Citrus Recipes
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[Bergamot Oranges]
I bought these two from a basket at the Batignolles market the other day, intrigued as I was by their label and shape (notice the cute nipples).
Alternative citruses have been getting more and more attention these past few years, with yuzus, combavas, kumquats and cedrats coming out of the shadows, infusing dishes with unusual flavors, and perking up restaurant menus ("Um, w...
And as if her company wasn't enough of a treat, Pim also brought me a gift from Sunny California. "It's from June Taylor", she said, "our local Christine Ferber".
In a pretty jar with square shoulders, strips of soft and chewy peel swimming in a velvety syrup. In a pretty jar that glows like an orange lightbulb, the false twins Sweetness and Bitterness, followed closely by their little sister, ...
Hold the fruit lightly in your left hand. With the edge of your right thumb nail, cut a slit through the thin skin, close to the stem. Pull the skin up and away carefully, trying to pluck most of the white strands from the little nostril. Keep tearing at the thin peel, working your way down and around, until the clementine is completely naked. If it is still clutching a few scraps of pith out of...
Kumquat and Pinenut Lamb Stew, Little Polenta Cake
[Kumquat and Pinenut Lamb Stew, Little Polenta Cake]
Last week, I had my parents and my sister over for dinner. It had occurred to me that the four of us met most often at my parents', and that it was high time I return the invitation, lest they start to wonder why they couldn't benefit from at least some of the good manners it had taken them years to inculcate in me.
Just a few days before th...
[Kumquat from Corsica]
I wrote a little ode to the Corsican clementine last winter, but it turns out one shouldn't flatter a citrus too much, lest it rest on its laurels and the following year's crop be a disappointment.
All was not lost, however, on the citrus front: the maltaise orange from Tunisia was honey sweet and remarkably juicy, and a recent visit to the organic market turned up this ...
Oyster Mushroom Salad with Apple and Bergamot
[Oyster Mushroom Salad with Apple and Bergamot]
Pleurotes, also known as oyster mushrooms or tree oysters, are these large greyish beige mushrooms with a round funnel-shaped hat, that grow in clusters on the trunk of trees -- they don't care much if said tree is dead or alive, if you must know. The flesh underneath the hat (and that part is called the hymenophore, aren't you glad you came) has ...
About a year ago, I posted a recipe for one of my favorite cakes, a flourless orange and ginger cake. In the course of the comment conversation, I mentioned that the recipe could also be made with other citruses, and Meyer lemons in particular. Meyer lemons are a variety of lemon, believed to stem from the love affair between an orange (or maybe a mandarin) and a lemon. They are said to be sweet...
In addition to the florentins, my little food gift packages for the holidays included orangettes, those little strips of candied orange peel dipped in dark chocolate.
I called these shortcut orangettes because I made them with candied orange rind I had bought at Ali Baba's Cave for Bakers. I could have called them Cheater's Orangettes too, but I thought it somewhat disparaging. You could candy...
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