Updates: Print before you go!Updates: Print before you go!To ensure you have the most accurate information to accompany you on your Paris adventures, here is a list of updates on the restaurants and shops recommended in Clotilde's Edible Adventures in Paris.
This is the printer-friendly version that you can just print (using your browser's Print function) and slip in your book before you go. Click here for the browser-friendly version.
If you have updates or corrections of your own to submit, they are very welcome, and will be promptly added to this page.
Le Jardin d'Hiver du MeuriceAfter a redesign by Philippe Starck, Le Jardin d'Hiver du Meurice has been renamed Le Dalí, in honor of the surrealist artist, who was a regular guest of the hotel.
The furniture and décor are new (the ceiling is now decorated by a large canvas painted by Starck's daughter Ara), as is the lunchtime menu created by chef Yannick Alléno, but the teatime formules remain the same, and still feature Camille Lesecq's pastries.
228 rue de Rivoli, Paris 1er
M° Tuileries
01 44 58 10 44
Arômes et CépagesThe wine shop inside the Marché des Enfants Rouges becomes Versant Vins, and is now run by Jeanne Galinie.
39 rue de Bretagne, Paris 3ème
M° Filles-du-Calvaire
01 42 72 34 85
L'Artisan des SaveursThe salon de thé L'Artisan des Saveurs is now closed.
Instead, you can go to Mamie Gâteaux a few doors down, an über-charming tea salon and vintage shop run by a French-Japanese couple, Mariko and Hervé Duplessis.
Mamie Gâteaux
66 rue du Cherche-Midi, Paris 6ème
01 42 22 32 15
M° Sèvres-Babylone
Tue-Sat 11:30am-6pm; lunch served until 2:30pm.
Les ZingotsGilles Bénart has sold Les Zingots to people who currently run nightclubs in Paris (Le Baron, Le Paris Paris). At the time of writing, the new space has not yet reopened.
DélicabarDélicabar is now closed (please join me for a minute of silence). It has been replaced by an Italian restaurant called Primo Piano (01 42 22 02 42), as yet untested.
Cuisine de BarCuisine de Bar is in the 6th and not, as it is mistakenly listed, in the 7th. The rest of the information is correct.
8 rue du Cherche-Midi, Paris 6ème
M° Saint-Sulpice or Sèvres-Babylone
01 45 48 45 69
Les OrmesChef Stéphane Molé has sold Les Ormes, and is planning to open a new one outside of Paris. Chef Philippe Pentecôte has taken over, renovated the restaurant, and reopened under the name Le Petit Bordelais. (Three-course menu: 33 €; tasting menu: 45 €; à la carte: about 45 €.)
Le Petit Bordelais
22 rue Surcouf, Paris 7ème
M° Invalides
01 45 51 46 93
Les Cocottes de Christian ConstantLes Cocottes now has a phone number (01 45 50 10 31), but the restaurant no longer operates non-stop, and is now closed on Sundays. The new service hours are: Mon-Fri noon-2:30pm and 7pm-10:30pm; Sat noon-3pm and 7pm-11pm.
Autour d'un verreAutour d'un verre was closed for several months due to a leak in the kitchen ceiling; it is now open again.
21 rue de Trévise
Paris 9ème
M° Grands Boulevards
01 48 24 43 74
CojeanThe Cojean location on the basement floor of the Bon Marché is now closed.
CojeanCojean has changed the hours of operation for the Louvre location. The new opening hours are: Mon-Fri 11am-5pm; Sat-Sun 11am-6pm.
JeanChef Benoît Bordier has left Jean for Les Etangs de Corot in Ville-d'Avray (10 km to the West of Paris). His former second Anthony Boucher, a Pierre Gagnaire alumni, has taken his place; Alison Johnson, a New Yorker, has been hired as a pastry chef.
8 rue Saint-Lazare, Paris 9ème
M° Notre-Dame-de-Lorette
01 48 78 62 73
J'GoThe J'Go team has opened a second restaurant in the Saint-Germain area.
14 rue Lobineau, Paris 6ème
M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés
01 43 26 19 02
Open seven days a week
Rose BakeryRose Bakery has opened a second location in the 3rd arrondissement; it offers much the same dishes and desserts as the one on rue des Martyrs.
30 rue Debelleyme, Paris 3ème
M° Filles du Calvaire
01 49 96 54 01
Le Temps au TempsLe Temps au Temps is now under the ownership of a new chef who used to cook at the hotel Sofitel le Faubourg. The former owners, Sarah and Sylvain Sendra are now running a restaurant in the 5th, called Itinéraires.
Itinéraires
5 rue de Pontoise, Paris 5ème
01 46 33 60 11
M° Maubert-Mutualité
Le StübliLe Stübli has been purchased by bread baker Véronique Mauclerc (see page 159), and it is now her name that's on the awning. However, the pastry shop and salon de thé still operate as before, and she has her team making the same Austrian pastries, but she now offers a selection of her wood fire oven-baked loaves as well.
La FamilleBruno Viala has left to open his own restaurant (Monjul, 28 rue des Blancs Manteaux in the 4th, 01 42 74 40 15). Jaume Morera, a young chef from Barcelona, has taken his place and maintains the same style of cooking -- though one might wish for his own personality to shine through.
The bar area at La Famille has become more exciting with the arrival of Houssin Azizi, who mixes fun cocktails using molecular cuisine techniques (cocktails start at 8.50€).
Sadaharu AokiThe Port-Royal boutique in the 5th no longer offers a small salon de thé area. However, Aoki's pastries are served George Cannon's tea house in the 6th arrondissement.
Maison de thé George Cannon
12 rue Notre-Dame des Champs (map it!)
Paris 6ème
01 53 63 05 43
M° Saint-Placide
Paris-BrestIn the list of classic French pastries, the Paris-Brest is mistakenly said to be named after a bygone bicycle race. This race is, in fact, still in operation; see official website.
Pierre HerméPierre Hermé has opened his first Right Bank location a few steps from the Tuileries gardens; this new boutique focuses in macarons and chocolates.
Macarons & Chocolats
4 rue Cambon, Paris 1er
M° Concorde
Mon-Sat 10am-7pm
BaillardranThe Baillardran boutique and carts at the Montparnasse train station have been closed.
The next best source to buy their canelés is in Boulogne-Billancourt, just outside of Paris, and easily accessible by metro.
2 Boulevard Jean Jaurès / map it!
Boulogne-Billancourt
M° Boulogne Jean Jaurès
01 55 60 90 07
Alternatively, or to hold a comparative tasting, you can visit their competitor Lemoine at:
74 rue Saint-Dominique, Paris 7ème / map it!
M° La Tour-Maubourg
01 45 51 38 14
Arnaud LarherIn October of 2007, Arnaud Larher was awarded the Meilleur Ouvrier de France title in the Pâtisserie-Confiserie (pastry and candy-making) category. Félicitations Monsieur Larher !
He has also opened a second shop devoted to macarons and chocolate:
57 rue Damrémont, Paris 18ème
M° Lamarck-Caulaincourt
01 42 57 68 08
Pierre MarcoliniBelgian chocolatier Pierre Marcolini has opened a second Paris shop near the Opéra.
3 rue Scribe, Paris 9ème
01 44 71 03 74
M° Opéra
Patrick RogerChocolatier Patrick Roger has opened a new boutique in the 6th arrondissement:
91 rue de Rennes, Paris 6ème
M° Rennes
01 45 44 66 13
Tue-Sat 10:30am-7:30pm.
Jacques GeninChocolate artisan Jacques Genin, whom you could formerly only visit by appointment at his lab in the 15th, has finally opened a boutique, in which he sells his chocolates, caramels, and pastries.
133 rue de Turenne, Paris 3ème
M° République or Filles du Calvaire
01 45 77 29 01
Mon-Sat 11am-9pm.
The Good SeedSince the time of writing, US regulations have changed in regards to the import of small lots of seeds for planting and consumption; a written permit is now required.
As reader Steve Cook comments, "eating in Paris, and looking at what is available in vegetable markets and from seed merchants there, can be a great way to come up with ideas for new varieties to grow. One way to follow through on that is then to go back to the States and look in good seed catalogs for the things you want to try. A great seed company located in my home state of Oregon, Territorial Seed, for example, sells dozens of varieties that originated in France."
L'Épicerie de BrunoDue to the long-term closing of this spice shop when I was fact-checking the addresses in the book, I had to remove L'Épicerie de Bruno from the book. Thankfully, Bruno Jarry has since reopened his spiffy boutique off Rue Montorgueil, and you should absolutely pay him a visit.
Packaged up by hand on the premises, the spices, herbs, flowers, and peppercorns range from high-quality classics to brow-arching curiosities and enthusing additions to the cook’s pantry. The selection of chilies from France, Hungary, Spain, and Mexico is unrivaled, and prices are kept to a very reasonable level.
The friendly owner hosts a monthly open-door event called Les Apéros de Bruno, during which visitors can have a drink and sample his new products.
30 rue Tiquetonne, Paris 2ème
M° Etienne Marcel
01 53 40 87 33
Tue-Fri noon-7:30pm; Sat 10:30am-7:30pm
Massis BleueThe spice shop Massis Bleue (Paris 9ème) has moved a few steps around the block, to a new location at 26 rue de Trévise. The new owner has changed the name to Massis & Chirag.
Pierre OteizaPierre Oteiza has opened a second boutique in the Quartier Latin.
18 boulevard Saint-Michel, Paris 6ème
M° Saint-Michel
01 43 25 59 01
Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 1:30pm-7pm
La Librairie GourmandeLa Librairie Gourmande has moved to a new, larger location just one door up from the previous one. It is now at 92 rue Montmartre in the 2nd.
MoraMora has slightly expanded its opening hours on Saturdays. The store is now open from 9:30am to 1pm, and then from 1:45pm till 6pm.