, but really, that was just an alibi to get the hashbrowns. Of course, I could have just ordered hashbrowns, but that wouldn't have been quite the same : hashbrowns on their own won't hit the same spot. Thei...
"Paillassons de Pomme de Terre" continues »
May 26, 2004
Tomates Confites
[Slow-Roasted Tomatoes]
I've been wanting to make my own tomates confites for a while, especially after eating and tremendously enjoying the semi-dried tomatoes I posted about recently.
And then in the tranquility of a Sunday afternoon, I spotted a few roma tomatoes lying lazily on our kitchen counter, getting contentedly riper and riper, quite unaware of what was coming to them. I took them by surprise, and condemned them, I'm afraid, to a ...
"Tomates Confites" continues »
May 13, 2004
The Rolls Royce of Potatoes
What we have here, ladies and gentlemen, is not just any old potato. No no no. Oh, no. These are Bonnotte potatoes, from the island of Noirmoutier, just South of Brittany. Noirmoutier potatoes, which benefit from copious rains imbued with sea salt, are considered to be the best, and the Bonnotte variety is the cream of the crop.
I bought a kilo of these last week at the Salon Saveurs, for 4.80 €. The guy at the stand, unlike most of ...
"The Rolls Royce of Potatoes" continues »
May 3, 2004
Fèves Fraîches
[Fresh Fava Beans]
I'd never had fresh fava beans before, so it was a pleasant surprise to discover some in my Campanier basket this week. I decided to have them for lunch the other day.
Boy, do those little guys like to play hard-to-get!
What you initially have are those large, fat, green pods, that look a lot like giant green beans. I had quite a bunch of these.
When you tear one of the pods open, you can see that the inside is lined wit...
April 24, 2004
Asparagus! Yay!
Let us rejoice, my friends, for asparagus season is upon us!
They are starting to appear on produce stalls, the really thick white ones, and the thinner pinkish white ones, and my favorite, the glorious green with purple hues, and their pretty pointy little heads, curling onto one side or the other.
Simplicity is key. I discard the tough ends, bending each stalk gently until it snaps at the natural limit of tenderness. And always, the creepi...
April 22, 2004
Strudel de Blettes
[Swiss Chard Strudel]
Last Saturday, I recruited a few dear friends to help me eat the Chocolate & Zucchini Cake I had baked : with Maxence away on a business trip, it was just me and that good-lookin' cake, and although I can always be trusted to do my fair share of the eating, that's exactly the problem. Plus, I needed opinions! So Ludo and Marie-Laure, and our next-door neighbors Stéphan and Patricia, were invited over for a little potluck ...
"Strudel de Blettes" continues »
April 15, 2004
Tomates Mi-Séchées
[Semi-Dried Tomatoes]
Remember how I mentioned buying a bottle of balsamic vinegar and some coriander anchovy tapenade at the balsamic vinegar tasting the other day? Well, I lied.
I also got a little bag of semi-dried tomatoes, moist and plump.
They come in a sealed package which seems to protect them well because the best-by date is in June -- of 2005. The suggested uses include adding them to sandwiches, salads, pasta, risotto, stews, ter...
"Tomates Mi-Séchées" continues »
April 14, 2004
Pissaladière
Pissaladière is a specialty from Nice, in the South of France. It's an onion tart with black olives and anchovies, on a thin pizza-like dough. The name comes from "pissalat", a condiment made with pureed anchovies, cloves, thyme and bay leaves, which was spread on the tart before baking.
The name has taken on a somewhat looser meaning in my family, and we use it to mean any Mediterranean-style onion tart, not necessarily involving anchovies. M...
April 12, 2004
Punk Leek
It might have become apparent by now that leek is pretty high on my top-5 list of vegetables.
The playful way in which it hides lumps of dirt between its leaves, reminding you how freshly from the earth it comes ; the distinctive sound of the knife, cutting through the layers when you chop the whites ; the sweet oniony taste, so good it hardly needs any seasoning ; the soft, moist, velvety texture it takes on when you cook it over gentle heat...
March 26, 2004
Leek and Ricotta Frittata
Food never tastes as good as when you are really hungry. And although the temptation is strong to just grab and scarf down the first thing that crosses your path (tasty or nasty, edible or otherwise), it's a much better move to resist the urge, and pay attention : what does your stomach yearn for, what appeals to you the most, what would really fill that void, hit the spot?
If you do that, and if the demands of the grumbling monster inside ca...
"Leek and Ricotta Frittata" continues »
March 10, 2004
Tarte aux Blettes et Graines de Courge
[Swiss Chard and Squash Seeds Tart]
Had you been in my kitchen last week, you would have heard a small squeal of joy. That would have been me, unloading the contents of my weekly Campanier basket of fruits and vegetables, and discovering a lush bunch of swiss chard.
The next day found me picking up a couple of ingredients from the grocery store, then getting on to make this Swiss Chard Tart. I have recently bought a bag of squash seeds and a ...
"Tarte aux Blettes et Graines de Courge" continues »
March 9, 2004
Frites de Carottes aux Epices
[Spiced Carrot Fries]
Winter is the blessed season of root vegetables. Since it is noticeably drawing to a close here - longer days, sunny and mild weather, daffodils all around -, now's the time to make the most of the kind of carb comfort our winter friends have to offer, before we turn the page and say hello to nature's spring collection.
Having a bunch of carrots to use up, I decided to go for my favored cooking method for root vegetables...
"Frites de Carottes aux Epices" continues »
March 5, 2004
Nuggets de Poulet et Frites de Légumes Racine
A Take on Chicken Nuggets and Fries.
My sister Céline came to have dinner with us the other night. She has recently started working for a major French car company, and part of the integration process for new hires is to go through four weeks at one of the factories, working the line just like the other workers. This is a trying experience to say the least (a loss of 6 pounds, a large bruise on the hip, a swollen and bandaged wrist - how's that...
"Nuggets de Poulet et Frites de Légumes Racine" continues »
February 29, 2004
Chips de Radis Noir
[Black Radish Chips]
This week's Campanier selection included three black radishes, oblong and rather large. Black radish is another one of those forgotten vegetables, so I was quite happy for the chance to experiment with it.
Last time I had bought a black radish, I had used it raw in a yogurt-dressed salad, and had been rather unimpressed. I now realise, by comparison, that it wasn't at a peak of freshness then : it was much limper than the...
"Chips de Radis Noir" continues »
February 23, 2004
Buckwheat Galettes
[Galettes de sarrasin]
Tomorrow is Mardi-Gras, the last day before Lent begins. The Mardi-Gras tradition in France, amongst other things, is to gorge on crepes, supposedly to use up the eggs and butter that you won't be allowed to eat until Easter. I am not religious and so I don't observe Lent, but I will gladly take any opportunity to eat crepes. And last Friday, when my friends Marie-Laure and Laurence came over for dinner, I decided to mak...
"Buckwheat Galettes" continues »
February 2, 2004
And The Sprouts Sprouted!
I harvested my first sprouts yesterday night, I'm so proud!
The pink radish was particularly vigorous, having grown hundreds of cute little green stems, and developped symmetrical roots, with tiny lashes, on the other side of the sprouter rack. Those guys had even started to suffocate the mixed seed sprouts on the bottom rack -- I'll have to remember that, and grow them on either side of an empty safety rack next time!
I immediately conducte...
"And The Sprouts Sprouted!" continues »
January 31, 2004
The Sprouted Seeds Project
At the lovely Pousse-Pousse boutique the other day, I bought myself a sprouter, and two tubs of sprouting seeds. A tub of pink radish seeds, and a tub of the "longevity mix", which includes alfalfa, broccoli, turnip, lentil, mustard, black radish and soy seeds.
They have a lot of other seeds to choose from, but the pink radish is peppery while the longevity mix has a more mellow taste (devoid of aniseed), so the duo seemed like a good place t...
"The Sprouted Seeds Project" continues »
January 30, 2004
Courgettes Rondes Farcies
[Stuffed Round Zucchini]
We buy most of our fruits and vegetables at our favorite little fruit stand in the rue des Abbesses, where the staff is friendly, greets us with big smiles, gets stuff for us from the back - often including a little freebie - and is always happy to discuss what's the best seasonal choice and how to prepare it.
But sometimes it's just more convenient to go to the Champion grocery store if it's on my way, and I have to ...
"Courgettes Rondes Farcies" continues »
January 24, 2004
Le Délicieux Confit d'Oignon de Jackie
Remember how I told you that Jackie and I, the cooking twins, had met in real life, in London? Remember how she had showered me with yummy food gifts? Well, this is one of them, coming directly from her kitchen, in its little jar.
I held the opening ceremony the other night. Cautiously removed the cute purple tulle hat and bow. Marvelled at the harmonious hand-cut strips of red onion in their rich burgundy-colored glaze. Took in the sweet and ...
"Le Délicieux Confit d'Oignon de Jackie" continues »
December 30, 2003
Crumble de Courgettes aux Champignons
[Zucchini and Mushroom Crumble]
On Christmas day, Maxence and his mother joined us for lunch at my parents'. My mother and I cooked for this meal too, preparing most of it the day before.
As a first course, we served a Zucchini and Mushroom Crumble, a recipe we had come up with a week before, during our Christmas-menu-brainstorming session. Elaborating menus is one of my favorite activities, and practicing it with my mother was a lot of fun :...
"Crumble de Courgettes aux Champignons" continues »
December 9, 2003
Galettes de Polenta Grillées
[Grilled Polenta Slices]
I have a strange relationship with polenta. I either love it or loathe it, depending on how it's prepared. If it's just been cooked and it's mushy, the smell and texture really put me off. But if you let it settle and you slice it, or even better yet, if the slices are grilled, then polenta is my very good friend.
And on Saturday night, grilled polenta slices are what I served with the Ginger Pineapple Chicken Skewers. ...
"Galettes de Polenta Grillées" continues »
December 7, 2003
Petits Rouleaux d'Aubergine Farcis
[Stuffed Eggplant Mini-Rolls]
Last night, Maxence and I threw a little dinner-party for my two dear friends, Marie-Laure and Laurence, and their respective boyfriends, Ludovic and Jean-Christophe. Over the next few days, I will post the menu for this dinner...
You can see us pictured here in our living-room : from left to right, Marie-Laure, Ludo, myself, Laurence and Jean-Christophe. Interesting detail on this picture : you remember Stéphan...
"Petits Rouleaux d'Aubergine Farcis" continues »
December 6, 2003
Frites de Patates Douces d'Egypte
[Egyptian Sweet Potato Fries]
When Maxence and I went grocery shopping in the ethnic stores of the rue de Clignancourt last week, we bought sweet potatoes. There were five (five!) varieties to choose from, so we asked the store attendant which variety was the sweetest, and he pointed us to the ones from Egypt, white-fleshed with a dark pink skin.
Tonight, I used them to make sweet potato fries in the oven. Very simple, very good....
"Frites de Patates Douces d'Egypte" continues »
November 29, 2003
The Incredible Thick-Lipped Vegetable
This morning, Maxence and I went for a stroll towards Barbès and Chateau-Rouge, a more ethnic part of the 18th arrondissement, just a few blocks from where we live. In the rue de Clignancourt, we stumbled upon a few small stores selling food (mostly) from the Antilles - the French Caribbean. We both love browsing around exotic grocery stores, and these reminded us very nicely of our recent vacation, as the Seychelles cuisine is somewhat similar...
"The Incredible Thick-Lipped Vegetable" continues »
November 3, 2003
Porcini Walnut Risotto
My sister Céline lives in Frankfurt, Germany. She is to come back to work in France at the beginning of next year, which makes me deliriously happy, but until then we have to make do with the weekends she comes to spend with us. This Saturday, after the traditional afternoon of shopping together, Céline came over for dinner. She is very appreciative of my cooking, so it's always a pleasure feeding her.
As a main dish, I prepared a porcini waln...
"Porcini Walnut Risotto" continues »
October 31, 2003
Boudin Antillais, Purée Maison
Last week-end, as Maxence was walking up the rue Lepic, he was lured into one of the many inviting charcuteries (a charcuterie is a store halfway between a butcher's shop and a deli). The boudin antillais was tempting, so he bought four small ones. Boudin antillais (a twist on boudin noir) is a specialty from the Antilles, the French Carribeans. They are blood sausages, made with bread, peppers, milk, onions, rhum, various spices and, well, por...
"Boudin Antillais, Purée Maison" continues »
October 3, 2003
Courgettes Rondes Farcies au Quinoa et à la Ricotta
"Man, I'm stuffed!" said the zucchini.
Tonight, Laurence and Marie-Laure are coming for dinner, and as a main dish, I will serve them Quinoa Ricotta Stuffed Zucchini.
Those small round zucchinis had caught my eye in the sidewalk stall of our produce store and I immediately saw, in blinking letters : "stuffed zucchini!". I got nine of them as there would be three of us, three always being a good number of items to have on a plate....
"Courgettes Rondes Farcies au Quinoa et à la Ricotta" continues »
Swiss Chard Pie
Spinach is one of the rare vegetables I will not eat. Possibly, this has to do with the green puke they were trying to pass off as spinach at summer camp. I did try real supposedly yummy fresh spinach, but could not take it. Bleh. The only form I can eat it in, is when it doesn't taste like spinach at all, in spinach ravioli for instance.
Now, people tell me swiss chard tastes very much like spinach, so my taste buds must be a bit weird, as ...