I am not the biggest ice-cream fan you’ll ever find. I like Haagen-Dazs and Ben & Jerry’s, but in fact I have realized that I would love it even more if they would just cut the ice-cream itself and leave me with the chunky things inside, chocolate chips, fudge, cookie dough, caramel, pralines, macadamia nuts. And when you really look at it, eating ice-cream as an alibi to eat chocolate chip cookies isn’t really going to hold in court, is it?

But still, even if it isn’t my favorite thing in the whole world (you know what that is : it starts with a “c” and is included in the name of this blog), I do sometimes feel like eating something sweet, cold, and creamy. We happen to have a Haagen-Dazs café just two blocks from us, at the foot of the Sacré-Coeur, which is rather convenient. I am personally not a fan of the renowned Berthillon ice-cream, which I find overrated and often too sweet. But I recently discovered Amorino, introduced to me by Laurence, one of my best friends who, having lived for a while in Milan, is quite the Italian ice-cream expert.

Amorino makes Italian-style ice-cream, and has several locations in Paris. An interesting thing to note about Amorino is that they’ll serve you as many flavors as you like, in a cup, a waffle cone or a focaccina (a little loaf of brioche) : I’ve seen a lady ask for six flavors in just one little cup, and the waitress obliged, without so much as raising an eyebrow.

Their ice-cream is laid out in the most lascivious way, filling those big metal vats in rippling ribbons, making it so appetizing you would dive in head-first if a glass casing didn’t protect the ice-cream from such uncontrolled behavior. Some ice-cream flavors are also decorated with matching toppings, which may very well land in your cup if you’re lucky (or if you ask nicely).

All the ice-cream flavors are in Italian, and this, for someone who barely knows two phrases in Italian (the first one being “Dov’e el bus?” and the other one, to my shame, “Un menu big mac“), makes the flavor selection process a little risky but fun, and just reading the list is like taking a mini-vacation : fragola, amaretto, banana, nutella, mango, limone, meringa, yogurt, baci di dama, maraschino, nocciola, lampone, straciatella…

They also have a way of serving their ice-cream slightly melted that is just perfect for my taste. Small wonder from someone who, as a kid, asked to microwave her ice-cream because it was too cold. (My parents wouldn’t let me.)

My latest visit there was just a week ago, after lunch on a brightly sunny weekday. I chose to have some fiore di latte, and a vanilla with cherry swirls flavor I can’t seem to recall the name of : amarancella? marancella? maracella? Somebody? In any case, the combo was simply fantalicious, and I have to say, a cup of ice-cream really revs you up between two client appointments.

– 47, rue Saint Louis en l’Ile – 75004 Paris
01 44 07 48 08
– 4, rue de Buci – 75006 Paris
01 43 26 57 46
– 4, rue Vavin – 75006 Paris
01 42 22 66 86
– c/o Lafayette Maison
35 boulevard Haussmann – 75009 Paris
– 17 rue Daguerre – 75014 Paris
01 43 20 15 78


Things Clotilde Loves

The French Market Cookbook
The French Market Cookbook

The love story between French cuisine and vegetables

  • From $16.39 / 12,85€
Taza Chocolate Bars
Taza Organic Stone-Ground Chocolate

Bold flavors and a unique texture for chocolate lovers

  • From $5
  • Adele

    Now that you’re an adult, you can microwave your ice cream anytime you want! I like to soften Haagen-Dazs slightly in the microwave before indulging. The edges get nice and creamy.

    I think you should systematically try all of the flavors at Amorino so you can report back to us. :~)


  • Kevin and I discovered Amorino on our trip to Paris in April. We hit the store on rue de Buci three (four?) times in two weeks! I LOVE gelato. Each time I went, I got the small bowl with three flavors, and tried so many, I’ve already forgotten which ones I had! I didn’t meet one I didn’t like. =) I also had some really good hazelnut gelato in Boston last weekend.

    As far as Berthillon goes, I was pretty unimpressed the first time I went. On my next trip there, however, I discovered their lemon-coriander ice cream. There’s one little shop on Ile St-Louis that almost always has it. It’s now my favorite ice cream in the world — I am addicted to coriander anyway, and who can pass up anything lemony? It’s spicy, tangy, creamy, and intriguing. I love it so much that I made white chocolate-lemon-coriander truffles last Christmas. They were a huge hit!

    Coincidentally, I blogged about organic frozen yogurt yesterday. =)

  • Not a fan of Berthillon?! Wait until Melissa reads that!

    But I’m sure she’ll be willing to do a taste-off with Amorino the next time we’re in Paris. Maybe even more than one, just to be sure.

  • Josie

    Ooh, this kind of ice cream is a big part of my childhood. I have relatives in Italy, by the Garda Lake, and I’ve been eating my way through many holidays there… it’s the best ice cream option, I think. So pretty, so many flavours…

  • Hande

    amareno? sour cherries???

  • christoph

    Salut Clotilde,
    from my experience the best ice cream can be obtained by yourself. We did it several times in the lab when we prepared the ice cream through the addition of half a liter of liquid nitrogen (-196 C) to the ice cream base. After stirring for 30 seconds you recive an ice cream with an unbelivable soft and creamy texture.
    I recently read about an english cook (Heston Blumenthal from “The Fat Duck” in Bray near London) who did also other unbelievable things in the kitchen with liquid nitrogen.

  • haagen daaz is a luxury where i am. comfort food. definitely comfort food. i’m not even sure whether i can even find amorino here. must ask at the italian restaurant here but their chef had retired. so, am waiting for their new chef to arrive.

  • Jacqueline

    It’s amarena, one of the collective favorites in my family.

  • Sylvie

    Il y avait un glacier exactement du même genre en bas de chez nous à Florence : une infinité de parfums, une texture parfaite, et un prix modique. On pouvait aussi demander 3 parfums dans une seule “boule”. Nous lui avons fait honneur tous les jours (et même deux fois le dernier jour !)

  • why have i never thought to microwave my ice cream?!! i’ve always just left it out for 20 minutes or so. surprising, especially since i’m not a patient person.

  • ok, true confessions:

    i used to put my icecream in the toaster oven! ethan used to give me a hard time about that one, especially when once it was in a plastic cup!

    i too prefer chunky icecream, the chunkier, the better. ben and jerry’s is fab, and not just because i’m from vermont! (new york super fudge chunk, anyone? or their absolutely divine mint chocolate chunk? thank god for their shop at Odeon) but if it’s got to be smooth, well then, it’s got to be unusual, like fromage de chevre (oberkampf) or olive oil (bac à glaces), both fabulous, not kidding!

    i have to say that i agree with you entirely about berthillon — what’s the big whoop? overpriced, miniscule portions, to boot. i mean it’s not bad by any means, but the homemade icecream place on oberkampf is way way better, in my book.

    we just recently discovered and love the amorino on ile st. louis — the nutella is absolutely fantastic! thanks for the tip on the multiple flavor option!

  • aru

    i just had some of that after lunch today!! two BIG scoops of fleur de lait and yaourt au fraise….YUMMMMMMMMMMMM!!!! :)

  • I live in a suburb with a heavy Italian influence – a local gelateria has a sign on the counter explaining the difference between gelato and ice cream (all in the air content if I remember correctly). The gelato maker gets a bit tetchy if you call it ice cream.

    I love ice cream AND gelato, possibly even a little more than that stuff starting with “c”.

  • Josie

    Hm, ice cream in the microwave. Well. Why not? I used to put milk on my pancakes as a kid, because I thought they were too hot to eat.

  • Thank you so much for the tip. We travel to Paris the end of next week. As we do every summer. And no doubt we will visit Amorino thanks to this log.

  • looks so good…
    we have gelatissmo here and flavours like rocher, tim tam, bubble gum…and they said is 98% fat free..not sure how true..but Italian ice cream just taste so yummie

  • Hi Clotlide,
    I think I went to Amorino when I was in Italy. Is it in that big mall with the glass arches? I remember getting w scoops for 1.50 euros. Personally, the best gelato I had was at Blue Ice Cream (a chain in Italy). The chocolate is to DIE for. It tastes like the best quality chocolate you can buy, and they also put a mini cone on top as a “hat.”

    Jessica ;-)

  • I think I need to know more about the nitrogen, although I suspect it’s hardly an ingredient you can buy as a ‘civilian’? I love Italian ice cream (I mean gelato), and my absolute favourite is Stracciatella. I like chocolate in ice cream to be in tiny little bits…

  • All – Glad to read that I’m not the only one microwaving ice-cream — or gelato : in French, it’s “glace” whatever the origin! And I think the mystery flavor’s name was amarancella, a variation on amarena.

    Christoph – Intriguing! Do you conduct those nitrogen experiments in your own kitchen or at the lab? Will we get some of that on Saturday? :)

  • Christoph

    In fact I thought of something like this for saturday, but the transport of the liquid nitrogen from the lab to our apppartment via the RER seems a bit risky, sitting there with some ice cold liquid producing white steam in your bag. But I think I have another funny idea. Let’s see.

  • cathy

    Why IS good ice cream so hard to find in paris? — everything else is sooooooo delicious. But things are changing.The best ice cream/gelato is the latest to arrive — at Scoop, just opened in the 1st arrt on rue st honore. Cozy, modern design — you can sit down and relax at the ‘bar’ or on the sofas upstairs. Frozen custard from the US! Plus they have super milkshakes, smoothies and cookies.

  • Maxelchey


    Do you know where this Amaretto ice cream come from in Italy, I would love to import this in my country (Chile) ??
    I travelled in Italy last year and had very good gellati but different from south to north, North were definitely the creamy and softest ones… Had some crazy suprise also in Taiwan, exactly same ice cream as Amorino in Paris…

  • Jack

    Well guys, know I understand what makes the difference: FRESHNESS of ingredients and ice cream. Like in a restaurant dont go for the 25 pages menus! Good, fresh Italian ice cream only @ newly opened POZETTO (may be with 2 Z?), just 12 flavours, very nice artist works, huge portions, nice staff etc not the starbucks look of Amorinnos. Ice cream cannot be seen as it is in a fancy refrigerators with holes but TASTE THE DIFFERENCE not the sight!. I found it in July, in Rue du Roi de Sicile straight in the Marais not far from hotel du ville

  • odeline

    oh yeah, Jack is right, no comparison. Pozzetto kicks hard. Fresh and tasty. It is white and arty the shop, should not miss it.

  • I was trying to find information on the Amorino shop I visited in Paris in June, 2004 while on my honeymoon, and I was able to locate it thanks to you! It was the shop at 4 rue de Buci – 75006 Paris and it was sooooo wonderful. We also visited the shop at 47 rue Saint Louis en L”Ile – 75004 and it was great too.

    Best ice cream EVER. I recommend the lemon sorbet. Mmmmmm…

  • helene

    Wow, I have not tried anything else but POZZETTO was really the best Gelato of my life. We almost missed our flight to “catch” another gianduja-fiordilate cone. And do not miss their espresso. Unfortunately I just bought a can of their ground coffee and I miss it so much that I should plan another trip to Europe to get a full supply!!

  • Elisabetta

    I am an Italian leaving in Paris and I think that Amorino is an insult to Italian ice-cream.
    Maybe you only tried the flavours without fruits, but if you try those you’ll be disappointed to find out how artificial they taste…
    If you want to get good italian ice-cream in Paris go to Pozzetto (rue du Roi de Sicile, close tyo the BHV). They also have good hot chocolat and a wonderful ‘biecerin’

    Let me know,


  • Elizabeth

    Does anyone know anything more about the Blue Ice chain in Rome, Italy? Their Orange Yoghurt Ice Cream is the best I’ve ever had.

  • After an acquaintance tipped me off about Amorino, I found your post through Google. I must have gone to Amorino three or four times during my last trip to Paris a couple of weeks ago.

    When I go back on Monday, I think I will check out some of the other places your commenters mention. Thanks, and I look forward to reading more of your blog. :-)

  • Chris – I suggest you go to Pozzetto instead (39 rue du Roi de Sicile in the 4th), it is my new favorite. The gelato is prepared daily and you can really taste the difference — last time I went, they were out of the yogurt and I was so disappointed they made a fresh batch for me while I waited…

  • milabarreto

    Wish I were there to tast this new address suggested. Now I’m in Brazil, enjoying our winter! ;)

  • wa

    Perth, Western Australia has one in Freo and another one opening soon!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Anyone coming to or living in Western Australia?

  • Marlowe

    We (my foodie alter ego and I) are shocked, yes, shocked at your summary dismissal of Berthillon. Granted, there are lots of things not to like about the place — that it is closed half the summer, for one. (If that’s not provocation, I don’t know what is.) And I do agree that the Cult of Berthillon is a bit cloying, as are a couple of their flavors. (Their misguided rendition of ‘stracciatella’ (two “c’s, I believe) is a tooth-achingly sugary flop.)But have you tried the kumquat sorbet (just now coming into season)? The cherry? The Calvados granité? And how can a “C” lover not love their C-sorbet, so rich in cacao that one can’t believe there is no cream? Unlike you, I scream for ice cream, though my indulgences have become rarer over the years. If you have not tasted the above flavors, I think you need to give Old Bertha another chance…

  • Marlowe – You may have noticed that this post is almost three years old, and my tastes in the ice cream department have evolved a great deal. It may be worth an update…

  • Oh how i miss amorino. I discovered it with a friend my first time in Paris 3 years ago, made multiple trips there, and even took a picture of me and my ice cream. Just wanted to say your blog was one of the first i saw (i have since started my own) and i’m still dying to make your chocolate pistachio surprise cake, but have yet to find pistachio paste…one day, i will. thanks!

  • Virginie

    On my way to my son’s school, I found this marvellous icecream shop: Martine Lambert 192, rue de Grenelle. I can only recommend it; I think it competes favorably with Berthillon. try in particular “caramel au beurre sale” ou “peche de vigne”
    Enjoy !!

  • Don’t know if you still have a love for chunky things in ice cream, but I adore it. One of my favourite combinations is crushed up oreo cookies with peanut butter. One semester at university I realized I was consuming way too much ice cream so I cut it out and just smeared peanut butter on the oreos instead. My roommate started looking at me funny.

Get the newsletter

Receive FREE email updates with all the latest recipes, plus exclusive inspiration and Paris tips. You can also choose to be notified when a new post is published.

View the latest edition of the newsletter.