Croatia Recommendations

Korčula
An alleyway in the old city of Korčula, photographed by Tona & Yo

Maxence and I are about to leave for a vacation in Croatia; the plan is to drive down the Dalmatian coast from Split to Dubrovnik, and chill for a few days on the island of Korčula.

If you’ve been to Croatia before and have food or drink recommendations to share — specialties we should try, restaurants we must visit, ingredients we can bring back — I would very much like to hear them!

  • http://www.vegoftheweek.com vegoftheweek

    Blitva

    Swiss chard with olive oil, potatoes, and garlic. Of course I’m going to give a veggie dish suggestion!

  • http://gotnomilk.wordpress.com kitchenetta

    I was in Split this past June, and I highly recommend the Bistro Black Cat. It is in the old town, outside the Palace walls, to the southeast, address: Segvica 1

    You can eat indoors or outdoors, and their food can’t be beat.

    While in Dubrovnik, go to the Buza Bar – there’s a sign outside that says Cold Drinks. It is without a doubt the world’s most beautiful setting for a bar (you can also take a dip in the Adriatic while there).

    Have a great time – it’s beautiful.

  • billy

    i really don’t know much about restaurants at the coast but i recommend you to try fish called orada and Croatian famous tomato soup (Juha od rajčice),i guess you can find it everywhere:)

  • Natacha

    I was in Croatia last year and I have to confess that the food didn’t impress me… It is a mixture of not-so-good Italian with the so-called international cuisine and a twinkle of Adriatic. But I can assure you it is worth to go – it was one of my best holidays EVER! About the food, I’m Portuguese, you know, so we have a lot of good fish, meat, vegetables, desserts and everything else you can imagine, superbly done, so it is difficult to beat our cuisine.
    In Korcula I ate some pasta in one of those restaurants by the seaside – I chose the one with the most interesting view -, nothing worthy of comment. In Dubrovnik I went twice to the Konoba Locanda, which is in front of the port, tucked in the magnificent walls. The food is nice and the prices are GREAT for Dubrovnik standards. The best meal I had was in Hvar, in a terrible overpriced restaurant but I can’t remember the name. What I do remember is the beer’s name: Ojusko. Always. Lasko (which is from Slovenia) is also good but the Croatian beer is better.

  • hana

    Dear, still looking forward to buy your book and then visit Paris for the first time, armed with your advices. Till then, take some of mine. I am form Croatia, and this would be my first picks: On Peljesac (its on a road from Split to Dubrovnik) go to Mali STon. They grow shells in front of the restaurants, so – shells, their famous black risotto, grilled fish, and for desert some Makaruli – its a cake from pasta and walnuts with cinamon, I adore it. In Dubrovnik there are many posh and expencive places, and from them I would recomend Nautica- spectacular view and pretty good kitchen. Try to go to Konavle, area near Dubrovnik, there are Konavoski Dvori, something beautifull, with great home made bread. On Korcula dont forget to buy cookies to bring home- specially Amaretti and Klasuni. In Split I would go to some small restaurant, like Kod Joze, or even Kod Fife, wich have totaly homey kitchen. Buy home made olive oil on Korcula. And maybe some schnapps too – from figs – smokovaca, or walnuts – orahovica. Have a nice time, great swiming and meet some special people.

  • Suzi

    Just be sure to get seafood whenever possible – you won’t find it fresher anywhere else!

  • http://cindc.wordpress.com C

    While we’re on the subject of travel recommendations, my girlfriend and I are traveling to Europe in November and have a 7-hour layover in Paris. What do you recommend we do with our short time there? I’ve never been to France, but she has and isn’t particularly fond of it. I’d love to change her opinion of Paris!

  • http://www.flickr.com/photos/stinkerbell1 kkeenan2

    I went to Croatia last year and you will love it.

    From Dubrovnik depending on time a great day trip is to go to Mostar. There are some incredible places to eat near the bridge that serve all of the regional meat specialties. And it is incredible to see the changes and see the country side.

    For food in Dubrovnik… well anything seafood is great, there are some good gelateria (I am biased towards the italian version though :)) and pizza is good as well. I found that there was less of a food culture and more of a walk, wander and beach culture.

    There is lots to do in Korcula (which could include a day trip to Mjlet if you want something nature-y). Top on the list would be to rent a scooter or bikes and go out to Lumbarda or Vela Luka (you may even want to stay there in a B&B instead of in Korcula city- Pansion Marinka in Lumbarda could be a good option as it is a working farm/winery). They have wine and olive oil production there and it is a lovely ride around the island, which might still have lavande awaiting la recolte, depending on when you are there. In Korcula itself, make sure to go to Cukarin and get yourself an amareta (you won’t regret it!) and dont miss the market just outside the city walls (cant miss it. Korcula city is tiny!)

    I am normally a red wine girl, but the whites in Croatia are really worth the time.

    That and enjoy the adriatic, it is one of my favorite places to be!!

  • Shannon C

    My favorite meal in Croatia was on a tiny island off of Hvar island called St. Klement. The small family run restaurant is called “Dionis” (and I believe it’s only open for lunch). You can rent a small boat on Hvar island to take you out to St. Klement. There are no roads or electricity on St. Klement (restaurants/homes are run on generators)and you must take a small little hike to the restaurant from the beach. It’s a beautiful location – an open air restaurant on a vineyard with views of the water, and the food was delicious. Grilled squid, eggplant, roasted potatoes, grilled lamb, and home made herb infused liqueur; amazing. Definitely call beforehand and make a reservation.

  • http://collectedorange.com sam

    We did a similar itinerary back in 2004. In Dubrovnik we fell prey to a lot of the restaurants intended for the cruise crowd–all advertising squid ink pasta.

    We had an incredible meal in Korcula. I think it was at “Adio Mare.” It was mentioned in a New York Times travel article that ran right before our trip, so it might be out of date, but there were some other good suggestions too.

    Enjoy.

    (By the way, we moved to Paris in July from San Francisco and have been enjoying many of your recommendations. Thanks.)

  • http://theendivechronicles.com/ Erin

    oooh! How exciting. I have a friend that lives in Zadar and have been meaning to visit for ages. From what I learned from her the cuisine is an amalgam of flavors from the Med and Eastern Europe (shocking eh?)and is for the most part quite light. Also from what I understand Croatian seafood is not to be missed. Have a wonderful trip and give the horn a little honk if you are anywhere Zadar.

  • http://www.heythattastesgood.com jill

    I spent a week on Murter Island and the surrounding area, we had an impossible time finding fresh shellfish (to cook), but I had a good side dish of ‘dalmation spinach’ fairly often, which was always cooked with potatoes, and was delicious. Have fun! I want to go back ASAP and go down to Split and Dubrovnik, as I didn’t make it there this time around.

  • Emanuele

    Hi Clotilde,
    I was in Croatia in 2005: in Korcula there is an excellent restaurant in the inner part of the island, which serves an outstanding rosemary ice cream (!).I don’t remember its name, but it was mentionned in routard’s guide, so if you have it don’t miss!

  • Kevin

    We spent the fall of 07 in the region, mostly in the interior, though we did make trips to Dubrovnik and Istra. Our last trip to Split was 7 years back, so not very useful in terms of restaurant suggestions.

    Croatians are now very much into rediscovering their own cuisine, and there are many young chefs using fresh local ingredients. We found the Time Out Croatia guide extremely useful, though we didn’t buy it until after our Dubrovnik trip.

    Specialties: Seafood is still good, even if the Adriatic is supposedly fished out and much may be imported. Black risotto (with squid ink) is good and widely available. There are good mussels and oysters – try the oysters from Ston near Dubrovnik (they’re called kamenice). Another classic is octopus salad – salata od hobotnice (they also roast octopus under a metal cover covered with coals “ispod sača”). Try a brodet – long-stewed seafood dish with wine and vegetables, often served with polenta. There are great little fried anchovies – girice.

    Good standard seafood places beloved by locals in Dubrovnik: Kamenice restaurant for oysters or fried fish – this is on one of the squares inside the walls, Peskarija Lokanda for fish in the old fish market at the old port – don’t be put off by the fantastic location and the line at normal hours, the food is great, if standard. Restaurant Sesame near the Hotel Imperial has been good in the past.

    In Dubrovnik definitely visit Buža at sunset or at night if the moon is out. It’s outside the walls on the sea side and spills down the cliffs with a view out to the open sea.
    There’s a traditional market in the old town in the morning. Try to be there at 12:00 when the bells cause the pigeons to swoop around the square in unison.

    The dried figs in Dalmatia are very good, as are fresh ones if in season. Someone mentioned blitva, often translated as “mangold” and usually served with potatoes and garlic (dalmatinski krompir). There’s good local arugula (rukola) served as salad. If you were going to Istra I would suggest truffles (though I think I heard this season was bad). Still, they should have them on the coast as well, perhaps in a traditional handmade noodle dish, fuži s tartufima. Try kajmak – a kind of soft cheese — at the market or if you see it on a menu.

    Pastries – much of Croatia was part of the Austro-Hungarian empire. There are the usual apple strudel or cherry. A northern Croatian specialty is prekmurska gibanica, which has layers of apple, nuts, and cheese or poppy seeds. They also do baklava.

    Warning: the “white coffee” café au lait served in most hotels with breakfast is decaf. Get an espresso instead if you can.

    Wines are very good along the coast, both whites and reds. Grk, Postup, Plavac, Dingač – and now there are many named vineyards offering them. Try prošek, which is a sweetish fortified aperitif, at one of the bars on Stradun, the main corso. Also try travarica – a local liqueur made traditionally from figs and herbs. (There are many Croatian liqueurs, including rogač flavored with carob and biska flavored with mistletoe.

  • http://skinnygourmet.blogspot.com Er

    Sadly I have no recommendations, only envy. I have heard nothing but wonderful things from people who have visited Croatia. Sounds like a beautiful vacation.

  • Suze

    I went there several years ago and have wonderful memories of cevapi, a grilled sausage similar to the Middle Eastern kafta. Eat it with raw onion, lots of wine and bread to sop up the juices. Dobar tek!

  • http://tamarindandthyme.wordpress.com Su-Lin

    I’ve got a Croatian friend and everytime she heads home, I ask for a jar of marvellous orange and fig jam. There are a few brands around and they’re all delicious!

    It’s not gourmet but she always misses cevapcici (beef and pork kebabs) served with ajvar (a mixture of roasted red peppers and aubergine).

    I also remember a honey liqueur that she brought back one year…

  • http://www.junkdrawer.typepad.com junkdrawer

    I am a TV Director for the Travel channel in the states and I just finished a shoot on Saturday in Croatia. Guess what, I went to all 3 places!

    I was on a cruise ship, so I don’t have the best food recs…but, I must say, go to the local market in Split. By god it was gorgeous. It’s just your average everyday market but it is nestled under trees, down by the port. The photos are ENDLESS.

    In Dubrovnik, we stayed outside of the old town in a more locale-ish region. But I highly recommend checking out the views from the Grande Palace Dubrovnik. It’s a touristy place, but the views from the pool deck were spectacular. I think they had a sushi bar there.

    In Korcola, there are tons a great little eateries, the most famous being just down the way from Marco Polo’s house. I also recommend checking out the little shop, Gatto Roxo. It is filled with art and jewlery crafted by local Dalmation Artists. If you go, please ask for the owner Irena and let her know you found out about her shop from the TV crew. She has GREAT stuff in there and the prices are very reasonable.

    Good luck!!

  • Debbie

    We had a fabulous holiday there last year.

    The seafood was much better than that in Paris and so fresh and beautifully cooked. Simple and delicious.

    The white wines were great, but I did not like the reds. A bit too thin (and with no great depth of flavour which is what I love in a red).

    We found Croatia to be very cheap and the people exceptionally friendly and welcoming.

    Came back with local hazelnuts and honey in jars. Delicious flavour as the two combine over time. Also lots of lovely handmade lace (tablecloths and other linens). The olives were delicious and they have a nice lavender cultivar which makes a good essential oil. That is what I use to perfume the rinse water for my household linens.

    The beaches were great (though rocky which I am not used to) and I spent hours every day swimming in the crystal clear water. It was cold, but lovely and refreshing.

    Have a wonderful time!!!! We went in september and it was great.

  • Pandamonium

    Me and my friends were in Croatia (Dubrovnik and Hvar) earlier this summer. If you make it to Hvar, there are a couple places I’d recommend but as for Dubrovnik, we were unfortunate to not find a restaurant that impressed. My favorite meal was during a day trip to Mostar.
    I do recommend the Buza Bar, mainly for the view. There’s a red pepper spread that’s tasty, I think it’s called Avar and also a local snack item called burek, pastry filled with meat and cheese. Very filling and hard to find later in the day (they sell-out). “Pan” Pivo is a personal favorite.

  • Claire

    I had fish or seafood served with potatoes, blettes, garlic and olive oil pretty much every evening and it was amazing. Stick with things like that and you’ll eat well, the simple seafood is lovely.

    I also ate myself silly on the most beautiful figs (I was there almost exactly this time last year.) Look out for little old ladies (occasionally their grown-up sons will be helping them out!) selling their produce on tables along the roadside. You’ll find these beautiful figs there, for next to nothing, and lots of preserves and other fruit and veg too.

    I do love Croatia but if you have time, drive for a day into Montenegro and see the Bay of Kotor. I found it more stunning than anything I saw in Croatia and so much less heaving with tourists (Dubrovnik especially is a nightmare in this respect, beautiful as it is: I recommend walking the walls – a truly stunning experience – as SOON as they open in the morning, before it gets to the point where you can’t see the city for cruise ship passengers).

  • http://chelleline.etsy.com michelle

    if you’re going to swing by istria, i highly recommend staying at the stancija negricani near vodnjan. it’s a family run guest house and they cook the best meals.

  • Richard

    Was there in June, ’07. Restaurant Sesame, Dubrovnik, was our Croatian dining delight, so much so, we dined there twice. It is located just a bit beyond the north portals to the old town. Check out my web site. Links for switching between parts I and II are at the top of each page.

  • Joan

    bon voyage!

  • Lox

    Dear C&Z,

    In the city of Korcula there is just one good place to eat, all the rest could fall into the category “tourist trap”. The place in next to the city walls and the nearby tower, it’s called Sea Horse and is open odd hours. Eat some blue fish while there. Since peninsula Peljesac is there: try their special sweet oysters (the best from all the continents I tried them) and also some fresh sea urchins, just a drop of lemon… They also sell fresh sea shells, like black mussels and such.

    Some places (the other end of Korcula) serve great lamb so find a good farm where they also serve food.

    As for gifts: buy dried figs lined up like a necklace with laurel leaves in between. Try local olive oil or rose schnaps (they say it’s best for women’s problems) or some local cheese.

    There are many fab places in Croatia, but it requires a bit of research. Be carefull of frozen food and importet meats.

    LPL

  • http://www.teaandfood.blogspot.com Aaron Kagan

    One word: schlag. At least I think that’s how it’s spelled. It’s the heavy cream served on top of hot chocolate. I had it in Zagreb at the age of ten and will never forget it.

  • Natasa

    You sholud certainly try two dishes called “popara” and “gregada”, both traditional in Dalmatia (cooked with various fish, scampi, squid, …). Unforgettable.
    Restaurant recommendation: Bota Šare in Split and Ston (near Dubrovnik)

  • Janka

    I don’t like seafood, so I will list the meat-y foods we had ;-)
    Cevapcici – ground beef, seasoned with lots of paprika, shaped like sausage and grilled. Served with ajvar (bell pepper paste, hot or mild) and lots of chopped onion
    Pljeskavica – ground meat (pork?), formed into patties and grilled. Served with ajvar and onions (stinky ;-)
    Raznici – grilled skewers with pieces of meat, onion (you guessed it), and veggies, such as bell peppers or potatoes
    Burek – cottage cheese or ground meat filled pastry, usually quite fat (fried), but very good and filling
    Pastries in general, as mentioned above, they cannot deny austrian-hungarian tradition ;-)
    Ice-cream is also good, similar to italian
    Try the different fruits/nuts in honey (almonds, walnuts, figs, dried apricots) and specialty honeys (different herbs)
    Slivovica – prune schnaps, at least 40% alcohol. But they have different schnaps from different fruits, which you can actually taste.
    Most tourist restaurants serve pizza and pasta, but sorry, for the world’s best pizza, I’d travel further south and get the original ;-)
    Paski sir – cheese from the island of Pag
    We usually ordered a mixed grill plate for two. Not only 3 hungry persons could be fed, bit you also have a little bit of everything and can taste you way through ;-)
    And yes, there are figs everywhere… now they should be at peak (we were on the island on Krk in May, no figs then :-()
    Oh, I remember eating a heavenly grilled dorada with lots of garlic-parsley olive oil in a restaurant in Opatija.
    Good olive oil can also be found.
    I’ll write again if I remember more…
    Enjoy your stay! I allways do!

  • Janka

    Oh, I forgot:
    Very important words when buying ajvar to bring home ;-)
    ljuti = hot
    blagi = mild

  • Nassim

    Clo,

    est ce que tu pourrais vérifier si la Banana Split est un dessert de Croatie?

    Et si tu trouves le disque de Lio en croate prends le!

  • http://trulyscrumptiousness.blogspot.com Sadhbh

    Clotilde, Im heading over to Croatia on Sunday, going the opposite way…from Dubrovnik up throught the islands to Split! Hope you have a fabulous time…There are a few recommendations from a croatian gastroblog in the comments of my last post…its probably worth a look!

  • http://blog.adrianopetrich.com adriano

    The best advice that I have to do is VISJNIA (sour cherries) they are everywhere and they are wonderful

    on Split just outside the fishmarket theres a large square go upwards and you will find the best visjnina Icecream.

  • Ewa

    I have been many times to Croatia and love it so here is some advice from me. It would be nice to take a trip to Dubrovnik, Split and then some islands. Hvar would probably be the nicest.

    First about the food. The tomatoes and the sallads are the best, also the stuffed pepper and the lamb. But you have to try all this in the county or hole in the walls. Not tursist places. If you are drivng around and see a lamb roasting on the side of the steet stop and eat there. Those are the best places.

    Traveling – The island of Brac, which is right next to Hvar, is a really nice place. There are a lot of small places one can stay. Small hotels or even apartments.

    Dubrovnik is a nice 3 day trip. It gives you enough time to see the old city and do the whole tour of the walls and then some restaurants and especially a small café which is located outside the city walls over a large cliff overlooking the sea. The sign says “cold drinks with the most beautiful look.” there is also a small island right outside dubrovnik (lokrum) which used to be a monastery.

    The best place to reach the islands is the city of split. It also has some old roman buildings and a well kept palace which is worthwhile seeing. Then, you can reach the islands of Hvar and Brac from the port. There are cheap ferries that leave throughout the day. Hvar is the most popular island and it is fairly busy in the summertime. It is the sunniest place in Croatia and hotels are even advertising that you get a free accommodation for the days when it rains. Check out about “pakleni otoci” – hell’s islands.

    From the island of hHar, you can go to the island of Brac with small boats. There is a really nice beach there.

    In general, beaches will be pebble or stone and not that many sandy beaches.
    So, it really depends if one does not mind not having many sandy beaches.

    Have a great time!

  • http://coprnica.wordpress.com vale

    Hello. I am from Slovenia, country near by Croatica. Others tell you about authentic Croatian food almost everything. Just for info. Cevapcici, pleskavica and burek are not Croatian but Bosnian food. But you can try it in Croatia. Try Adriatic squid if you hava a chance, but be careful because they serve them without cleaning (whole with head and everthing) so ask for clean one. Traditional Dalmatia food is also muckalica (pork meat with vegetable). You should also try fish prepared in gradela (kind of barbecue). They have really good fish soups with vegetable and one of the most traditional is called brodet. You should also try Dalmatian ham, called prsut. And the last one pasticada, similar to muckalica but with cow meat.

    About wines, the best are teran, merlot, kabernet, opolo, plavac, dingac, postup – red wines; malvazija, posip, pinot, kujundzusa, zlahtina, muskat – white wines.

    In Dalmatia you should try prosek.

    And you must buy their olive oil. It´s really good.

    All information about their gastronomy you have here.

    Have a nice trip.

  • Susan

    Something unusual (at least for New England in the US) and delicious (to me)was small cans of pumpkin seed oil for making salads, etc. Also, legal and not too heavy souvenir to bring home to your friends who couldn’t go.

  • American in London

    Hi Clotilde,

    Last April (2007), my friends and I spent over a week in Istria, Croatia (a bit further north of where you’ll be), and I agree with Debbie’s comment earlier that the white wines we tried were generally tastier than the red ones.

    Most of the Croatian whites we tried were made from the malvasia grape, and Ortonero Art was the least flavorless of the bunch. (I say all this as someone who likes to cook and pair wine with food, but who isn’t a connoisseur at all).

    Most Croatian wines available in Rovinj and Pula (two largeish towns in Istria) started at around 150 Kuna (£15) a bottle at the shops, which was too much for what they were. After a few days of trying out a lot of local wines, we kind of gave up and bought cheap bulk wine to make sangria.

    Arman Winery made a dessert wine that was good, though.

    We had more fun trying local grappas, which everyone will offer you (at least in Istria, anyway).

    If you make it further north, by te way, the hill towns of Motovun and Groznjan are gorgeous.

    Bonnes vacances, and looking forward to hearing about your trip!

  • Sarah

    In Dubrovnik, we went to some of the “best” restaurants and the food was subpar so I would go for atmosphere and cost (i.e., an expensive meal is not necessarily going to be a good meal). One exception was Lokanda Peskarija – nice outdoor setting, reasonable prices, good food.

    I would not spend more than one day in Split. Definitely go to Konoba Varos – this was the best meal we had in Croatia. You will need to make a reservation several days in advance. Croatian wines are more miss than hit, but we found some nice wines from Korcula.

  • Caroline

    Hello!
    I visited Croatia last fall — we had the most amazing vacation!
    On Korcula, there is a bar on top of an old medieval tower, accessible only by a ladder. Be sure to go there for drinks, its a really cool place. In Split, try the pizza (best I ever had) and the gelato. Otherwise, the grilled squid anywhere is worth a try, as well as the octopus salad, offered on almost any menu in Dalmatia. Enjoy your trip!!!

  • Ivona

    Well, just landed in LA, I was home on Korcula for a week for a short visit to paradise :)
    Most of the people above know what they talking about, some of them not :)

    Korcula – go to Cukarin, a little store next to the old city, they sell ancient recipe cookies (that have nothing to do with austro hungarian empire as some of the people suggested). go there and splurge on cukarini, klasuni and other cookies that lady makes. Wake up early since she will sell them all by 10 am.
    It is not true that most of the croatian whites are based on Malvasia. Korcula is known for its whites, while Peljesac and Hvar are known for their reds. Mali plavac, grape abundant in this area is an ancestor of Zinfandel. Also On peljesac, Grgic (the one who made first Californian wine to win over French wine) opened his winery 5 years ago. check it out!
    go to Lumbarda and drink some of the grk wine. White grown on sand, it will make you happyyy. also wines from that island are Posip – two versions one from Cara one from Smokvica. I prefer one from Cara, since the soil has more sand. Try Rukatac, amazing white from the center of the island.

    In the Vela Luka, there was an ex priest that makes goat and other cheeses. amazing.

    for meat, in Smokvica there is a butcher, that has the best veal in the world. Go and buy some and bake it by yourself. Unfortunately can’t recommend a good place for veal. Fish is amazing all over. Eat some of the octopus salad. Try black risotto. Try salted fish; on Korcula they don’t salt only sardines but every fish they can get their hands on. Eat some sea urchins with bread ( I recommend one from Cara’s bakery) on the shore of the sea, and wash it down with some red wine.

    There is lot of agro-tourism places, but the best place to eat is in somebody’s house. I am inviting you over to my dad’s house for a meal if you want :) just contact me :) also on the islands there is restaurants oriented towards the sailing crowd. Those places have amazing food.

    Go to Bacvica, a hidden cove (crazy road to get there watch out!!!), go check out the small islands south from the island. Do a hike to top of Kom, a hill in the middle of the island. When you get on top, the view is amazing (45 min hike each way). Visit somebody’s vineyard. Posip is ready to be eaten now :) Eat some figs from tree.

    I love my island. Hope you will love it too.
    Apologies if it sounds weird I am soooo jetlagged :)

  • Nicole

    My sister and I traveled to Dubrovnik in 2007 and ate at a wonderful little vegetarian restaurant named Nishta (the word for ‘nothing’ in Croatian). You can find Nishta at Prijeko 30 in the old town. I had a pasta dish infused with rosemary and my sister tried seitan for the first time and loved it! Highly recommend. Read more about it and a few other restaurants in Dubrovnik here.

  • Sus

    Hiya,

    I’m very jealous, you will be travelling to one of the most beautiful places in Europe. The seafood, as I’m sure you know, is fantastic along the Adriatic. Do try the “ligne na zharu” or fresh grilled squid and the crne risotto or black squid ink risotto. Kras chocolates from Zagreb are also quite good.

    Have a great trip and can’t wait to see your pics!

  • Andrew

    No suggestions because the last time any of my family were there, it was called Yugoslavia, and I suspect it may have changed a tad. One thing that won’t have changed is that Dubrovnik & Split are beautiful. Another thing that won’t have changed is the people, they were the most wonderful people, you’ll love it. Bon voyage.

  • http://linda.kovacevic.nl linda

    A lot of the restaurants serve grilled meat or seafood and not many dishes you would find in the Dalmatian home. In Split you could try Buffet Fife (Trumbićeva obala 11) which has lots of more home-style dishes. Try the pašticada with gnocchi, a dish usually served on Christmas day.
    In general I would recommend eating Paški sir (sheep cheese from the island Pag) and pršut (similar to parma ham).
    For sweet stuff you could go to one of the Bobis shop. No fancy stuff like you have in Paris but you’ll have an impression what’s eaten in Croatia.
    I’m sure you’ll have a wonderful time! We’re looking forward to our own trip there in 3 weeks :)

  • http://www.niech-zyje-kuchnia.blogspot.com Principessa

    It is really amazing… you are going to have almost the same voyage que moi.. I am also going to split, dubrovnik and korcula in 9 days.. maybe we will met.. who knows,
    regards
    principessa

  • Lizzie

    Kinder surprise gelato in Dubronvik

    Burek, a deliciously greasy warm filo pastry with salty cheese and spinach end-of-the-night type snack. Available at all good bakeries. Yum.

  • Tamar Bains

    You have to eat the ice cream. It is the best I’ve ever had.

  • Kathleen

    I was just in Dubrovnik and Mjlet in June. Here are my recommendations:

    *Cevappi (Croatian sausage)

    *Grilled squid (assuming it is in season)

    *Ice cream is abundant. Try several places. There is one outside of the Pile Gate that has sesame ice cream.

    *Bakeries are a great way to have a quick and inexpensive lunch or breaksfast. (Sit-down lunches take a long time). The salt bread was great. Sorry, I can’t remember which bakery I liked the best. Pastry is cheap; try a lot.

    *Daily markets. There is one in the Old City but the one in the Gruz section (near the ferry port) is bigger and probably less pricey. Dried figs, candied orange peel, and fresh produce to go with your bakery lunch!

    *The restaurant just inside the Pile Gate to the left after you enter. It is in the old convent, I believe.

    *I really enjoyed the variety of local liqueurs. The maraschino is quite nice and different from the Italian version.

    *For shopping, Gallerja Buja has unique jewelry in an affordable range.

    *There are two bars on the outside of the Old City walls: Buja and Buja 2. Fantastic view. A bit difficult to find. Also fun at night.

    If I find more specific restaurant names, I’ll post again.

  • http://maninas.wordpress.com/ Maninas

    Hi Clotilde!

    I’m Croatian! Here are a few suggestions:

    Things to eat:

    Slane sredele – salted sardines – sardines marinated in salt for a month. gorgeous!

    Prsut (prshut) – it’s basically a dalmatian version of prosciutto. good prsut is hard to beat! gorgeous colour, thinly sliced, amazing taste

    Paski sir (pashki sir) – cheese from Pag. Gorgeous, mature, tangy. yum.

    Pasticada (pashtitsada) – try this in split. it’s a type of stew, a festive dish.

    Skami na buzaru (shkampee nah buzharoo) – gorgeous! scampi in a tomato, white wine and garlic sauce.

    grilled fish with swiss chard (blitva)

    Fish in general is very good. Riba in Croatian.

    KONOBAS – Dalmatian-style restaurants. Konoba is a wine cellar, traditionally, and it should be like someone opening their wine cellar to visitors, but more often than not it is a tavern-style restaurant. they range from very basic to overly decorated. Try Fife in Split (gorgeous salted sardines), and Sperun (shperoon).

    brudet – brodetto, fish stew served with polenta. my favourite one is with squid or cuttlefish. dark, thick, lovely!

    the markets are lovely. i’d buy different types of brandy there. In Dalmatia, you get loza (grappa), travarica (with herbs, gorgeous), orahovica (orahovitza. my favourite. it goes really well with chocolate). maraschino (from zadar, my home town) is also gorgeous, pale white, sweet, goes well with fruit.

    grapes will also be gorgeous at the moment, and so will the vineyards. try small grapes from the markets. those that say ‘domace’ (domache). black grapes are sooo sweeet at the moment.

    figs. gorgeous. they also grow in vineyards. :)

    ajvar. red peppers and aubergine relish (i have a a recipe on my blog), eaten with the ubiquitous cevapcici, the nation’s favourite fast food. love it.

    all this makes me very very nostalgic…

    can’t wait to hear your impressions. it’s always interesting to see familiar places through other people’s eyes. you learn more about them, i feel.

    Bon voyage! Or Sretan put!

  • Mauricio

    We just came back from the dalmatian coast. First of all, get water shoes because there are only pebble beaches and lots of sea urchin, which amazingly they do not eat.
    Hvar is beautiful, try Marinero in town. Simple fresh food, and good white wines from Korcula. If you can, take a day excursion to the blue cave and vis island (from atlas tours).
    Mljet has a monastery on an island (island within an island) spectacular.
    Bon voyage,
    Mauricio

  • Ika

    Dalmation Coast – Restaurants I visited last month.

    The style of cooking is essentially Italian, with a lot of risottos and spaghetti dishes. There is good cheese, delicious prosciutto (known as prsut), and delicious fish. The local wine varies from delicious to vinegar.

    DUBROVNIK
    *Pucic Palace – Uzel, Turizam, Dubrovnik, Croatia (00 385 20 326 222; fax: 326 223; http://www.thepucicpalace.com) £££ Expensive but great fod and a lovely setting.

    KORCULA
    *Konoba Marinero: Ulica Marka Andrijica 13 (+385 (0)20 711 170) This is my favorite – daily fresh fish, homemade specialties and the best local wines in the friendly atmosphere of this family-run restaurant. Marinero is situated in the old town of Korcula just off the main square Pijaceta and Zakrjan promenade….It is run by two fisherman brothers who serve some of the freshest of seafood in town. Baby squid is a must have
    *Konoba Adio Mare – Korcula Old Town – Sv. Roka 2 (+385 20 711253) Vaulted restaurant in the old town next to Marco Polo’s house. Long wooden tables and benches, serves meat and seafood. Nice but gets very busy.
    *Restaurant MATE – Putnap (20 mins from Korcula Town) (+385 20 717 109) Really goo – located at the very centre of the village, it specialises in homemade food – cured meats, great pasta and cheese from the family’s land. After a huge appetizer plate loaded with pancetta, sausage, goat cheese, and wild capers, move on to the goat cheese ravioli, and finish off with pastries and juniper or rosemary sorbet. Book ahead.

    HVAR
    *Luna – Petra Hektorovica 5 (+385 21 741 400) luna-hvar@st.hinet.hr / A break from the standard fare and rustic ambience, serving dishes such as smoked salmon, shrimp gazpacho, and beef tenderloin). Located in the center of town, eat on the roof top terrace. Gazpacho is very garlicky but good as is the baby squid.

  • Claudi

    Enjoy and have “Skami na buzaru” (scampi buzara) – best thing ever, love it!

  • Nancy

    I have visited Croatia twice since 2006. LOVE the country and it’s food and people. Everywhere we went in Croatia, the same restaurant was mentioned – - everyone said “it is the best restaurant in Croatia” It is where we had our big dinner splurge (budget!) It is at Mali Ston and is called Kapetenova Kuca. It is right on the waterfront. Fabulous grilled fish, black risotto, and my husband said some of the best raw oysters (grown right out front) that he has ever had.

    Food all along the Dalmatian coast is fabulous. Could eat that style of cooking all the time. You will love beautiful Croatia.

  • http://iambossy.com BOSSY

    Bossy wishes she had some advice, but alas, she’s feeling rather unworldly at the moment. Tips “down the shore” in New Jersey? Bossy is your girl.

  • margaux

    You have to eat some pizza while in Croatia. It really is the best pizza I’ve ever had. Have it with ham and green olives. I went to a ton of places and they were all delicious. Also, I agree with hana, if you can go to Mali Ston, they have fantastic mussels. The restaurant there grows them.

    There’s also a great litte winery on the way from Korcula to Dubrovnik (close to Mali Ston, I believe) that has really good fruit brandies. It’s only sign is a wooden arrow with the word VINO on it, but worth it if you stop. It’s just off the main road.

    You can also buy homemade olive oil on the side of the road, and I got some that was delicious. They’ll let you try it. And all of the fish that I had while there was fantastic. You can see them bringing it in earlier in the day – so fresh! Had two great fish meals, one on Hvar right at the wharf, the other inside the old city in Dubrovnik. Also, go to the hole in the wall a bar just outside the city walls. Beautiful views!

    Croatia is amazing, have a great time!

  • http://bigeeesblog.blogspot.com Bridget

    I found your blog quite by accident but I’m posting a recommendation of a few blogs on this coming sunday and I will be featuring you.
    I’ve enjoyed my visit. I shall return!

  • Angela

    If you arrive early in Dubrovnik resist the temptation and don’t go in to the old city until nightfall. It is magical at night and will take your breath away.

  • anna bruna jurinich

    I was born in Zadar,Croatia but have been living in New York for most of my life. My dream is to have an exhibition of my paintings in the place I was born. I hear Zadar has become an incredible place for art,and food. If you go stop at my cousins restaurant called Marco Polo in the section of the city called Vostarnica.

  • Aisling

    Since you are visiting Dubrovnik I recommend taking a day trip (at least) to Cavtat. Its a short and beautiful boat ride or bus ride and worth it. There are many great places to nibble and get drinks. If you do the walk up to the graveyard and around there is a tiny coffee shop on a lady’s deck as you come back down that has some great views and drinks. And make sure you visit the old city part of Dubrovnik and as you enter the main gate in the first or second building on the right is an ice cream shop that is fantastic! They are a family business and made the best treats!
    I also recommend splitting the pizzas for a lunch. Its inexpensive and really tasty! A different experience than in the US.
    I hope you have a wonderful trip! Don’t forget to walk the wall when the weather is cool and keep an eye out for the little drink stand in the wall!

  • http://chocolateandzucchini.com clotilde

    Thank you so very much for taking the time to share your tips and recommendations — you’ve made me even more excited to go!

  • TY

    I would highly recommend a trip to the Kornati Islands off the coast of Split. Most are uninhabited but some have small family run restaurants serving mainly fresh fish and local produce from the owner’s back garden. Amazing setting and amazing food.

  • http://teacia.blog.hr/ Tea

    Oh my Gosh, I got so excited when I saw this!! I am half from Split and half from Korčula which is amazing!
    In Split you can try LeMonde, which is near my house and very lovely atmosphere, but I ate there once years ago. I have to be honest, but for Split is the best to go to the Market and buy amazing vegetables and fruits. Oh how I miss that here in NY.
    And the fish market in Split! ;)
    Have fun, I can’t wait to hear all about it!

  • kim

    I was on a family holiday in Cavtat (a half hour boat-ride from Dubrovnik) 7 years ago. As a grumpy 17-year old suffering under the heat I didn’t care much for food, but I still recall one thing I really liked: the red onions served in raw slices. Maybe a silly thing to pick, but their taste really hit me, even though I wasn’t remotely interested in food back then.
    Oh, and beware if you’re taking any boatrides, I’ve had some of the worst cases of sea-sickness in my life there…

  • Sarah

    I went to a restaurant in Porec that was recommended by the Lonely Planet in Istria where they served very simply grilled seafood drizzledwith local olive oil and on a big cedar plank. That with some of the local Istrian white wines was divine. Just east as much seafood and olive oil and white wine as you can. I’m jealous.

  • Denise

    I am an American married to a Croat. We go anually and always eat very well, though most of the time privately which is always the best. I will keep it short and too the point!

    Blitva YES
    Pumpkin Seed Oil (bucino ulje) YES
    Maraska Liqueur (from cherries) YES
    (altough it is very sweet)
    Fresh figs YES
    Carob pods from local trees YES
    Octopus cooked in a
    special outdoor oven called
    a “PEKA” with potatoes. YES
    Burek YES (every town has a good
    bakery for this, ask locals)
    Cevapcici YES (Croatian version of
    a hamburger, also ask a local)
    ask for Kajmak with it!
    Sea food almost anywhere YES
    Local Olive Oil YES

    Most importantly go to the local open market and you will see some of the most beautiful produce you have ever seen! The tomatoes are heavenly as well as any of the local fruit. There are also some good smoked cheeses, although compared to french ones they are mild. Good luck! Enjoy!

  • Barbara

    Konoba Terra is an excellent wine cellar/resto in Split. It’s quite romantic, I think. The grilled fish was wonderful: http://www.vinoteka.hr/terra.asp

    Stop in Ston for oysters (you’ll see the beds as you drive into town).

    In Dubrovnik, definitely find the two Buza bars! You’ll see them if you take the walk around the city walls, which is a must at least once or twice.

    Any plans to drive into Mostar? It’s lovley and very interesting, very moving. The food shifts entirely from Adriatic seafood to meaty Balkan.

    Bon voyage!

  • http://suzanneanderson.blogspot.com Suzanne

    You must go to the island of Hvar. It is incredibly beautiful and the seafood is incredible. I spent two weeks there and would gladly go back to live.

  • diana

    I am also from Croatia, lived in the UK for past 18 years. As some of the others rightly state, the food in Croatia is quite basic. But the ingredients are awesome so best is to keep it simple.
    As others recommend, do try AJVAR (pepper relish), CEVAPCICI (spicy mince “bullets” from a grill), simply grilled fish such as SKUSA (mackerel), ORADA or BRANCIN (sea bass) with side order of BLITVA (swiss chard) with potatoes. Get local MASLINOVO ULJE (olive oil) and eat figs from trees if there are some still left when you get there. Croatia figs are beautiful green-yellow variety, unlike the expensive and less-flavorful purple ones we get here in the UK. Also good are deep fried or grilled LIGNJE (calamari). And try Croatian Ice Cafe – this is a tall glass of very strong cold coffee topped with a scoop or two of ice cream and whipped cream – gorgeous.
    Bakeries are very good for filled pastries (sweet or savory) and buns. Have fun

  • Ellie

    My favorite place to eat in Dubrovnik is called Dundo Maroje. It’s a restaurant on one of the slanting streets off the main street, Placa. The street is called “Kovacka.” The octopus salad is the second best thing I ate the entire time there (possibly the third best meal I’ve EVER had). The first was at a tiny, tiny restaurant in Rovinj, in Istria.
    You HAVE TO GO to Dundo Maroje! In addition to the fabulous octopus salad, they have the most amazing complimentary tuna spread as an appetizer. A lot of Dubrovnik restaurants use that tuna spread but Dundo Maroje’s is the best. To be honest you cannot really eat anything bad on the Dalmatian coast. Black risotto is also terrific, as is “skampi” (an unusual type of crustacean), and the pizza is great, especially white pizza with prosciutto if you can find it.
    As for where to go in Dubrovnik, visiting the Franciscan and Dominican cloisters is essential, as is the Museum of the City of Dubrovnik which is in my top five museums ever visited. It is such a beautiful city, have a great time!
    (P.S. Split is great too! But I think a little more intuitive in terms of what to see)

  • Deborah Barocas

    Greetings from New York. Have a blast you guys. Eat, drink and be merry. Looking forward to the details of your trip.

  • http://www.indiatree.com Gretchen G

    Many thanks to Shannon C. for mentioning the family restaurant on the tiny island of St. Klement near Hvar. I had one of the best meals that I can remember there years ago, just before the war that divided Yugoslavia. It was open for both lunch and dinner. I am thrilled to know that is still in business. Besides wonderful food, it was such a beautiful experience eating by lantern light al fresco. Gracious service in a magical setting. I had mullet grilled over Rosemary. The island is wooded and full of wild rosemary, lavender, juniper and thyme. The winds blowing off the islands of Croatia are full of the scent.

  • CJ

    City of Split! Buffet Fife! Local, fresh, fun! The squid all along the coast was tremendous! We loved the dalamtion coast! Ditto to the figs! With you in spirit! CJ

  • verity74

    Croatian for please is MOLIM
    (Moll-im) and thank you is HVALA
    (u-vallah). Just like most people,the Croatian’s really like it if you try to speak a little of their language, even if it’s just “please”!

  • katja

    When in Dubrovnik, try to go to S(h)kola, or S(h)kolica, a wonderfully scruffy eatery just off Stradun in one of the alleys leading uphill, and try the sandwiches with prs(h)ut. Everyone knows the place, or at least they should – it has fed us well so many times.

    The other MUST SEE is the place someone else mentioned earlier: you enter, or should I say exit through the hole in the town wall (zidine) and…well, you will see. To find it, follow the sign saying cold drinks + best view in town (or similar), otherwise ask someone. Best time to go is just before sunset… or go during the day and swim there if you are not afraid of the deep, deep blue sea.

  • Brian

    Oh wow. Corcula is AMAZING. I wish I could remember the name of the restaurant that we ate at. It is a local’s kind of place. Just ask anyone who lives there. It seemed like everyone knew about it. And, it will be cheaper than the tourist places.

  • http://sophik.blogspot.com js

    hi there… my boyfriend and i are in zagreb now and are traveling to split and on to vis in a few weeks.. anyone have any suggestions of places to eat in zagreb or vis!?

  • Anne

    I highly recommend seeing a charming little seaside town called Cavtat, over the mountain from Dubrovnik. On the way, there is a little restaurant called Konavoski Dvori that sits by a river…heaven!

    Have a great trip!

  • Tess

    I lived in Croatia for a year, and while I didn’t get a chance to experience much of the coastal cuisine, it can either be phenomenal or kinda… eh. Heh. Croatia itself is truly marvelous though. Try specialties like rosehip tea or jam, fig products, and Dorina chocolate (all sorts of flavors, and locally produced in Zagreb – yum). Some Balkan specialties that are delicious but not necessarily coastal are sarma (cabbage filled with rice and meat and steamed, served as a stew with bread), cevapi (little meat fingerlings served with raw onion and bread), ajvar (can’t miss! roasted spread of eggplant, peppers and tomato), local yogurt is delicious… They do lots of things well. Croatian palacinke are a lot like crepes, the olive oil is to DIE for, honey is a big staple… Go for the most home-cooked, home-made stuff. I guarantee it’ll usually taste amazing.

  • http://www.sarahwert.com sarah

    I spent two weeks on the island of Vis and elsewhere and totally loved it. We bought fresh calamari and fish from our neighbors and ate pizza constantly. It was actually quite good. Most good restaurants have excellent seafood. I would steer clear of Split. It was not my favorite spot. Dubrovnik was magical, if not overwhelming touristy.

    I hope you have a great trip and eat very well!

  • http://www.sfdiner.blogspot.com Mark

    I have never been to Croatia, but a friend of mine went there on her honeymoon and said that the food wasn’t great. Sort of Med meets bad Italian. I hope you have a great time.

  • http://www.icelandweatherreport.com Alda

    I’m going next week and am so glad I found this! Great recommendations.

  • boba

    Hello

    I am from Sarajevo and love your site. Am regular. Was very happy to hear that you go to Croatia. I lived in DU and I can suggest you to taste there tortu od mjendula(almond tart) torta od skorupa(sour cream tart) and rozata (egge creme with caramel) it is absolutely delicious. As for salty things I san recommend fish fish fish and grilled vegetables. If you ar enot vegetarian I alos recommend roasted young goat meat with patatoes. Abs fabulous. Enjoy and come to Sarajevo. You will love the food.

  • http://justfoodnow.wordpress.com justfoodnow

    The chard, potatoes, black risotto and the squid!

  • http://chezlouloufrance.blogspot.com/ Loulou

    This is wonderful information!
    I’m going to Croatia in the spring and will write down a lot of these recommendations.
    Hope you have a nice trip. Look forward to reading about it when you return.

  • Griff

    The best meal of my life was had on Mjlet … a simple bottle of house white with mussels and linguine pescatore. The sun was setting between two islands in the bay, the tables around were full of happy, chatting people and the food was perfect.

  • http://emmyjean.tumblr.com EJ

    The best meal I had in Croatia was at Marinero in Hvar. The mussels with tomato and garlic are to die for! If you rent a boat and drive around the islands, there is a beach bar on an otherwise uninhabited island between Hvar and Korcula that has spectacular views and crisp, refreshing house white wine. Have a wonderful trip!

  • http://www.tabletalks.de/HomeUK.html Kirsten

    I was thinking of travelling to Croatia next year – and after reading your post, I think, this is a great idea. So, Croatia, I’m coming!!!

  • Maya Dunnell

    If you go anywhere near the West part of Croatia, I would really recommend a visit to the little hill/mountain top village of ‘Motovun’. It’s beautiful, and has a lovely restaurant on the winding lane up to the top, specialising in local truffles. The service was brilliant; all smiles and very speedy. And the food was so good that it persuaded us to visit again on our last night.

  • margot hampleman

    Here is another article about
    Croatia – you can see where my
    mind is today!
    J.

  • Sonja

    Hello,

    Un petit post en français pour changer et surtout parce que c’est plus facile pour moi:
    - A Dubrovnik: pour les restos dans le cher il y a Nautika avec la plus fabuleuse terrasse du coin (voir du monde ;-)) surtout les soirs d’orage. Domino Steak House, si une subite et impérieuse envie de steak vous prenait, le meilleur restau à viande. Un peu plus loin, pas les mêmes plats, un moulin et des truites qui nagent dans des étangs: Konavoski Dvori à Gruda (20-30 km depuis Dubrovnik en allant vers le Monténegro). Dans le même village, moins cher, des eaux de vie (pour garçons) et des liqueurs (pour filles) faites maison: Monkovic.
    Toujours à l’est de Dubrovnik mais un peu plus près (il faut prendre à gauche en arrivant à Zvekovica puis suivre la route qui serpente vers la montagne): Vejski Dol (veau ou agneau sous “peka” – sorte de cloche posée directement sur les braises, la viande est cuite à l’étouffée avec divers légumes (la méthode est applicable aussi à d’autres produits, et notamment au poulpe, mais plus difficile à trouver) ou diverses grillades). Lokanda Peskarija (dans le vieux port à la place de l’ancienne poissonerie – essayez d’y aller tôt, après 21h il y a en général la queue – sorte de slow-fast food (mais pas industriel!) servant des huîtres, calamars, moules, petits poissons frits…).
    Faire un petit détour en fin de soirée par la Cantina Mexicana juste derrière la vieille ville, pas très local certes, mais une des meilleures margaritas que j’ai bu et les deux propriétaires sont très sympa (des copines à moi!). Comme souvenir: les figues séchées, on est à peu près dans la saison, diverses eaux de vie aromatisées aux herbes, et si vous avez de la chance, vous pourrez trouver auprès des vielles femmes de Konavle qui vendent leurs produits maison sur le marché de la vieille ville du fromage (de chèvre ou de vache (il y a des vaches dans les Konavle) marinés dans l’huile d’olive). Plus sucré: les Arancini (écorces d’orange confite), ou les amandes caramlicées (Dubrovacka Kuca, en face du monastère des Dominicains, où l’on peut trouver aussi des savons “naturels” à base d’huiles essentielles de différentes îles, ou à base de lait de chèvre (Saplun)…
    L’huile de grains de courge précédemment citée est effectivement à ne pas rater!mais c’est une spécialité du nord de la Croatie (autour de Zagreb), donc trouvable uniquement dans certains hypermarchés comme le Konzum de Gruz en Dalmatie…
    Dernière chose pour changer des glaces, il faut essayer une petite pâtisserie appelée Dolce Vita (3ème rue à gauche en entrant par la porte de Pile il me semble), pour leurs crêpes fourrées à la vanille avec des griottes.
    - A Peljesac: dans Mali Ston: fruits de mer (huîtres, moules ainsi que d’autres coquillages) “cueillis” dans la baie. Plusieurs restaurants, les plus connus (et les plus chers) étant Taverna Bota et Kapetanova Kuca. Un moins connu mais tout aussi bon se trouve une dizaine de mètres avant d’arriver aux deux sus-cités.
    - A Korcula: pâtisserie Cukarin: gâteaux traditionnels typiques de l’île (on trouve de variantes jamais tout à fait identiques dans d’autres villes ou villages, notamment les Klasuni similaires sans être tout à fait identiques aux Rafioli de Trogir). La propriétaire des lieux se fera un plaisir de vous guider parmi les petits souvenirs sucrés ou alcoolisés locaux… Parmi les restaurants de la vieille ville: Marinero: délicieux, moins surpeuplé qu’Adio Mare.
    Et pour des spécialités vraiment locales avec des produits vraiment locaux, il faut aller dans les petits villages entre Korcula et Vela Luka (suivre les panneaux “seoski turizam” (tourisme rural): là vous mangerez des spécialités introuvables ailleurs (y compris à quelques km!). Je conseillerais celui que je connais le mieux: à Zrnovo (4 km de Korcula) aller au hameau POstrana (le 4ème des 4 composant Zrnovo), chez Stella (c’est visible depuis la route, et supplier pour avoir des Zrnovski Makaruni (pâtes faites maison par les femmes du village avec une sauce à base de bœuf avec des clous de girofle, de la noix de muscade et d’autres ingrédients que je garderai secrets ;-)). Il y a aussi une variété de chou vert local qui se consomme bouilli avec des pommes de terre et du poisson ou de la viande, mais c’est plutôt un plat hivernal.
    Près de Blato, pas mal d’autres restos du même type, qui servent viande, poissons, langoustes suivant la saison et les arrivages. L’huile d’olive est bonne, celle de Vela Luka est la plus répandue, mais c’est la moins prisée des insulaires…
    - A Split, Konoba Varos et Taverna Bota. Les gâteaux de chez Bobis: pas mal, mais plus industriels que ce que l’on peut trouver à Korcula. Allez plutôt qques km plus loin, à Trogir.

    Quant aux Burek, Pita sa sirom, Cevapcici, Punjene pljeskavice, Baklave etc… c’est effectivement très bon, mais ce sont des spécialités bosniaques.

    Si je pense à autre chose je reposterai, en tout cas, bonnes vacances!

  • Joyce

    These recommendations come from a friend’s friend who is Croatian. I hope it’s not too late.

    “We were in Korcula but I could not recommend a particular restaurant. In general Dalmatian food is excellent – Grilled fish (Brancin, Orada), grilled calamari, potatoes (krumpir na leso), Blitva (Swiss Chard with Garlic) are all good. Also make sure to try Plavac red wine (ancestor of Zinfandel that is native to Adriatic).

    Naturally, some Rakija (Brandy) – Slivovitz (Plum Brandy), Loza (Grappa), Medica (Honey Flavored Grappa) and Travarica (Herb Infused brandy).” Davorin

  • John J. Goddard

    Zdravo Clotilde,

    I imagine that you’ve already gone on your trip, and that I’m too late to offer any suggestions. If I’m not, however, you must eat at Kapetanova Kuca in Mali Ston (near Dubrovnik). Have the black risotto (crni rizot).

    Across the channel from Korcula is a town called Viganj. It’s small, and very popular for windsurfing. Konoba Karmela is a fantastic place to eat in Viganj. You can hire a small boat to take you across for very little money.

    In Split, Bufe Fife at the end of Riva is an excellent choice.

    Lots of great food in Omis, south of Split also. If you go on the old road (Magistrala) you’ll go through Omis. Omis is one of the great places to have meals cooked under the peka.

    All told, I’ve spent about eight months in Croatia, and there are little pieces of my heart scattered throughout the country. Next time you go, drop me a line. I’ll be happy to put you in touch with good people and places. And you should really see Zagreb sometime too.

    I’ll be headed back over next year for the wine and olive harvests, when the tourism and traffic quiet down. Then, Dalmatia is beyond magical.

  • Ignatius

    Klug. A famous pastry.

  • Gorana

    I am Croatian… living in Portland, Oregon in US for last couple of years (great food!) and missing all the flavors, sounds and images of Croatian Dalmatian coast described on this pages. I am from Zagreb, but spend all my summers on the coast enjoying simple and good food and amazing nature. However, what I miss the most these early fall days is the smell of roasted chestnuts… warm and tasty in little paper cornets sold by street vendors in my city. I also miss all the chestnut cakes and pures I regulary enjoyed in my favorite pastry shop ‘Vincek’. Sweet memories…

  • Tony F.

    Glad you enjoyed your trip to Croatia…but sorry you missed our favorite little town of Trogir and all their great eateries. Don’t miss Trogir on your next visit. I traced my ancestors back to 1532.
    The Andrijic brothers (builders) The church they built is a tourist stop in Dubrovnik. The brothers were from Korcula, where my father and mother were born.

  • http://link.com Jully

    We were staying at Maria’s Place on Island Korcula. Restaurants everywhere!

    Maria is lovely, and the location is amazing – right in the centre yet on a quiet street away from the tourists. Air-con is a necessity, and the big, modern room was very comfortable.

    Booking site we use: hostelworld.com

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