(Not So) Chique

Le chique

One often hears complaints about how things aren’t the way they used to be, how everything is going downhill fast, how nothing works the way it should and nobody cares anyway, but back in the days, boy, <insert whatever was so great back then>.

I am wary of this kind of statement, not only because hindsight is subjective — ten years from now those same people will surely miss what they have today — but also because it’s a negative attitude, and I prefer to focus on the good things we have now. The past should not be used as an excuse to sit and whine and feel depressed, but as a source of lessons to learn, to preserve what still can be and even recreate the splendor of things past where applicable.

Oh, I have my share of nostalgia, but it is the sweet kind of nostalgia that derives from a happy and protected childhood, and as one moves on and grows up, it is easy to let go. But I have now reached the ripe old age of 26 and something strange has just happened: I have witnessed, with my own tastebuds, the downfall of a food item that simply isn’t the way it used to be.

Let me introduce you to… le chique. Le chique (up until a few hours ago I was sure it was spelled le chic and I liked that better) is a specialty from Les Vosges, a mountain range in the North-East of France where my parents have a vacation house. It is similar to what is called faisselle elsewhere in France, an unsalted soft curd cheese that comes in a double container. The inner container holds the cheese and has holes in it, so the whey can drain out into the outer container. When you eat the cheese, you can choose to make it as dry or moist as you’d like by draining it a little longer, or pouring a little of the whey back onto it.

The chique we love has pillowy curds that hold their shape in the bowl but soften and melt in the warmth of your mouth. The chique we love has a farm-fresh and clean taste, with earthy accents of hay and a subtle acidity. The chique we love is traditionally seasoned with salt, pepper, garlic, and chives, and served as part of a typical farmer’s dinner, but in my family we eat it for dessert with sugar or the frothy leftovers from a fresh batch of jam. But the chique we love seems to be more and more difficult to find.

We used to buy it from a cheese seller at the Gérardmer market, but he changed suppliers and now what he sells has so much acidity you need a bucket of sugar to make it palatable. We tried the other cheese stalls on that market, but not everyone sells chique and when they do it’s too dry or too watery, too grey or too yellow, too bland or too strong — a disappointment every time.

What happened to our chique? My parents ventured the guess that it is a question of cows: traditionally, the local breed is la vosgienne, a black and white cow, originally from Switzerland, whose particular talent is to withstand temperature changes and make excellent milk for munster cheese. But la vosgienne does not produce as much milk as some other breeds, and it was slowly replaced by better performers, such as the Prim’Holstein (a.k.a Hollandaise or Frisonne), until its headcount dwindled down from 125,000 to 3,000 and it almost disappeared in the seventies. Thankfully it hasn’t, protected as it was by local organizations, who promote its reintroduction in farms (la vosgienne is much better suited to the local weather) and organize cattle contests to encourage its breeding.

I hope this will bring back the real chique on our table. And in the meantime I’ll just have to make my own curd cheese.

  • http://thecookscottage.typepad.com deccanheffalump

    Hi,
    We call chique, paneer and make it from scratch and use it plain or in curries all the time.

  • josie

    on a completely different note, allow me to compliment you on your gorgeous china! i want bowls like those…

  • http://redladyblog.blogspot.com redladyblog

    I also thought chique looked mighty similar to curds I find in my saag paneer – yum!

  • http://bpwildfire.blogspot.com Brent

    Or is it similar to cottage cheese? Although I get the feeling that Chique is quite a bit saltier.

  • http://mollysmadeleine.blogspot.com molly

    hi clotilde – i’ve been reading chocolate and zucchini for a while now; i love your writing! not only has been an inspiration for me to start my own blog, but also an inspiration to experiment with my own homemade ricotta (amazingly delicious) and not to mention a newly voracious desire for some good chique.
    -molly

  • mike

    I noticed the same thing when I spent some time in Wales. All the diary, but especially the butter was soooo much better than what we get here the US. I always meant to look into that. I figured it was primarily diet and processing, but certainly could be species differences too. But boy do I miss that butter.

  • http://chezpim.typepad.com Pim

    Wonderful post, Clotilde.

    Thank you for brining attention to this alarming situation. The trend toward large dairy farms is edging many breeds of cow closer and closer to extinction. In the1950′s, there were at least 30 common breeds of milk producing cows in Europe, according to Jean d’Alos, an affineur in Bordeaux. Now there are only five, the most predominant being the “milk factory” Holstein. This shortage of diverse milk source has had a devastating effect on cheese making, the respect for the terroir is diminishing from the disappearing diversity of cows.

    How sad!

  • http://www.frunt.org Ant

    Looks a bit like brains… or is that just me?

  • kate

    Welcome to the American experience: where every culinary option available in the supermarket today is the result of intense market strategy surveys and bottom-line performance. I sound so negative, I know, but it’s the truth (especially when it comes to the dairy industry.) The only quality being considered is the quality of the leather underneath the bums in the board room.

  • http://www.winosandfoodies.typepad.com/ Barbara

    The dairy industry? Supermarkets are ruining most industries with bottom line performance. I have seen it in the wine industry after suupermarkets began selling wine.

  • http://www.IngredientSleuth.blogspot.com Ingredient Sleuth

    Another important reason to support the farmers’ markets, especially here in the U.S where we don’t have ongoing street markets. You still find REAL FOOD there — and not only fruits and vegetables but dairy products, meats, fish, honey, nuts, etc., etc. These local purveyors will be kept in business if we support them — they’re our last remaining hope for real quality! Click through to my site for a link to farmers’ markets schedules nationwide in the U.S. Your tastebuds will thank you! (Getting down off of my soapbox now …..)

  • Robin

    I grew up on a farm in Oregon. We had Guernsey cows that produced delicious milk. 2 acres of vegetable gardens and more than 30 assorted fruit trees. Now, I am in the bay area of California and it is hard work to find Raw Milk and cream at all. I travel 40 minutes each way on the Bus to buy it. I have all these great old cookbooks from the 30′s and 40′s and most of the dairy recipes need to be adjusted when using pasteurized milk. It just does not interact in the same way with various ingredients. My mother was right, when I left the farm as a very young woman, she said, “you will never eat this well again! ”

  • http://www.celiacchicks.com Kelly

    Interesting! I’ve been making my own kefir at home. I’m wondering if you’ve ever made your own cheese from either goat or sheep’s milk? I’d like to try. I seem to be allergic to cow’s milk and now, after reading the comments above, I’m wondering if most dairy allergies are because of the limited types of mass produced cow milk. Just a thought.

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